Dodgeb4ya

Shouldn't weld on the frame flanges. They will start cracking.

Bernbaum and others are selling a modern industrial fluid drive coupling reseal kit...eliminates the graphite seal ring...substitutes a hardened steel seal ring as used in dozer rollers and misc. heavy equipment. Also a sleeve instead of the copper bellows seal. Similar design to late the 1950 and later fluid drive couplings used in MoPar cars. Should work fine. The kit will not be easy to install unless someone has experience and good tooling. If the FD inner hub sealing surface is damaged (pitted, worn) the re-seal kit won't fix the leak. Then the FD coupling will have to be replaced or cut open for maching work and a front bearing.$$$$ Balancing of cut open and re-welded FD's can be a huge vibration problem. Sadly there are not many shops left who do this repair job with 100% compentence. But first...be 100% sure the FD coupling is leaking between the clutch driven plate and the coupling housing...not the rear main seal. Usually these couplngs start leaking because of a cracked carbon seal ring and or crack in the copper bellows.

218 ci...Dropped forged,high carbon steel...7 counter weights 71-1/2 lbs. Rods are forged too... 230 ci. Same but crank 75-1/2 lbs.

The motor or cables are most likely the issue. Cables...good luck.

The aluminum style oil filters started in 1949 on the Chrysler cars. I have seen them on truck and industrial engines too. Boy those pictures look cold! Spring is here...the warm up is starting...

MoPar 1138119 is the part number for the two square profile round O-Rings. I have used typical round rings too with careful measuring to be sure of proper compression and filling the recess. Not too little and not too much. Quad rings would be a probably better choice if no factory ring seals can be located. Gasket should be fine too... I've never seen one though on the 251/265 engines though.

You install the arm one slot wrong...you'll figure it out pretty quick🤣

It's splined .... can go on in four different positions. There are four wide machined indexing slots.

Oh oh! It won't be $10,000..

Run it....it will be fine..the crack ..probably since the block was cast.

I see a lot of loose carbon by the exhaust valve on #3... Carbon could be stuck on the valve seat/face.

# 3 and 4 cylinder exhaust ports are rusty... As mentioned compression test required ...all cylinder readings need to be close in psi and preferably top out 90-100 lbs or even better if higher. These engines can even run smooth if all cylinders are at 70lbs! Won't have full horse power as new though. Possibly some valves not seating 100% because of rust and or burnt valve and seats. On old tired engines it's common to see top compression rings broken too.

A picture of that ground wire in a 1951 4 tonner..using a ring eyelet terminal as original..fastened with a phillips head screw. The hot wire and ground are located the same in two of my other trucks as from new. No J-clip being used.

That's such a great original truck! Always ready to work too..

The extended lip faces the crank gear. If there is a spring in the seal that spring and open part of seal should always face the oil side of crankcase/ crank gear. Make sure the timing cover is not damaged/bent from other seal install or removals in the past. Properly support the T-cover when installing the new seal. Lube the seal lip and apply a small amount of sealer on the OD of seal before installing seal. Use the proper diameter driver to install slowly and carefully.

Get the car off the stands and drive it before thinking something is wrong because it won't go into OD with the handle pushed in. It's hard sometimes to get into OD on jack stands as you have to quickly rev the engine in 3rd and let off really quick to attempt a OD engagement. Might or might not go into OD. The control pawl won't engage into the sun gear easily when up on the stands. Get the car out on the road for a proper trans test.

I put a R10 in a 1952 panel back in the early 80's. Worked wonderful. Drove it all over Washington state. It was tedious..lots of difficult linkage fab, driveshaft, e-brake work. Trans to bell housing problems. A tough one to do but can be done. I don't remember all of it sorry to say.

Passenger had a sore head...

Yep.....people love to climb all over Dodge trucks.. I have a Dodge truck service bulletin on the 2-3/4 to 3-1/2 ton trucks that do have interference of the hood to overflow tube.

This^^^^^^^^! Possibly cam lobe severely worn , doubt it or back to pump/arm.

That long screw to drill out..

You can slip the clutch when accelerating from a dead stop...I do it at times with out just dumping the clutch. You can accelerate from a dead stop faster when needed by properly slipping the clutch. The FD clutch discs are not that delicate is all I'm saying.

I've never been able to wear the clutches out in my 1948/50 Chryslers over 40+ years slipping the clutches in them.

You really want that 25" "Spitfire" Chrysler engine in the if it's the 1952-54 Chrysler 265 ci. engine. Pull the 7/16" hex plug over cyl. #6 to check for a piston stroke of 4-3/4". Just drop a 12" length of straight coat hanger wire down the plug hole, rotate the crank 360 degree's , measure the movement of the wire. This is the only positive way to know which ci. engine your checking out for sure. C52/C53/C54-XXXXX.....is generally the 265 engine #. The 265's have more than enough power to move a P15 along. A difficult engine to find these days. The DeSoto and Chrysler 236/251's are common and don't match up in power to the 265 engine. But even they are a big improvement to the 218/230 23" engine. Don Coatney's P15 has the later DeSoto 251 engine in it.

Exactly...