Jump to content

The Oil Soup

Members
  • Content Count

    568
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

The Oil Soup last won the day on August 21 2014

The Oil Soup had the most liked content!

3 Followers

About The Oil Soup

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

Profile Information

  • Location
    Tucson,AZ
  • Interests
    Wall covering, painting, family, friends and working on my pick up
  • My Project Cars
    1953 B4B short side

Converted

  • Location
    Tucson, AZ
  • Interests
    Paint and glue

Recent Profile Visitors

1,937 profile views
  1. IIRC the installation should go like this, shackle mounted to the spring, other end of shackle to the frame mount and lastly other end of spring to the frame mount. Be generous with the grease.
  2. I suppose a solution to this would be to machine a relief in the lower bearing housing to flip the bearing 180* and line up the oil groove.
  3. Without tearing into the transmission that is a great solution!
  4. My concern was more about the fact that the oil groove in the #1 main bearing lower half doesn't line up with the upper half, but if replacement bearings don't even have an oil groove at all then it must not be that critical. There is only one way to correctly install the #1 bearing halves. Bearings 1 through 3 have holes in both halves. I spoke with someone at Bernbaums (Gary?) and he said that was normal.
  5. You might look at this thread over on the car side.
  6. I will be doing mine also at some point.
  7. Someone had a thread on rebuilding their engine/trans (Beebe?) and pulled that part, cut a groove in it and reinstalled it with an o-ring on it, that seems like the best fix.
  8. Here is one that Oreillys sells, they have many different ones. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/murray-climate-control-5217/air-conditioning-16770/blower-motor-12457/0da7cd2eedaa/murray-climate-control-blower-motor/pm354/4781897
  9. I added a ground strap from the engine to the firewall and from the engine to the frame.
  10. Another option to consider is the fact that the "button" on the starter that the stomp contacts can be screwed in or out to advance or retard the point at which the starter begins to rotate and you might want to stomp a bit more vigorously when you start the truck so the starter doesn't spin without being engaged to the ring gear.
  11. Car is looking sweet! Does anyone repop those '35 ford air filters?
  12. Can you access vacuum off of the carb you're not getting distributor advance from?
  13. I'm getting ready to assemble my 230 and also have a George Asche dual 1bbl intake and split exhaust manifold, do you have any pointers and how does it perform compared to the previous engine?
  14. Maybe a VDO PM354 or at Oreillys as Murray PM354.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use