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lostviking

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lostviking last won the day on September 22 2019

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About lostviking

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Diego, CA
  • Interests
    Cars, trucks, motorcycles
  • My Project Cars
    1946 WD15

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  • Biography
    Traveled a lot
  • Occupation
    Engineer

Converted

  • Location
    San Diego
  • Interests
    Mopars, Harleys...geek stuff

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  1. I bought a 1945 California license plate off ebay. It was supposed to be "restored". It was horrible. They guy even smeared some RTV over a crack and painted over that. That gives you an idea of the rest of the plate. I took it to work and glass beaded it clean. There were a couple spots I missed, so a quick touch up with some sand paper took care of that also. To fix the crack, which was maybe an inch long in the center of the plate, I soldered over the area on the rear of the plate. I leveled that pretty much, but left some thickness for strength. It's been humid around San Diego, so even over night there was some minor surface rust starting, especially in the pits where it was rusted before I'm guessing. I took a paper towel and some Corroseal and wiped the surface of both sides of the plate. I started with a thicker layer, so it got down into the pits, then wiped most of it off. You could see the typical blue tint from the chemical reaction. Next I went to the store and got some Rustoleum spray paints. Clean metal primer (light rust or none the can says), gloss black and gloss white. So far I've primered the rear of the plate, to make sure there was no reactions. I figured I could test there After I've given it enough time, I'll do the front with the primer and let that dry in the sun also. Last for today is a couple coats of gloss black. I'll continue tomorrow. Almost forgot to mention, I got one of the '46 plates to make my new plate GTG for my truck. It was in pretty much new condition. No work there required. It is interesting to note that although the 1944/46 plates were black with white lettering, the tag is yellow with black lettering. I wonder why? I know that's the correct colors and I'm pretty sure this has original paint on it also. Later that day... Way to optimistic about the surface. Lot's of wet sanding and it's still a bit rough in places. It's a lot harder to sand a license plate than a nice big flat truck panel. Anyway, one more coat of primer and I'll see what it looks like tomorrow. Might go right to black, might sand some more.
  2. Thanks for the replies. I've been looking at pictures online and it seems to be common. I've seen close in front, gap in rear and the reverse. I will get the corner protectors from one of the sources, since mine are missing in the front and painted over in the rear.
  3. The rear also drags on the fender a bit, at least the protector...which is also missing I think from the front. There are a number of alignment issues I believe on this truck that will need to be sorted out when I repaint it.
  4. The body lines seems to line up, but there is a big gap at the bottom of the front of the hood. This is the same on both sides. I don't see anything to adjust to change that gap. The fender and the part of the body just under it seem like they are installed properly, but it's hard to tell with ever having seen another one in person.
  5. Another good day in the garage. I'm still waiting for my engine stand to get here, but that isn't stopping me. I got the cam out today by holding the lifters up with wire or gunk, depending on the lifter. After the cam was out I pushed the lifters down into the pan. Only had the one just to the front of the fuel pump hang up on the crank, but that was easy to move around through the hole. Cam has light surface rust on the lobes, but little to no wear. More and more looking like a very low mileage engine.
  6. Here's another set on ebay. There are probably more. Google is your friend. https://www.ebay.com/i/273820002094?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=273820002094&targetid=484372159119&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9031357&poi=&campaignid=8080423831&mkgroupid=86416348947&rlsatarget=pla-484372159119&abcId=1139446&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQiAxrbwBRCoARIsABEc9siLsBSzhOhEI0oX8YgzsuPHNaByLSYzT9VCrLOfxvAadLmGGQ7qPa4aApUIEALw_wcB
  7. My 46 WD15 has them on the door handle and window cranks. Maybe a bit worse for wear. That's what keeps the pins from dropping out that hold the handles on.
  8. I'm leaning towards a B-body 8-3/4, but the Jeep 8-1/4 is also a good rear end. I like the 8-3/4. I've had both, but I've been inside more of the larger ones. From what I read they are both as easy to swap, and I like the drop out pumpkin. Depends on which I find around here. There is a Mopar only wrecking yard not too far away.
  9. Another mile sto..er step today. I picked up a KD-700 spring compressor off ebay and it got here yesterday. Today I put on some gloves and went elbow deep in the muck. I was able to get all the valves, springs, retainers and keepers off (lost one into the oil pan, missed plugging a hole). Since I've been keeping the valves wet, they all came out pretty easily. The more I see, the more I believe the 63K is the actual mileage on this motor. The faces of the valves have some build up, but the stems and even the rear of most are very clean. You can still read the lettering on them. The lifters, for now, are a different story. I assume they come out just like any other lifter, but they all seem to have some gunk built up on them. I hosed the lifters down again with some more WD40 and stopped for the day. I'll probably dip the parts in carb dip I've had for some time and only done a couple carbs in. Then again I've got a spare carb and I'll probably do it first, before I destroy the dip. Don't know yet. LOL, three pairs of gloves and half a roll of paper towels. OK, now know the lifters need to come out the bottom...after the cam comes out. I guess I'll need to get an engine stand so I can flip it. Don't have a bench I want this dirty girl laying on
  10. Thanks Ed. Since our trucks share the same frame, the 94 would fit mine also. I've heard the Dakota axles are a perfect fit also, if anyone has experience with that, I'm still gathering option information. I can't remember, or find the post, but one of them even uses the drive shaft without modification. I think there is enough interest with things like this and T5 swaps that it should be in the tech section with as much information as possible. That would help the most people IMHO. Thanks everyone who responded.
  11. No, a WD15 is a 3/4 ton truck. I'll be putting disks on the front later, but those will also be 5 on 4.5.
  12. I usually like to search, because I see a lot more than what I was originally looking for that way. But, I've been looking for 30 mins now and can't find a thread. I'm sure I've seen one, but... I want to get 1) a better gear ratio and 2) get better brakes for my truck. I'm planning on keeping the 230 and 3 speed. I want to upgrade the rear and I've read, somewhere, that either a Dakota or Jeep rear end of the correct year (drum brakes so the wheels still fit) was a fairly good weld/bolt in. Does anyone know the correct year? Thank you.
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