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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. Dodgeb4ya
    1955-57 T-Birds used a small booster like the one above. I used one in my 52 Dodge PU.
  2. Dodgeb4ya
    Big city...BIG prices....sucks as our city used to be affordable on most everything.☹
  3. Dodgeb4ya
    That would be $1500.00 or more here in the Seattle area.
  4. Dodgeb4ya
    It's .0185"...thick. Some pics with dimensions...
  5. Dodgeb4ya
    I'll measure one later today..
  6. Dodgeb4ya
    Fast...fun and easy!
  7. Dodgeb4ya
    The 1946-48 Chrysler eight cars handle much much better than the 1949-50 Chrysler eight cylinder cars....not sure why. I have both and have had a few others.
  8. Dodgeb4ya
    Only used washer with studs and nuts. Though don't think it's a bad idea with replacement modern bolts..
  9. Dodgeb4ya
    Also in the early to mid 60's a aluminum tie strap was used on some of the MoPar cars inner fender panel double heater hoses.
  10. Dodgeb4ya
    I have had my 48 convert to 80 also. 70 is a smooth easy speed for it... Reaching 80 was no problem. The 70 year old man who owned it before me said he drove it from Seattle to Reno at speeds up to 80....said that was easy for the car. These flathead eights can handle teasonably high speeds on long trips. 3.36 rear end ratio with 8.20 X 15 tires.
  11. Dodgeb4ya
    Yes you can step on the clutch too. The two lower factory studs will hold the trans in perfect alignment ready to push in. Possibly the disc moved when you pulled the trans out this last time. You might first try inserting your old input shaft to be sure it goes in all the way before attempting installing the trans again. As for the stud...a good hardware or Fastenal store should have the correct stud. But...you don't have to use it...I would. I was just looking at that lower housing today with those two studs on a straight 8 Chrysler.
  12. Dodgeb4ya
    Wiggle,jiggle,turn brake drum back and forth with trans in gear ...push in hard. It will go in the last inch. Do you have the two lower 3" studs in?
  13. Dodgeb4ya
    Mikey ....AKA Moparnopro is ruthless in selling, copying and reproducing parts.
  14. Dodgeb4ya
    Motor mounts probably rotten.. Motor shifted.... Needs shifter rod adjustment as per what "Mr Tech" says... As already noted above by MarcDesoto.
  15. Dodgeb4ya
    I just got a notice that I received a "Newbe" award. I have got 1 of 14 ranks!? I am very pleased...I'm making progress.
  16. Dodgeb4ya
    I think I would have converted it to good old standard four wheel drum brakes!?
  17. Dodgeb4ya
    The spacer is .186" thick.
  18. Dodgeb4ya
    They were commonly found 1949 and later MoPars on the heater control cables and 6 volt feed wire tying them together. Also to be found in NOS heater packages and control packages too. I have seen then in cars thru 1956.
  19. Dodgeb4ya
    This is the correct spacer item and what to use to space out the fan and pulley.
  20. Dodgeb4ya
    Maybe you tightened up the gearshift adjuster rod nuts too tight... That's why difficulty shifting into R/1st.
  21. Dodgeb4ya
    The original MoPar post war tie straps were made out of aluminum strap....
  22. Dodgeb4ya
    I wish I could be there to help you. I would have that nut off in 20 minutes with NO heat.
  23. Dodgeb4ya
    You don't need heat on that crank bolt.. Use the right tools and procedures.
  24. Dodgeb4ya
    Buy a new battery too as I agree...battery that's been dead for a year....turn it in buy a new one...then check charging system if needed.
  25. Dodgeb4ya
    Jumper wire "BAT" to "ARM" terminals on regulator for just a second. This to polarize generator...probably won't fix charging problem. Test the generator itself for good output by full fielding it.
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