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Jeff Balazs

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Jeff Balazs last won the day on February 27

Jeff Balazs had the most liked content!

About Jeff Balazs

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor
  • Birthday 02/26/1955

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  • Website URL
    http://www.heartofoakworkshop.com
  • Occupation
    Woodworker

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    52 B3C daily driver

Converted

  • Location
    Coto de Caza, Ca.
  • Interests
    Fishing & vintage Brit Bikes

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  1. Roland; IMO you want to just remove and blank off the old mechanical pump altogether. Other wise it can become a potential source of fuel getting into the engine sump. Not good! Best thing is to put a regulator in. Yes on the safety switch. Ground the pump to the frame. Hth, Jeff
  2. The optional 2 speed electric wipers that I have on my truck have worked extremely well. Pretty sure they can be found on Ebay from time to time. I don't think installing them is that difficult either..... Jeff
  3. Hey Tim; I do understand what you are saying here. What I ended up with does insert fully into the opening and with the outer washer flush to the block. I tried at first to use the 1 5/8" size plug but you cant get these far enough into the block. So I tried 1 1/2" plugs. I ended up using a stone on drill motor and cleaned up the inner recess and then put a slight taper on the rubber plug. A couple of passes and I ended up with a very snug fit. Tightened them up and I feel very good about it. I then pressure tested it for an hour or so. Honestly I am pretty confident in this. As I mentioned one big plus with this is that it will be very easy to flush the block. If upon inspection these plugs do show any sign of deterioration they can easily be replaced.. Jeff
  4. Keeping one of these almost 70 year old trucks in daily service sometimes requires creative solutions. One of the locations had some metal loss at the bottom of the recess in the block. I tried using the correct item which held for a few days and then fell out just as I was leaving work one day. I suppose I could have done a metal repair with epoxy but I found these expandable plugs and with a little lathe work got a really good fit. Held 12# of pressure and I am not using a pressure cap so I am totally comfortable with these in place. As to how long they will be in service? I plan on draining the system about once a year so if they look bad I will replace with new. They are super easy to remove and replace......unlike the standard item. Jeff
  5. I built my truck several years ago now. I am fairly certain my WDT was one of the worst ones ever. I have attached photos.... The PO must have left water in the poor thing and then parked for around 30 years. I figure it sat there doing its thing until the radiator rotted. To say I removed a mountain of scale from this engine is not an over statement.Interestingly I did not have to rebuild the engine to get it back on the road. That had been done at some point I suppose shortly before the truck went into a long hibernation. It still runs great and does not smoke or burn oil. I drive it daily. Jeff
  6. Who said anything about sand? Just scale etc.... The lower two soft plugs had been weeping slightly the last few months. As I suspected there was a fair amount of scale behind them. These blocks are extremely difficult to flush stuff out of. Those two plugs are in the lowest spot on the water jackets so present the ideal collection location. When I built this truck I spent a lot of time flushing and fishing junk out of the water jackets. It has since been flushed a few times but never with these soft plugs out. But I have put more the 25k miles on it. So this time I pulled them and replaced them with expandable rubber plugs. From here on out it will be much easier to get and keep the cooling system clean. Jeff
  7. So in keeping with the spirit of things on Saturday I pulled a couple of weeping soft plugs and flushed the block. Nothing worth taking pictures.....but needed all the same. Good for another 5 years. 😀 Jeff
  8. Keep at it Roland. Sounds like you are getting it narrowed down. Fwiw I am not too keen on running with an original style pump and this stuff that passes for gasoline these days. As I was building my truck I decided to ditch the old style pump and install a big Carter rotary style pump back at the tank. I installed a large canister type pre-filter ahead of this pump and another just ahead of the Carb. This has functioned well for me in daily use for 5 plus years. Some might consider this overkill but I feel it was a prudent thing to do. Also I dose every other tank full with MMO. Jeff
  9. Thanks for the info. I think this will work just fine for what I want to do. Jeff
  10. Thanks for the info. That is the sort of thing I am after. I want to get it off the engine and perhaps mounted on the fire wall or fender. Are those flex lines you have on it? The oil lines on the filter I have were hard lines and are it the way when removing the starter or soft plugs. I want to eliminate this situation and make other things easier to get to. Jeff
  11. Hi Gang; I have been running the remote oil filter that came with my truck for 5 years. It is the type that takes the Baldwin sock type element. It is hung on the side of the block and shares one mounting hole with the spark plug loom. I would like to upgrade to something easier to service preferably with a spin on canister and mount it on the fire wall. Anybody out there done something like this and have any feedback? Thanks in advance, Jeff
  12. I would like to comment on this installation. First off it looks like you did a first class job on it. Bravo! As far as adjustments go I think what you did is just fine. In reality you may make a few adjustments early on to get the correct balance in your braking system. But once you have got it where you want it you won't actually need to touch it. I have had my truck in daily use for over 5 years now and have not had to make any further adjustments. Of course I don't race it....but it has been used more than most trucks here. Hth, Jeff
  13. You may also want to do a careful check on the condition of your distributor cap and rotor. Another thing to check is the ignition switch itself. They contacts and wire connections can get dirt and moisture in them and this could cause problems. Doesn't hurt to clean and spray them with WD40 once in a while. I am not saying that you have an ignition related problem........just suggesting possibilities that can be eliminated. I suspect the gas you have may have actually gone bad. It happens. If that is the problem no amount of tinkering will solve the problem. Jeff
  14. When you originally installed the Pertronix module did you also install one of their matched coils at the time? Or were you running it with an original ignition system coil? Doesn't sound like a typical ignition module failure....but I suppose it is possible? You might consider rigging a temporary fuel supply with fresh fuel before you go much further. It is possible that the quality of the fuel it is getting may be causing this. Hth, Jeff
  15. I will check it over when I get time. Thing is it turned the engine over that way from the time It got back from the rebuilder. The starter that is in it now was rebuilt in the same shop and the same time. Night and day difference in how each turned over. That was the point I was trying to make. Jeff
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