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lostviking

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lostviking last won the day on September 22 2019

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About lostviking

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Diego, CA
  • Interests
    Cars, trucks, motorcycles
  • My Project Cars
    1946 WD15

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  • Biography
    Traveled a lot
  • Occupation
    Engineer

Converted

  • Location
    San Diego
  • Interests
    Mopars, Harleys...geek stuff

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  1. Looking online, I found an article by the company...that did this on a 47 1/2 Ton. They did move the radiator forward of the stock mount, but none of it looked that hard (for someone who can weld, unlike me). You could contact them. I read it a few weeks ago, so I don't have the link right now, but Google is your friend.
  2. The heater is done, has been, and is ready to install. I need to fabricate the above mount adapter first. The only thing I'm still doing is restoring the red paint in the Mopar Deluxe badge and the defroster pull handle. I painted it with a red paint pen. After I do a couple coats I'll buff the non-paint areas with a scotch brite pad. I already did this with the badge, and it came out OK. I over buffed a couple spots, probably because I only put one coat of paint. This time I'll fill 'er up, then buff. Looked pretty good the first time, so I think it will come out nice.
  3. I spent a little time today working on a drawing for the heater adapter. Something that became obvious to me, is that the adapter Young Ed was kind enough to send me pictures of, is for a different model than the model 31 I have. The tubes for the water are closer together than for the plate he photographed. I set the hole spacing at 4-5/8, which is what I can measure for my Model 31 heater. I did not change the rest of the dimensions, so only time will tell if that all still works. I'm going to fabricate one from my drawing. I'm a mechanical designer though, not a drafter. Sure, I know how...but when it comes to dimensioning a drawing per the applicable standards...well you end up with what I think I'll need. That's why we have a drafting department at work, to fix my stuff before we send it to a vendor. Anyway, here you go. HEATER ADAPTER.pdf
  4. I had zero problem, after I listened to the instructions and let the paint dry.
  5. If it's humid, the paint will take at least a week to be ready for another coat. If you do anything that breaks the surface, like sanding...another week. I ended up starting over several times because I had reactions. Your seems pretty small if that's the only place. Just give it a week (or two) and wet sand it. Then give it another week and do some touch up, or do the clear. Good luck. Patients is the key. I learned that the hard way.
  6. Exactly. the clear gives you something to sand into without hitting your base color coat. I didn't put so many coats on the letter though, but I don't see any harm. The trick to the wet sanding is to go slow, and get the plate held down as flat as possible. I used the four bolt holes, but placed some washers behind the plate due to the depth of the ridge around the outside. I also got lucky and found a perfect condition number plate for my 1946. Didn't have to work on that. I see you found all the small pits in the metal. I used a few coats of high build primer, after one coat is etching primer. That way I didn't need the acid bath you used. Once I had all the surface pits and things filled with the primer coats, that's when I hit the lettered area with color. I used a small maybe 1x1.75 inch dense foam block to sand, and 400 grit. LOTS of clears means you don't go through to the base, and end up with multiple shades...I had to restart due to that. I also only put one good coat of the final color over the clear. Easier to sand through. Then hit the whole thing with a final coat of clear. Came out pretty good if I do say so myself. I can't wait to see yours!
  7. With Young Ed's help, I think I've got a pretty accurate model of the sheet metal part that goes between the heater and the firewall. As soon as I've finalized one last detail, I'll publish drawings that will allow anyone to recreate the part. This is what it looks like. I need to get the proper hole sizes, and exact X, Y locations from Ed. I can also try dropping the pictures he sent me into a CAD drawing, but that will have some error to it.
  8. OK, I tried to repair the clamp band today. It didn't go too well. I bought some aluminum brazing rods, but can't get them to stick to the metal...so I guess it's not aluminum. Probably tin then? I used my MAP torch at first, but it has WAY to much heat and the torch nozzle is too big. I ended up melting a quarter inch or so of the material away. The second thing I learned from that is that the metal ends up having a slightly yellow color after it's melted. I've got another idea. I was hoping to make something that was not visible, but then this part isn't visible anyway. The place it's broken is right where it would meet the firewall. The clamp band goes over the two "clam shell" pieces of the main housing. It bends towards the housing on either end, and has a long threaded piece swagged into it. The screw goes through the bottom of one of the housing halves and into this threaded part. That's what holds the two pieces together, besides perimeter screws like the two you can see directly above this. I'm going to try a piece of SST tubing. Very thin wall. I'll cut it in half most of the way down, then bend over and flatten the remainder. That part will get drilled so the screw fits through. Then I'm going to use a panel bonding adhesive to attach it to the remaining part of the clamping band. I'll dress it as well as I can, then paint the whole thing. It won't be visible anyway. I don't have anything I can use to repair the clamping band exactly as it was, so this I think is the best bet.
  9. Almost done I need to repair the band that clamps the two halves, and refinish the paint on the "Deluxe" badge and the defroster pull handle. But here is what it looks like. The studs that go through the motor clear, and so did the fan shaft, so I'm leaving them alone. I initially tried to rivet the door handles back on, but the nose on my rivet gun is too large and damaged the surfaces. I used screws, nuts and Loctite. Just need to fabricate the mounting adapter at the firewall, and get the large nuts that hold it in. Oh, and switch, h2o valve...minor stuff
  10. I wonder which is better, mine says I'm a dirty old man. Tim
  11. Oh, no screws...I'm soaking them in vinegar to get the rust off. Very minor amount and then I'm paint some Coroseal on them.
  12. Last for today is the base and the body side with all the vents. The wife got home from work, so I'm done for the day. I had a day off You can see where the defroster part goes back on sticking out the side. Obviously that goes on after the body is reassembled. Even though I'm not hooking it up for now, I'm putting it back on so I don't lose anything.
  13. I already put the fan shroud on in those pictures, but here's a better shot...and the fan must be placed so it doesn't hit top of bottom. This is a 6V motor I got from NAPA that was intended for a 56 Chevy. I don't know yet whether I need to cut the extra length off the shaft or the through screws that can be seen sticking out the rear. If not, I'm leaving them.
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