Dodgeb4ya

Here's how I found the king pin set for a WH series truck... That set# 1243609 fits other series trucks too..

Watch the damper ring rubber break loose.... Pull the pan wedge a block of 2x4 crankshaft to block ...unscrew the bolt. Otherwise get on craigslist... Look for a mobile mechanic to drop by and remove the bolt with a impact gun.. Or buy yourself a Milwaukee 1/2" battery powered M18 impact gun. Give yourself a Christmas gift you can use...a lot. Make your hobby projects easier with less stress. Working on old cars causes the need of buying more tools. A good thing.

Most likely a large threaded fine thread puller will be needed to remove the hub. Lube your threaded puller shaft and end point of it too.

Another couple more C series front spring hangar pics... I have never completely understood the model designations of C series trucks...3U, 3A The C1 thru C3 book is at times lacking... trucks...

Ok...here goes it goes to my pic limit ... Evidently you need corner glasses! Picture will disappear in 48 hours?

This out of a 1955-56 C series DT parts book... Shows front spring brackets...

So you did a bunch of work on the car...clutch job, ring gear etc years ago and never ran it ...? Well now you do have a new ring gear on the coupling...done right, no vibration... you are golden. You just will not know for sure till you drive it in the future. I saw on another site you asked about the pressure plate adjustment and a guy recommended you check/replace the ring gear and replace the clutch pressure plate and surface the flywheel (driven plate). Trini is very knowledgeable....not too much on Fluid Drive couplings though. That driven plate removal and install is a little tricky to perform so as not to damage the bellows seal and carbon ring. Special tools were made to pull the plate off. Sure you can do it with modern tools...but ya gotta be real careful...and the FD coupling needs to be removed to do this work with out the Miller tools. Careless service work on a FD coupling will turn into a very costly mistake. I would just crocus cloth the driven plate as they normally do not see wear/ heat spots and cracks like a regular clutch set up. FD couplings generally are easy on clutches.

Why do you need to do that now? Was the starter grinding upon engagement when you last ran the car many years ago? If it ain't broke do not fix it. They are "welded on"....not simple as most ring gear flip it and run jobs. The shop manual does explain the procedure including be careful of the welds....I would leave that coupling alone.

Wish I knew of a easy safe way to separate those three piece eight manifolds...blue tip or wedging is kinda dangerous.

You could try adjusting those adjusting nuts....but many road tests later...a big hassle I would think. Or send it out to......Tennessee clutch.. Or to a local clutch rebuilder.

He sure messed up that clutch cover. It will either have to set up by a clutch builder or get another one to make sure it is right.

AMS obsolete has it as does Deception Pass Motor Parts. The kit Brent shows on Ebay will most likely be the absolute best price.. Too bad you cannot snag that.

If your truck is a WH... King pin set # is 1243609. Pin diameter is 1.130" X 7.250" long Shouldn't be too difficult to find.

That clutch has low miles on it.

Great info!

The factory turn buckle rod castellated nut is a 3/8" X 24. The bolt can be hand drilled....center punch it and using a very sharp drill bit do it. Otherwise find someone to do it. Really though you can do it. Practice on another bolt.

I would think a 3/8" X 24 castellated nut should be available in your local area. As mentioned shorten a bolt and drill it.

Where in the world did you find that old picture of me Merle?? That was uncle Lyle's KB7 Cornbinder!

I have used Acme Headliners...great OE headliners. Been around for years and years. Used to be in LA...don't know if they have moved..been sold or what though. They used to be wholesale only. No retail sales.

Brent...I'd probably break all my front teeth out spinning the nuts off with that big bad boy!?

When I always drove my 2-1/2 ton Dodge I always carried a bottle jack, the dedicated two piece lug nut socket wrench, and 5' pipe plus a couple wood blocks. I never had or used a torque wrench of that size. I couldn't afford or need one either. I always mounted and de-mounted all my 20" tires...for me it was fun! The 5' pipe on the tire tool bar always broke them loose and got them plenty tight too. Does outer hex and inner square. Now days I use a 1" impact gun to loosen.? A pic showing the typical on the r road back in the day real man tools...ha ha You had to use some kind of support for the lug wrench tool otherwise you couldn't lay into it without the set up falling to the ground and you too.

I do mine at 450....but mine is a 4 ton 10 lugger. Brent and wallytoo stated out of their owners booklet 375-425 lbs. Pick your number any will be fine I think.

I think on most of these hardly driven lightly loaded trucks 400 ft lbs+ would be just fine?

Yep .....

I have seen a couple P23 cars in the past with the 1953-54 style ignition switch in them.... Most likely reason...the armored cable switch is not easily serviced if the lead out of the cable shorts to ground. So for over 40 years replacement armored switches have been near impossible to buy new...the 53-54 switches as easy to find as a small block Chevy 350. Easy common replacement used in a 1949-52 MoPar. 1949-1952 car firewalls have a extra 1-1/2" hole specific for the armor cable and grommet.