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lostviking last won the day on September 22 2019

lostviking had the most liked content!

About lostviking

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    San Diego, CA
  • Interests
    Cars, trucks, motorcycles
  • My Project Cars
    1946 WD15

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Traveled a lot
  • Occupation


  • Location
    San Diego
  • Interests
    Mopars, Harleys...geek stuff

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  1. Those of us who own shovelhead Harleys, use the drips to tell us when the oil it too low. Just sayin.
  2. Mine is an older model, so this might be different on yours. On my 46 the tube is pushed into the block and it was leaking at that point. I pulled it out and "reformed" the end of the tube with a round punch right up the tube to make that part bigger in diameter. I then pushed it back into the block, had to gently tap it down around the edges. Doesn't leak a bit now. Does that one pull out also?
  3. That's the part, but I was too afraid of breaking one to examine it very carefully. Both my motors are back together now, waiting to be reinstalled. I'm going to pull the electric motors out the previous owner put in. The only electric ones I'd use are ones that were available as a option. Not sure if that was an option or not. See it mentioned in the parts book though.
  4. Sure, that's works fine if your paddles are sealing. But then why open it? I had one that didn't function due to worn paddle seals. I bought two kits because, why not? Now looking at the kits, you could probably make the paddle seals....if you have a new set to use at a template. Like, because you bought two Same for the top gaskets. I'm planning on transferring them all to CAD. In fact, I might just copy the little bakelite (SP) looking part too, because I think it might just be something that breaks when people rebuild. I'm not sure why that couldn't be made of another material, like metal. Maybe due to wear at the top...I don't know. Once I've got a CAD file I can really do anything. Then again, I may die of old age before I need to get inside these again...here is San Diego and a truck I won't drive in bad weather. Like I think I said, these are not sold for our cars/truck, but rather for a Model A. There is one rivet missing, which you will notice soon enough. I simply too an aluminum pop rivet and cut it down. This rivet is NOT holding the paddle together, so I figure the aluminum one is plenty strong enough. Whole lot of fumbling around and now I have two motors that work again. Not that I've tried them on my truck yet, just put my thumb over the hole and move the wiper arm. Either way it was fun to rebuild them. Here is the part on Amazon. MACs Auto Parts 2894104 Trico KCX/KSB/KSL Series Wiper Motor Paddle Repair Kit Model A. Mine are KSB 406 variants.
  5. Just bought two kit's from Mac's. Buy them on Amazon rather than ebay and you'll save about $2. They are listed as for Model A Fords, but I'm sitting here with the kits and the gaskets are an exact match. The kit comes with the parts to rebuild the paddle, so it's up to you to buy just a gasket. Rivets, paddle sealing parts, gaskets, grease and a detailed drawing with instructions. Nice. The only thing missing is hard parts if you needed those.
  6. That says the minimum clearance is .0015. It doesn't say the maximum. LV
  7. The internet is great at keeping information accessible. My truck had an aftermarket set of electric motors installed when I bought it, but the original vacuum motors were included. One was frozen up. I started to disassemble it and when the shaft was a bit looser, it moved. I stopped and retightened the screws, then put a little lube inside. Now it moves just fine. I'm cleaning up everything, and still might need to swap the wiper arms as there was rust on the metal at both ends of the rods. I wire brushed them with some WD40 to clean them as best I could and was able to remove all the loose stuff. I just pained the parts with Corroseal. We will see how they are after that drys up. I'll probably use a liberal amount of WD40 on the inside to clean away any crud build up. It's a great parts cleaner, but evaporates over time. After it's clean I'll use the machine oil recommended above. Thank you all for posting this great information. I was kind of afraid of the unknown, but they are really simple. Here are pictures showing the direction of the bent spring under the control, and the what's under the press on cap for reference. You can see how cruddy they started.
  8. MAN! Nothing but disaster. I've left it for a week after the white paint and the clear still causes some wrinkling. I'm done with using the clear. This sucks. All the paints are Rustoleum enamel paints so I can't see why I keep having incompatibility problems. It's not even all the white that reacts, just a bit here and there. I ordered some 1/8 inch tape Back to plan A.
  9. Not trying to talk someone out of anything. The plain fact though is that if the switch you are using is faulty, it needs to be replaced. I've taken mine apart and the inside was new looking. There were zero wear marks, pits or any residue from arcing. The design is most definitely intended for high current. It's better than most I've seen you can purchase today, in a similar size. I've got a very long time working with this stuff and a lot of experience. I won't tell you that putting a relay in your system is wrong, it isn't. But it adds non-stock wiring and complications that are simply not needed. Using one to band aid a worn switch is just asking for a failure, or worse a fire. Fix the problem, never cover it up. If your truck is already modified, then do anything you want and makes you feel safe. If not, I'd think twice about making modifications. The median price for an original WD15 in my area is $22,600...high book is $50K. Modified trucks don't have that value. But then I've never purchased anything with the intention of ever selling it.
  10. And if you read that, you'll see they are stock on another brand, not a Dodge. There are no relays in the electrical diagram, take a look there. Also, as an engineer with over 40 years in the business, I understand why someone would want to use a relay. They are still not required though. The Dodge design has been working for 70 years. Nuff said.
  11. I don't see why you are using relays at all. They weren't used by the factory, which means the switch itself is plenty. As for diodes, they are used to protect a transistor from the inductive kick, not a mechanical switch.
  12. I should have looked at the parts book first For the WD15 it shows Deluxe Models 31 and 36 and Tri-airstream Model 27 and Truckmaster Model 61...if I'm reading this thing correctly. Thanks Ed.
  13. OK, can anyone tell me which model or models of heaters would be correct for a 1946 WD15? I see model 46 and 36 and 31...some look almost identical. Do they span multiple years? Thanks.
  14. Had some wrinkles again...so starting over...AGAIN. That must be my problem as I'm using the same type and manuf of paint. So far that is the only thing that makes sense, and I guess I'm guilty of not reading the full instructions on the can. I also wasn't getting good lines using tape, so I'm going to use a technique from HAMB. I haven't had any problems using the VHT self etching primer, so that's the first coat....after I strip them yet again. I'm getting pretty good at that. Next two coats of white to cover the letters and the white strip at the top of a 46 CA plate. Wait two days for cure. BTW, sent off the reg last night After two full days of cure time, 5 coats of clear over the same area's, it will hit other spots, but those are the area's to be careful to fully cover. Two more days of cure time. Now, finally the black...and two more days of cure time...maybe longer. Now sand just the white area's using 1200 grit and LOT's of water. As stated in the HAMB post, the clear should prevent going into the white. Clean it all up and a final clear coat. Don't smoke, but probably need a cigarette after all that. Thanks Tooljunkie.
  15. OK, been awhile so some updates. After I cleaned the plate to metal again above with MEK, I used VHT etching primer on it. This produced a thinner coating than the Rustoleum did. I think you can go with some high build and sand to get things perfect. I didn't. There are some pits in the metal that still show through, although I did wet sand the majority of it out. But not perfect. I got two or three coats of black on, two on the rear, then went for the white letters. Let me say, that is much harder than I imagined. I tried some silicone rubber rollers...slides too easily and so you can't get good coverage. I assumed I was going to use several coats, but this didn't work at all. I got out the small brushes. I suck. Not good lines at all. I cut a small piece of semi hard foam and tried to stamp the white on. I ended up getting a bunch on area's it wasn't supposed to be. I just resprayed the front black again. I'm going to take the time and effort to mask everything to get some straight edges. Then I will spray the white. Darn. I want to get this presentable before next Saturday. Reg is up Feb 26th and I want to get the new(old) plates transferred when I do that, rather than just redo the reg online and take care of the plates latter. We'll see how that goes. I might just have to fall back to that and then I can be more perfect on the finish of the plates. I figure a few pits in the metal showing won't keep the DMV from allowing their use.
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