Dodgeb4ya

Some extra oil consumption info... Correct type of oil and break in procedure to enable rings to wear into cylinder walls is needed to prevent oil consumption on sawa new engine. Are the rings chrome or cast iron? Chrome rings take more time to wear in. Break in procedure generally requires a non detergent type oil for ring break in...no slippery synthetic oil... no long idling. Start the engine and run it at different speeds for the first hour. When driving a new engine brief full throttle say up to 45 mph then coasting down to 20mph several times to twist the rings. This helps promote ring seating. New rings contaminated with engine assembly lube will not seal up as the lube is so slick. This can happen with a newly assembled engine on a stand sitting for a day or more, cylinders pointed down and using assembly lube not paste on all the crank journals and bearings. The slippery lube runs down into the cylinders and rings. The rings will never seal up 100%... Valve guides on a MoPar inline flathead are generally not a cause of excessive oil consumption IMO. Proper guide and orientation install is critical on both intake and exhaust. OHV engines require tight guides and proper stem seals most certainly. JMO?

The IND5/5A engine can be either a 218 or 230 USA engine. Produced 1940 to 1955. Uses the 23" long head. The 218 = bore 3.250".....stroke 4.375" The 230 = bore 3.250......stroke 4.625" This information is out of the master Federal Mogul parts/specs and applications books. I cannot find any MoPar flathead back to the 30's with a 3.62" stroke. A very short stroke for sure. Not sure about that short stroke#.

It might be the door opener that's failing. If the lease doesn't say the renter is to maintain it call the landlord.

Don't take on too much initially. Don't disassemble the car more than necessary unless you have done this type of work before. If the engine is the main project get that done now completely and no more. Do that then have fun driving your new ride then decide on doing new projects on the car. As for valve guides yes the machine shop needs to properly replace them.

Thanks for the information. I do though have a very good commercial type USA manufactured rental hoist. I have used it on many many jobs over the years. Sixes...straight eights and Hemi's and others including............ A Yugo.? A straight "8" being pulled from a 50 T&C. No dog house or hood removal necessary.

Seems now days engine hoists are 2/3 the size of the older hoists. Probably sized for Honda/Toyota engines. That might be the reason for having to disassemble the dog house.

I have always left the clip on and just used a good old school Bluebird engine hoist with a tilt bar on all the 30's 40's 50's MoPars...fast and easy.

I had a 52 Saratoga too. A six cylinder Windsor short WB chassis with the 331Hemi. With the Fluid Torque Drive torque converter a real off the line screamer!?

The hole is about 1/8"...

I cannot answer that question. I just assembled one of those six bolt dampers. I always pick punch them before removal for quick re-assembly.

Either turn the six damper bolt heads slightly for more possible socket clearance or use a thinner socket.

BTW...That drain plug recess is is a 5/16" square. That plug can be tight. Using a small amount of course valve grinding compound on the item to be removed will make sure the removal tool including screw driver blades will not slip.

Group "1" batteries are great for the little Voltswagon Beetles.... For a MoPar flathead...it will do the job just enough. A group "2" battery will give piece of mind with extra cranking power. Needed when a case of vapor lock occurs or a similar situation happens. IMO they last longer too. Optima's are great powerful batteries...ugly but lots of starting power. You can buy a proper looking battery box to put it in if you like....then you cannot tell it from a wet cell battery.

Not the right thing to do. Hundreds of thousands of hour of factory testing and today's people know more? Doubt it.

Burn bomb does it again. Stupid.

I thought it was "Sloth"grease that stinks..?

Make sure the OD shift cable operates and is in the correct OD engagement position. Also check that the transmission and OD part of the transmission are full of oil. If the oil level in the OD section gets too low the sun and planet gears sieze up and prevent the overdrive operation. That transmission if original type would be a centrifugal engagement type.... R6?

One ton drums are kinda wimpy! So are the ring and pinions... Parts...tough to find.

Just remember though..I know nothing of Canadian manufacture...?

The original 1948 Dodge engine is a 230 ci compared to the smaller 1949 218 ci. Plymouth engine... Your 1949 Pymouth engine must have a eight bolt crankshaft for the Dodge Fluid Drive coupling which needs a eight bolt crankshaft. ....so most likely your Plymouth engine is already the longer stroke 230! A stock 1949 Plymouth 218 engine has four bolt crankshaft flange and a 4-3/8" stroke crank. Plymouth's don't have the FD coupling, just a four bolt flywheel and 3 speed trans. The Dodge uses the FD coupling and 3 speed trans. The Dodge 230 engine has a 4-5/8" stroke and eight bolt flange. When you rebuild the engine this info is good to know.?

The speedometer head is probably the cause of the squealing...there is a 3/4" long tube with a screw driver slot in it. Unscrew it and you will find a wick in it to lube with.. Hopefully the fine oil will fix the issue. The cable should be lubed too if not already.

Do you know that the filter is clear and not already partially plugged up? They are tough to clean up for 100% flow if not impossible.

NGLI grease #00 and or 000 is not too thick or too thin... 600W will leak out over a few months on some boxes. Tried it...ended up doing a costly box rebuild and machine work on a C2 box. It has not leaked anymore. That's the right fix.?

Only the one spring clip is used.

Make sure they deal with the Oilite disc filter. Otherwise they will seal it up too.