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MarkAubuchon

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    369
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About MarkAubuchon

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    St. Louis Area
  • Interests
    Old Stuff
  • My Project Cars
    1947 P15, 1949 P17 Business Coupe,1950 B2B

Converted

  • Location
    St. Louis MO
  • Interests
    anything old

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    sales

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  1. take some pictures Check out the H.A.M.B site as well. they have more modified knowledge. good luck
  2. I guess I'm taken back by Mr. Adams comments. As long time member of this forum he should know and I would hope appreciate my artistic and imagination on builds and preservations of the Plymouth Brand. To my Knowledge I am the first and only "restorer" that has entered a "modified" Plymouth at a National POC meet to place not only second, then with additional upgrades come back and place first in the original class, after the driving the car coast to coast. OBTW I was recognized at the WPC for P15 Vann award. I'm pretty confident my paint by numbers truck will come out OK. I ll stick with painting by numbers.
  3. my decision had a lot to do with bolt on versus fabrication. If you use the stock frame you have quite a few modification (cutting, welding and fitting) to make it work and look correct, Dakota frame, probably the same (Im not a good welder at all) the s10, strip the frame and then rebuild with the brackets Im using a 360 and transmission, length is ok, width you install a wider rear end, front end, different a arms or spacers. when you order the kit you tell what motor and transmission combo and they send the mounts. Original Body, trim, bed, motor and transmission all MOPAR. What I hadn't mentioned is that the truck was set to be put back all original with a few modifications, flat head, dual carbs and exhaust, T5, disc brake conversion, 8 3/4 the intent was to pull my vintage camper. After my recent camping trip pulling the camper with my F150, I realized the Dodge could pull it, but it would be a long day. Keep you posted
  4. that's what I was thinking did you weld them in place
  5. Update, had the rear spring bushings replaced, began rebuilding front end. Believed I found one of the reason the front end had so many shims on the drivers side upper a arm. Found the lower drivers side a frame bolt holes thru the frame are elongated and the bolts show wear as well. Ordered a new bolt kit, once I get them I'll take them to a machine show and have a spacer made, size of big washer with exact hole for the bolt. Planning on welding to frame. Any other ideas would be appreciated
  6. agree with all. make sure the cab mounts are good, should also be a rubber bushing on the shift selector needs to good, if its like the cars you may need to adjust the rod length on transmission. (check the manual)
  7. anyone put modern gauges in your truck using the existing holes/position
  8. Yes, All of the cab and bed mounts are adjustable, direction say once everything is set, then you drill and install a set bolt. More to come.
  9. thanks, really interesting. How did you find this?
  10. Greg, thanks for posting pictures of my s10 code 504 switch
  11. I will say plugs do and will make a difference. Used Champion originally switched to auto light much better longevity
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