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Thanks Todd and wldavis3! I got a new job on Saturday. Vic at Vic's Dodge Garage hired me to do his Dodge speedo's and gauges. No more messing with e-Bay!!!!!!!!!!

Mom with Roger Dodger..

You came dangerously close to this....... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrolock Remove the head clean out the bores there is NO other way to do this, inspect everything, rotate the assy, those other pistons are not stuck.... if they were the other 2 would not rotate and spew.

Paul's motto: In Rust I Trust!

I got a T112 serial numbered engine along with my truck, that is supposed to be the original motor. I'm working on getting a build card from Chrysler that will include the engine serial number. I've removed the head (one broken bolt) and the manifolds previously. Today I pulled off the timing cover, and the wife and I did a lot of scrapping of "stuff" from the exterior. Actually she did most of that today, which surprised me greatly. I think she's really getting into having an old truck. We did take another drive today before starting Anyway the reason I took the timing chain off was to see if the crank would turn. To my delight, without much effort at all it did. I've been squirting WD40 into the bores since I pulled the head. The bores measure 3.25 without much ridge at all. Maybe .010! With the factory silver paint and the bore I'm starting to think that this is a factory motor, without too many miles. The size makes it a 218 so it might actually be the numbers matching motor after all. That would be awesome. I'm going to continue cleaning the exterior and squirting the valves and lifter area, to see if I can get the valves free. As usual it's a goo filled mess in there right now, so at least it's not rusty right? I'll start loosening the adjusters and see if things come loose. I've mentioned the motor in the truck right now is a 230 from a 58 D100. It runs fine and I have no immediate need to change the motor. Hence this being a multi-year project. The really cool part, is there was a rebuilt transmission included in the deal hanging off the rear of the motor. Clutch and flywheel weren't new but who caress. That means I have a spare bell housing and trans. The block is the only really important part of this story. So long at there are no hidden surprises, I'll be using it along with the 230 parts in the current mill for the eventual drive train. Nothing too far from stock, but no reason to give up displacement in my book. Plenty of other things to touch up on the truck, though nothing major. The previous owner did a nice enough job, but there are things that do need a higher level of quality. The paint has runs, there is bare metal in places under the dash, the welts between the fenders and body are not the right parts, or even rubber...I want it all done just so. I see a lot of fun in my future, as well as a lot of learning on these old trucks.

Much discussion on trans mounts in this thread: http://p15-d24.com/topic/50844-engine-mounts-p15-caution/?tab=comments#comment-539481

sounds like you got a handle on this now......hope you get what you are looing for...you have all the dimensions and should be able to say absolutely this is it by measuring your spring eye and the receiver which is the mount on the frame... they on E-bay, 16.00 a set of two, free delivery in the USA this is a bit cheaper than last ones I bought at 20.00 a pair...but for certain they were handed across the counter and I had them in my hot little hands immediately on exchange of money...

As usual nothing seems straightforward on this car. I've removed rear springs to find a previous owner had fitted the wrong silentblock bush. It looks like they'd found a bush with the right inner and outer diameter but too long and cut it to length but still too short and then added a washer between the bush end and the inside of the chassis mounting bracket, the bush on the other side of the car was the same so i'm assuming they had one long bush and cut it in half to do both sides of the car so it was no use for reference. The original bush had a mopar no. 1134486 according to my parts book and digging round the net came up with a cross reference to a modern part no. Dayton RB1 with the dimensions as follows- OD - 1-9/32" ID - 5/8" OD length - 2" ID Length - 2-5/16" On checking the mounting bracket and rear spring this seems to tally up so i've ordered these from Rockauto who had them listed for Dodge's of the same era but not Plymouth Desoto or Chrysler which are supposed to use the same bushing according to some sources, so we'll see what turns up. I'll update when I know more.

I am fortunate to have two such stores in town. I can remember as a teenager when the father of the current owners of the NAPA store sold parts out of his truck to local gas stations. When I bought a couple of 6v bulbs for the P15 one of the guys told me there was no telling how many miles those bulbs had traveled in his dad's truck. They also have a rack of parts books that must be at least ten feet long. I try to support these stores as much as possible!

The guy that built my 51 said the 1980 Dodge diplomat rear was almost a bolt in .

what you show is simply a reducing bush for pipe thread and does not incorporated the sealing collar internally as your sender requires. AGAIN, I suggest you go to your local big box auto parts counter and ask to see the adapters in their Stewart Warner line of products....they should have what you need. If not, ask for their catalog and buy it by specs. These gland nuts are specific to application and not general plumbing supply items.

I'm not totally familiar with your setup, but I don't believe the issue you are experiencing is with the Fluid Drive. The fluid drive is is just a viscous coupling between the engine and the clutch. The shifting mechanism you speak of sounds like you might have a "Presto Matic" transmission. This type of transmission operates off of electric solenoids and if the previous owner was swapping between 6V and 12V.... I would say you should start your investigation with your electrics. Going from memory there is at least 2 solenoid cans on the transmission and there is an input on the carb. Under certain conditions (speed, RPM) the solenoids shift a gear, essentially turning a 2 speed transmission into a 4 speed transmission. I am sure that if you search on here, you'll find discussions of converting this setup to 12V, find a wiring diagram, and even finding "modern interpretations" of how this system works and how to make it work using just toggle switches to eliminate some of the system for troubleshooting purposes. There was also about half a dozen different names this transmission setup had through the different Mopar branches, so keep in mind it might be listed under one of several different names.

got the temporary board removed that I had installed to hold the exhaust. Made up a hanger. Now that is out of the way I can start test assembling the bed on the frame

Clay. I posted the Miller MT19 on the Desoto facebook and listed the tool for $550. There isa person up near Levittown, Pa north of Philly and is close to me he is interested in the tool. So is the price of $550 good for you? I know we tried to get a higher price at Hershey, but at least you will get your investment money back on this deal. I left you a voice message on your company phone on Sunday night. Call me during the daytime on Monday cell 484-431-8157. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

If only that red head would leave me alone

Had it running,30 minutes. To me it sound no worse than any others i listened to on youtube. one frost plug leaks, oil filter isnt sealing and at the 30 minute mark the water pump seal let go. new pump coming from Rockauto. a week and i can replace pump. will see if i can locate a freeze plug kit, replace as necessary.

Going to take my parts book and visit the next village east of here. There is an auto parts placed that been in business in the same location for 65 years. Still have their books on the counter next to the cash register.

Good topic so I'll give it a bump for the Sunday crowd. Adapting a late model trans is doable but, generally, the old bell is removed and you'll be adapting at the back of the block. Obviously, anything attached to the bell would then require some fussin'.

Little show time this weekend.

Sounds Right, the builder said not a big problem keep you posted

Inspired by @Worden18, today I idled to the end of my driveway to capture a couple 2019 fall foliage pis. Now I'll go take my more-door out now for a real cruise...

I pulled the NOS steering wheel out of the box this afternoon. When I bought it back in 2008 I only took a brief look at it before putting it back in the box. The wheel itself is spotless. The gunk on it appears to be cosmoline. I'm not sure whether it leaked onto the bakelite over time or was smeared on at time of application. Any suggestions on how to remove the cosmoline without damaging the bakelite? Thanks, Brad

I finally installed a set of the 21" Monroe 34803 shocks on my '51 B3B and was very happy with the results. My previous shocks really only had issues with worn rubber bushings. Liked the ride improvement, so I think I will order and change my rear shocks with the shorter 18" Monroe 34904. Both model of shock go for around $27, after discount, at Rock Auto.

Bought this 50" cut Graveley in the late 80's for a buck by writing it into a house contract. Used it on the farm to pull hay wagons as well as cutting several acres of grass. Gave it to my son 5 yeas ago to replace his Cub Cadet.

Keven just finished up my gauges and they came out awesome.

1 5/8" dorman #560-023

Hmmm, musta missed that sentence. My eyes begin to cross at 1:00 AM. No snub intended.