Dodgeb4ya

Reading too hot for me... A normal reading would be just beyond the "E". If you can or want to...test the gauge with accurately heated water say to 180 and also 212 so you know what the gauge reads at those water temps using a small heated pan/ can of water. I have always done that on questionable temp gauges. Pulling the bulb out of the head might be easy and come right out or the core plug above it will need to be removed enabling the temp bulb to be wedged out. All this to be sure of a accurate gauge.

I prefer to have two of everything. Good to have a back up ya know.

The flywheel should have a recess for the half cut head pflywheel bolts. Is the rear seal a rope type or steel plates with molded rubber lip?

Well at least it's running and you know what's left to finish up!

Whoopsie... Now ya gotta pull the main cap.

The contacts in now days made China points are made with fusible lead contacts.

54 would be short.

Those are great Mr Tech filmstrip snips! Thanks for posting those.?

Well that is certainly some great bright lighting under lift lighting...I like that super looks easy to install bright strip lighting. I'm going to duplicate doing the same on my back lift.?

Another one off 1950 Crown Imperial. They sure are ugly.

I've never seen a six door? 1950 Chrysler Crown Imperial 8 passenger sedan....145" WB straight eight cylinder car. It's not shown in the "70 years of Chrysler" book. Certainly custom built because of the six doors..maybe an Airporter car. I'd like to see a better side view of it. I guess it looks to have six doors. The Crown Imperial 8 passenger and Limousine had odd long length side doors and are extremely low production numbers...about 400 cars. They all had for wheel disc brakes too. Ausco Lambert disc brakes.

Now others are concerned about this car...https://forums.aaca.org/topic/369294-help-save-a-canadian-model-a-ar-roadster-barn-find/

Only one plug on 1946 and later couplings....a fill plug... .....Except FTD converters..they do have the two plugs as they can be drained for service.

If the frame has the two front "out rigger" motor mount brackets for the Hemi it will almost be a bolt in. Otherwise you will have to weld in those two front mounts. The rear cross member should be a factory bolt in unit. Steering gear pitman arm as I recall is shaped different between the 265 and the 331 Hemi. Radiator is bigger to of course. Shouldn't be a huge hassle. Small bits and pieces some times an irritant.

I have burned out on all the Loyd and Harry U-Toobers.... They all pitch the same stuff, want you to be their friend, subscribe and like them....oh ...and buy their t-shirts, coffee mugs and other U-Toober wares. Naw...done with most of that.

Oil pressure gauge tells all. But also think of amount of oil flow volume....and on and on the oil story goes?

On our old MoPars wider clearance or loose worn bearings... worn cylinder walls...I would use a some what thicker oil. New engine tight bearings, cylinder walls thinner oils.. say 5/30 over 10/30. The temperature range when you drive the car sets the type of oil to use as does the type of driving city/freeway etc. Try out a couple different types/weights of oil including single weight 30. Drive the old vehicle for a week month what ever. Watch that oil gauge like a hawk. IMO ..Use the oil that keeps the oil gauge reading the highest after a long hot drive at idle. Modern cars ....this doesn't count. Only use exactly what's stated on the oil filler cap or owners manual. A must on newer cars.

Another set of Goofball youtubers... 9" rear end ...oh yeah

He is very knowledgeable...but he missed the M-4 trans and FD coupling and also the later Fluid Torque Drive torque converter. AFAIK there never was a M-3 coupling. Cannot fault him at all....way too many versions of FD's and transmission combo's by mother MoPar.

1941-1942 DeSoto/ Chrysler were the model M-4 transmission...

An original compressed distributor cork seal ring after being installed ...

The original seal was a cork O-ring... You can use a rubber O-ring of the correct OD and ID. Measure the OD of the distributor base housing shaft and block bore diameter. Then find a supplier or parts store with knowledgable sales staff to help you.

Talking oil is like talking politics....good luck! If you want more...."Bob is the Oil Guy" Endless oil talk...............

That belongs in a MoPar flathead engine museum?

Make sure the carb to is perfectly flat. The idle air bleed hole goes up into the carb top air horn. The top air horn gasket needs to seal tight around the idle air bleed hole and not let outside or venturi air be drawn into that hole. Also the carb top has the tiny metered idle air bleed hole in it and has to be clear of blockage. This might take care of you non adjustable idle mixture.