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About 61farnham

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Romsey, England
  • My Project Cars
    '48 Plymouth Business Coupe
    '61 Ford Zodiac Estate


  • Location
    Romsey England
  • Interests
    old cars

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Here's what worked for me, I'd brought a used five leg puller that had no dogbone so had to use leverage rather than the BFH. Came off with quite a pop.
  2. My P15 cruises along nicely at 65-70mph in overdrive, has stock running gear and single carb for the mo..........
  3. Can you imagine the complaints you'd get from the nimby's these days! There's a large naval dockyard just down the coast from me where they've just built a housing development across the water and the new residents are complaining about the noise from the ships. I guess they didn't see the two aircraft carriers when they were buying their new home.You couldn't make it up.
  4. Here you go JSabah, just rotated them as described above. Great car by the way.
  5. Sounds to me you have air in system, try topping the coolant up just above the fins inside the radiator and run the engine up to normal operating temperature with the cap off the radiator and top up the coolant if it drops below the fins when the thermostat opens, you should see some air bubbles come thru the top hose into the radiator when the thermostat opens and the coolant circulates these will vent thru the open cap instead being forced thru the overflow. Let it run with cap off till you get no more bubbles coming thru put the cap back on and you should be good to go.
  6. My first port of call for parts is https://www.rockauto.com/ they have the basics and quick shipping to the UK, not found any treasure shop this side unfortunately. A couple of other suppliers are https://www.oldmoparts.com/ and https://www.robertsmotorparts.com/store/ . Nos parts turn up on US ebay now and again but prices vary greatly and patience is required there if your looking for something specific. There are still companies in the UK who will reline your brake shoes if that's necessary, google to find someone local to you. The most important thing you can buy is a proper factory issue repair manual for your car, reprints are available but genuine ones can be regularly found on US ebay at sensible prices. I'm down in Hampshire on the south coast. Any questions you have post them up here and someone will have an answer, it's a great forum unlike some i'm on. Look forward to seeing your progress.. Regards...... Simon.
  7. Welcome to the forum, lots of good folk and info here, as Sniper says there's an small inspection panel in floor under the drivers feet you can remove for topping up the master cylinder. If the cars been sat for 15 years with no brakes i wouldn't bother putting any brake fluid in as you'll probably end up with a puddle on the floor. At the very least i'd be pulling the wheels and brake drums off and putting new seals in the wheel/master cylinders stripping the brakes shoes off and make sure everything is moving as it should, check the brake pipes for corrosion too while your there. Have you a workshop manual for the car? Great looking car you have there, whereabouts in the U.K. are you? Regards...... Simon.
  8. Had to google that, apparently they use nylon brake lines in some light aircraft kits and race cars for weight saving over metal lines, but as Dodgeb4ya states it's NOT for street use.
  9. If your using copper or copper alloy tubing for your brakelines i'd recommend the rubber lined clips as posted above and placing the clips about a foot apart for better support as it's more prone to vibration than the original steel tubing.
  10. If you need a new pedal shaft and bushings you can use a '48 f**d one, there's a seller on ebay who sells repro ones. Check out my earlier thread for details of how I fitted them to my stock '48 Plymouth master cylinder.
  11. I smell a cunning plan to get me active on Facebook😉
  12. There's a seller on ebay with just the nuts, type in "1930's 1940's 1950's mopar exhaust manifold nuts" or I found another ebay seller mopar-direct, type in "1946-1959 Plymouth, Dodge manifold hardware rebuild kit", with the whole kit plus gaskets for $70 but they wanted $85 to ship to me in the UK and when you add on 20% import duty + tax it would have been almost $200 for the studs/nuts and washers, i run a Plymouth not a Rolls Royce😲. Vintage Power Wagons sell the full kit as well for $60 without the gaskets but I never got a reply from them for a shipping quote. I'm envious of of that manifold you've on order if I didn't already have a tall Edmunds to fit I'd be next in line. Regards.....
  13. Ha, just gone through this myself with the studs whilst tracing a pinking/knocking noise in the engine on acceleration which i've hopefully traced to a leaking valve cover combined with a loose intake manifold. The valve cover had a slight leak on the top edge just under the intake manifold which not being sealed properly sucked the oil into the rear two cylinders on accelerating causing air/fuel mixture to be wrong hence the pinking, fingers crossed it's just a case of new gaskets and sealant I'll know when it's back together. Anyhow back to the manifold studs and with mine looking not the best I needed to replace them, according to my P15 parts book there were three different lengths of stud used, 4 no. 1-15/16" long 7 no. 1-11/16" long 2 no. 3-5/16" long with the 4 no 1-15/16" going at each end of the exhaust manifold with the conical nuts and washers on. The best match I could find was as follows Dorman 675-003 at 2" long Dorman 675-070 at 1-3/4" long Dorman 675-080 at 3-3/4" long These all have the 3/8" unc threads at one end and 3/8" unf threads at the other as per original spec. I've just ordered them from Rockauto so not fitted yet but i can see no reason why they shouldn't work ok. They all only come in boxes of ten but their cheap enough. Here's a quick to scale sketch I did to show comparsion between them.
  14. Just updating this thread, The silent block bushes I ordered arrived, Dayton RB1, and were fitted yesterday with no problems. Shown here with what i removed from the spring. I fitted nos shackles and bushes which i had to replace the worn ones. Also i fitted new lower shock mount studs which came from Speedway Motors part no.91036096. These were almost the same apart from a lack of a shoulder on the end which fixes to the mounting bracket, I got round this by pressing in a reducer bush to take the hole in the bracket from 5/8" to 1/2". One more job completed. Thanks again for everyone's input.
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