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lostviking

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lostviking last won the day on September 22 2019

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About lostviking

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Diego, CA
  • Interests
    Cars, trucks, motorcycles
  • My Project Cars
    1946 WD15

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  • Biography
    Traveled a lot
  • Occupation
    Engineer

Converted

  • Location
    San Diego
  • Interests
    Mopars, Harleys...geek stuff

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  1. I'll get a set of pictures taken, showing dimensions of everything...once I'm back to work on it. Right now it's raining a bit, so I am playing around with other things.
  2. I ended up buying a Deluxe Model 31 from a 1949 truck off ebay. I got it today and disassembled it. Sheet metal is pretty good, just a bit of surface rust to fix. Not sure about the blower or the core yet. I tried testing the motor, but I only have 12V...I didn't think it would hurt momentarily so I setup a test. When I tap the lead the motor jumps, but then stops. Keeping the voltage on does nothing, but I didn't let it stay on more than a second to keep from overheating something. I can tap, tap, tap and it moves each time. Don't these motors run from straight 6V DC? If I have to replace the motor, does anyone know how the fan is secured. It looks like it's pinned through the shaft. Thanks.
  3. Wow, been quite awhile...but I finally have some more progress to report. I got the engine, sans head which I previously removed...and some other small items, on the engine stand. I was then able to pull the oil pan, flip it over and go at the crank. Every thing came apart fairly easily, with one exception. The oil transfer line. Being an occasional idiot, I didn't put a wrench on the fitting in the block. The first one came apart so easily, I didn't even think about it. Bad idea. On the second one, the compression fitting was turning with some force...when I noticed it was the fitting in the block that was actually turning. I twisted the tubing. AAAAAAAA. I'll have to bend and flare a new one when it goes back together, or just use the one in my other motor. Which is more likely. Anyway on to good stuff. Inspecting the bearings, I remain convinced that this motor never had more than around 60K on it. There is almost zero wear on any bearing. I think the truck got parked and just sat too long. The previous owner would have been surprised if he had rebuilt this motor. But he didn't want to spend the $3K, so he bought a good running engine and swapped instead. That makes my desire for a numbers matching rebuild easier. I of course need to have the block inspected for cracks I can't see. I don't have the best vision anymore, and even if I did you all know that magnaflux testing is a must. I still need to get a ridge breaker to remove the pistons. That .005 or slightly larger ridge at the top of the cylinders is enough to grab the rings, and I don't want to take the chance of causing any damage trying to force them past it. I'll get the pistons out and then send the block to be refreshed. I won't bother with the crank or rods, those will end up in someone else's motor eventually. I fully intend to rape the 230 for it's crank and rods and use my block. That's it for today. Since it's my only truck, I'll be using the 46 to take the block to a machine shop. Have to avoid the freeway speeds, but I can get there and back on side streets.
  4. Those of us who own shovelhead Harleys, use the drips to tell us when the oil it too low. Just sayin.
  5. Mine is an older model, so this might be different on yours. On my 46 the tube is pushed into the block and it was leaking at that point. I pulled it out and "reformed" the end of the tube with a round punch right up the tube to make that part bigger in diameter. I then pushed it back into the block, had to gently tap it down around the edges. Doesn't leak a bit now. Does that one pull out also?
  6. That's the part, but I was too afraid of breaking one to examine it very carefully. Both my motors are back together now, waiting to be reinstalled. I'm going to pull the electric motors out the previous owner put in. The only electric ones I'd use are ones that were available as a option. Not sure if that was an option or not. See it mentioned in the parts book though.
  7. Sure, that's works fine if your paddles are sealing. But then why open it? I had one that didn't function due to worn paddle seals. I bought two kits because, why not? Now looking at the kits, you could probably make the paddle seals....if you have a new set to use at a template. Like, because you bought two Same for the top gaskets. I'm planning on transferring them all to CAD. In fact, I might just copy the little bakelite (SP) looking part too, because I think it might just be something that breaks when people rebuild. I'm not sure why that couldn't be made of another material, like metal. Maybe due to wear at the top...I don't know. Once I've got a CAD file I can really do anything. Then again, I may die of old age before I need to get inside these again...here is San Diego and a truck I won't drive in bad weather. Like I think I said, these are not sold for our cars/truck, but rather for a Model A. There is one rivet missing, which you will notice soon enough. I simply too an aluminum pop rivet and cut it down. This rivet is NOT holding the paddle together, so I figure the aluminum one is plenty strong enough. Whole lot of fumbling around and now I have two motors that work again. Not that I've tried them on my truck yet, just put my thumb over the hole and move the wiper arm. Either way it was fun to rebuild them. Here is the part on Amazon. MACs Auto Parts 2894104 Trico KCX/KSB/KSL Series Wiper Motor Paddle Repair Kit Model A. Mine are KSB 406 variants.
  8. Just bought two kit's from Mac's. Buy them on Amazon rather than ebay and you'll save about $2. They are listed as for Model A Fords, but I'm sitting here with the kits and the gaskets are an exact match. The kit comes with the parts to rebuild the paddle, so it's up to you to buy just a gasket. Rivets, paddle sealing parts, gaskets, grease and a detailed drawing with instructions. Nice. The only thing missing is hard parts if you needed those.
  9. That says the minimum clearance is .0015. It doesn't say the maximum. LV
  10. The internet is great at keeping information accessible. My truck had an aftermarket set of electric motors installed when I bought it, but the original vacuum motors were included. One was frozen up. I started to disassemble it and when the shaft was a bit looser, it moved. I stopped and retightened the screws, then put a little lube inside. Now it moves just fine. I'm cleaning up everything, and still might need to swap the wiper arms as there was rust on the metal at both ends of the rods. I wire brushed them with some WD40 to clean them as best I could and was able to remove all the loose stuff. I just pained the parts with Corroseal. We will see how they are after that drys up. I'll probably use a liberal amount of WD40 on the inside to clean away any crud build up. It's a great parts cleaner, but evaporates over time. After it's clean I'll use the machine oil recommended above. Thank you all for posting this great information. I was kind of afraid of the unknown, but they are really simple. Here are pictures showing the direction of the bent spring under the control, and the what's under the press on cap for reference. You can see how cruddy they started.
  11. MAN! Nothing but disaster. I've left it for a week after the white paint and the clear still causes some wrinkling. I'm done with using the clear. This sucks. All the paints are Rustoleum enamel paints so I can't see why I keep having incompatibility problems. It's not even all the white that reacts, just a bit here and there. I ordered some 1/8 inch tape Back to plan A.
  12. Not trying to talk someone out of anything. The plain fact though is that if the switch you are using is faulty, it needs to be replaced. I've taken mine apart and the inside was new looking. There were zero wear marks, pits or any residue from arcing. The design is most definitely intended for high current. It's better than most I've seen you can purchase today, in a similar size. I've got a very long time working with this stuff and a lot of experience. I won't tell you that putting a relay in your system is wrong, it isn't. But it adds non-stock wiring and complications that are simply not needed. Using one to band aid a worn switch is just asking for a failure, or worse a fire. Fix the problem, never cover it up. If your truck is already modified, then do anything you want and makes you feel safe. If not, I'd think twice about making modifications. The median price for an original WD15 in my area is $22,600...high book is $50K. Modified trucks don't have that value. But then I've never purchased anything with the intention of ever selling it.
  13. And if you read that, you'll see they are stock on another brand, not a Dodge. There are no relays in the electrical diagram, take a look there. Also, as an engineer with over 40 years in the business, I understand why someone would want to use a relay. They are still not required though. The Dodge design has been working for 70 years. Nuff said.
  14. I don't see why you are using relays at all. They weren't used by the factory, which means the switch itself is plenty. As for diodes, they are used to protect a transistor from the inductive kick, not a mechanical switch.
  15. I should have looked at the parts book first For the WD15 it shows Deluxe Models 31 and 36 and Tri-airstream Model 27 and Truckmaster Model 61...if I'm reading this thing correctly. Thanks Ed.
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