Dodgeb4ya

I put a R10 in a 1952 panel back in the early 80's. Worked wonderful. Drove it all over Washington state. It was tedious..lots of difficult linkage fab, driveshaft, e-brake work. Trans to bell housing problems. A tough one to do but can be done. I don't remember all of it sorry to say.

Passenger had a sore head...

Yep.....people love to climb all over Dodge trucks.. I have a Dodge truck service bulletin on the 2-3/4 to 3-1/2 ton trucks that do have interference of the hood to overflow tube.

This^^^^^^^^! Possibly cam lobe severely worn , doubt it or back to pump/arm.

That long screw to drill out..

You can slip the clutch when accelerating from a dead stop...I do it at times with out just dumping the clutch. You can accelerate from a dead stop faster when needed by properly slipping the clutch. The FD clutch discs are not that delicate is all I'm saying.

I've never been able to wear the clutches out in my 1948/50 Chryslers over 40+ years slipping the clutches in them.

You really want that 25" "Spitfire" Chrysler engine in the if it's the 1952-54 Chrysler 265 ci. engine. Pull the 7/16" hex plug over cyl. #6 to check for a piston stroke of 4-3/4". Just drop a 12" length of straight coat hanger wire down the plug hole, rotate the crank 360 degree's , measure the movement of the wire. This is the only positive way to know which ci. engine your checking out for sure. C52/C53/C54-XXXXX.....is generally the 265 engine #. The 265's have more than enough power to move a P15 along. A difficult engine to find these days. The DeSoto and Chrysler 236/251's are common and don't match up in power to the 265 engine. But even they are a big improvement to the 218/230 23" engine. Don Coatney's P15 has the later DeSoto 251 engine in it.

Exactly...

1949 was the first year of the M-6 ....1949 to early 1950 used an external brake band. Mid 1950 used internal brake shoes and drum for the E-Brake. Late 1950 to 53 had other minor misc changes too.

A DeSoto M-6 trans ...late 1950 to 1953

You need more lighting load...connect the four t/s lights.

It's a late 1950-1953 Dodge, DeSoto or Chrysler M-6 because of the internal shoe E-brake. The date of manufacture and model of car can be found stamped into the case next to the shift cover. I could tell you make of car by looking at the end of the E-brake drum.

Yes I read your post and understood it.🙂

Many 1946-49 MoPars and even earlier cars used both short and long lined shoes as original. On these fixed anchor Lockheed non energized brakes the short lining was placed on the rear....long lining to the front. Replacement linings these days are mostly all the same longer linings on all the shoes.

I have seen many of the modern red ,amber, green, light high tech chargers fail to charge wet cell batterys properly. Good old transformer chargers always charge typical wet cell batterys fully... I have a large roll around but my favorite chargers are the old common 10 amp chargers. For say a group 2 6 volt battery that's down to 5.8-6.0 volts...I will charge it over night. Never let them get more than slightly warm. I have seen so many cudtomers use the modern chargers and call me saying the battery has been fully charged...they need a stsrter or switch etc....nope they need the battery to be charged with a good battery charger....6.6 volts will show a good full charge just sitting battery. A 6 volt battery now days generally is done after four years. Old Batterys can fail instantly during attempted starting....a cell connector in the battery will open, sometimes causing the battery to explode...usually an old sulfated battery. Battery tenders....naw not for me. Have never needed them. I just occaisionally do volt readings on my old car battery's. Tells me all I need to know.

I buy bulk of ebay...have my shop riveter grinder machine..

There are guys selling NOS original bulk asbestos lining by thickness, width and by the length. Also if lucky you can find the actual original axle lining sets(kits) with the direct fit linings...rivit on style...type I use. I have also found NOS MoPar linings.

Most of the std 1-1/2 "F" model trucks don't use the booster at all. I now only install/reline my MoPar cars and trucks with old stock deadly asbestos brake linings that actually work and stop properly unlike the modern no stop linings mandated today .. IMO not suitable for brake material on old style brake drums....that can grab, pull hard to the right and really don't safely and quickly slow the drum brake vehicles safely.

There is a model/serial# on the drivers door hinge piller... That looks like a nice 1-1/2 truck with 14-1/2" front brakes...16" rear brakes. Might have a frame mounted booster too. Factory -properly rebuilt brakes will work way better than add on disc brakes. There are no disc kits for your truck. Getting the booster rebuilt is the hard part... Good luck with your new toy!

Screws are probably 10/32's

Battery volt reading needs to be 6.6 volts for a fully charged battery. While cranking voltage should not drop much if any below 5.00 volts. Get these readings before doing anything. The engine is fine.. I'm sure of that.

That 51-53 wiper motor is basically a 1949-52 Dodge,DeSoto and Chrysler wiper motor. The truck wiper motor requires a different mounting bracket and links. The electric wiper motors on B1/2 trucks same situation but use a 1946-48 DeSoto and Chrysler wiper motor mounted with a truck bracket and truck only linkages.

MoPar flathead .433" sodium exhaust valve to guide clearance's are spec'd at .003"-.005". On a Chrysler marine engine like the Royal or Majestic they run under heavy load... I'd be at the higher end of spec.

O'Reilly's has the B&B kits too...1+year ago about $40.00.. Have bought three of them...same kits as all the other vendors...no FD anti-stall plunger though.