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61farnham

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About 61farnham

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Romsey, England
  • My Project Cars
    '48 Plymouth Business Coupe
    '61 Ford Zodiac Estate

Converted

  • Location
    Romsey England
  • Interests
    old cars

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  1. I smell a cunning plan to get me active on Facebook😉
  2. There's a seller on ebay with just the nuts, type in "1930's 1940's 1950's mopar exhaust manifold nuts" or I found another ebay seller mopar-direct, type in "1946-1959 Plymouth, Dodge manifold hardware rebuild kit", with the whole kit plus gaskets for $70 but they wanted $85 to ship to me in the UK and when you add on 20% import duty + tax it would have been almost $200 for the studs/nuts and washers, i run a Plymouth not a Rolls Royce😲. Vintage Power Wagons sell the full kit as well for $60 without the gaskets but I never got a reply from them for a shipping quote. I'm envious of of that manifold you've on order if I didn't already have a tall Edmunds to fit I'd be next in line. Regards.....
  3. Ha, just gone through this myself with the studs whilst tracing a pinking/knocking noise in the engine on acceleration which i've hopefully traced to a leaking valve cover combined with a loose intake manifold. The valve cover had a slight leak on the top edge just under the intake manifold which not being sealed properly sucked the oil into the rear two cylinders on accelerating causing air/fuel mixture to be wrong hence the pinking, fingers crossed it's just a case of new gaskets and sealant I'll know when it's back together. Anyhow back to the manifold studs and with mine looking not the best I needed to replace them, according to my P15 parts book there were three different lengths of stud used, 4 no. 1-15/16" long 7 no. 1-11/16" long 2 no. 3-5/16" long with the 4 no 1-15/16" going at each end of the exhaust manifold with the conical nuts and washers on. The best match I could find was as follows Dorman 675-003 at 2" long Dorman 675-070 at 1-3/4" long Dorman 675-080 at 3-3/4" long These all have the 3/8" unc threads at one end and 3/8" unf threads at the other as per original spec. I've just ordered them from Rockauto so not fitted yet but i can see no reason why they shouldn't work ok. They all only come in boxes of ten but their cheap enough. Here's a quick to scale sketch I did to show comparsion between them.
  4. Just updating this thread, The silent block bushes I ordered arrived, Dayton RB1, and were fitted yesterday with no problems. Shown here with what i removed from the spring. I fitted nos shackles and bushes which i had to replace the worn ones. Also i fitted new lower shock mount studs which came from Speedway Motors part no.91036096. These were almost the same apart from a lack of a shoulder on the end which fixes to the mounting bracket, I got round this by pressing in a reducer bush to take the hole in the bracket from 5/8" to 1/2". One more job completed. Thanks again for everyone's input.
  5. I've ordered from Rockauto @ $18.50 a pair as their shipping to UK works out cheaper. I found them at truckspring.com @ $5.97 each but with shipping to me Rockauto worked out a better deal. I couldn't find a supplier over here. Thanks for your help.
  6. As usual nothing seems straightforward on this car. I've removed rear springs to find a previous owner had fitted the wrong silentblock bush. It looks like they'd found a bush with the right inner and outer diameter but too long and cut it to length but still too short and then added a washer between the bush end and the inside of the chassis mounting bracket, the bush on the other side of the car was the same so i'm assuming they had one long bush and cut it in half to do both sides of the car so it was no use for reference. The original bush had a mopar no. 1134486 according to my parts book and digging round the net came up with a cross reference to a modern part no. Dayton RB1 with the dimensions as follows- OD - 1-9/32" ID - 5/8" OD length - 2" ID Length - 2-5/16" On checking the mounting bracket and rear spring this seems to tally up so i've ordered these from Rockauto who had them listed for Dodge's of the same era but not Plymouth Desoto or Chrysler which are supposed to use the same bushing according to some sources, so we'll see what turns up. I'll update when I know more.
  7. I've got this one on my wish list... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1929-Chrysler-Fargo-Packet/372786355267?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  8. Agree with your recommendation about using original silent block type bush, poly bushes are popular here for two reasons first there're available and secondly the quality of modern replacement rubber bushes is suspect at best, it's not unknown to be swapping them again after a few hundred miles!!
  9. Thanks for the reply's, all good info. A search of net brought up several truck and trailer places selling silent block bushing by size, i'll measure what I've got before removal and go from there. I'll update when I know more.
  10. Anyone know the dimensions of the silent block bushes that fit in the front of the rear spring on a '48 Plymouth as i need to change mine and I'm looking to find some locally here in the U.K. just need the size as I'm sure the old ones will be destroyed in the process of removal. Regards ......... Simon.
  11. Great weekend, Great people, Thanks go to Robin and crew for organising the event. Looking forward to next year. Mines the Grey Bus. Coupe in the first photo been on the forum since 2013, car was imported by the previous owner in 2012. It was built in L.A. and been around the San Francisco area for most of it's live that i know about. I've had to completely replace brakes, fit new fuel tank and have a new prop shaft made in the time I've owned it. Jobs for this winter include new screen rubber, investigate a knocking in the engine and fit new rear shackle bushes. regards to all ........ Simon.
  12. I had a new prop shaft made for my 48 Plymouth here in the UK cost me £315 (around $400 at todays exchange rate) it has modern uj's and a slip joint like dodgeb4ya's picture. New ball and trunnions joints were around $90 each end then I had to factor in shipping and duty and they still had to be fitted and maintained. New shaft is fit and forget except a couple of squirts with grease gun twice a year, I kept the original transmission and rear end. You should be able to take your original prop shaft to a specialist shop and they'll make you a new one to bolt back in. I would imagine the price of those original uj's is only gonna keep rising as they become scarcer. Regards........ Simon.
  13. Have you tried https://www.rockauto.com/ , shipping costs aren't too bad and import duty's included in their price so nothing to pay when the package lands unlike when using Royal Mail , you could always add a few other small bits, points, condenser, gaskets, etc, to make it more cost effective. Autolite 306 listed at £1.04 each. regards........... Simon.
  14. Hi GiraffeDan, The seals i used for my rear axle were as follows - Inner - National 470950 2.44" Outer Diameter 1.375" Inner Diameter 0.5" Width Outer - National 6241s I never did find out if the axle in my car was the original one or not but the seals listed above fitted it and are still good so happy days. Would recommend pulling the old seals first to get the part no. off them before ordering new ones if this is practicable. Hope this helps Regards........ Simon.
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