canadiandeluxe Posted February 1, 2019 Report Posted February 1, 2019 Ok so i need to take out the transmission out of my 50 special deluxe and the book doesn't really tell me how to do it all that well, One of my teachers said there might only be like four bolts holding it to the separate bell housing thing. Because I was looking at it and was kind of confused as to how to take it out. i also am just going to assume without the bell housing it will clear the cross-member because it is welded in place? Any tips are welcome. Quote
Labrauer Posted February 1, 2019 Report Posted February 1, 2019 There are only 4 bolts that hold the transmission to the bell housing two on each side. The transmission will come out of the bell housing with some resistance but it will come off. Be sure you have someone there to help you as it is quite heavy and keep it at a level as it has to come out of the though out bearing and the pilot bushing. I have changed three and sometimes you have to pry between the bell and transmission to break it loose. Good luck. 1 Quote
_shel_ny Posted February 1, 2019 Report Posted February 1, 2019 1 at each corner of the transmission. Be sure that the gasket between the transmission, and bell housing is in place when putting the transmission back in. Gear lube will leak from the hole in the transmission if not installed. My original gasket had no hole at that spot, so I did not cut a hole in my new gasket at that point. Quote
P15-D24 Posted February 1, 2019 Report Posted February 1, 2019 Use a tranny jack. Make it a lot easier for both removal and installation. Pull the rear U joint off, disconnect the e brake cable. Quote
plymjim Posted February 1, 2019 Report Posted February 1, 2019 First, place jack stands under your vehicle. Remove drive shaft; disconnect speedo cable, shifter arms, & e-brake cable. Remove the bracket that secures the e-brake cable from the left side of trans. Remove the 4 bolts holding trans to bell housing. Like Webmaster says, transmission jack or at least a floor jack will make things a lot easier for you. On a '48 the floor over the trans is removable. Not sure about your '50 but that would also make things a lot easier for you. Best of luck & if I missed anything, guys, please correct me. Quote
50 coupe Posted February 1, 2019 Report Posted February 1, 2019 (edited) Yup, just four bolts. I just took mine out. Not difficult. I did it with the car on jack stands, floor jack and crawling around on the floor. Edited February 1, 2019 by 50 coupe 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 1, 2019 Report Posted February 1, 2019 most folks forget to matchmark their drive shaft orientation and often later pick up a bad vibe...take a minute to do, may save you some hassle 2 Quote
JerseyHarold Posted February 1, 2019 Report Posted February 1, 2019 I found that making a couple of guide pins makes it much easier to install the trans. Get a couple of bolts with the same thread as the original mounting bolts, then cut the heads off the longer bolts and screw them into two diagonally-located mounting holes on the bell housing. Slide the trans into position on the pins you just made, put in two regular mounting bolts, then remove the 'pin-bolts' and replace them with the correct ones. You can also cut a slot into the end of each guide pin to make removal by screwdriver easy. 3 1 Quote
P15-D24 Posted February 2, 2019 Report Posted February 2, 2019 5 hours ago, JerseyHarold said: I found that making a couple of guide pins makes it much easier to install the trans. Get a couple of bolts with the same thread as the original mounting bolts, then cut the heads off the longer bolts and screw them into two diagonally-located mounting holes on the bell housing. Slide the trans into position on the pins you just made, put in two regular mounting bolts, then remove the 'pin-bolts' and replace them with the correct ones. You can also cut a slot into the end of each guide pin to make removal by screwdriver easy. Makes aligning the input shaft into the clutch way easier. Your not trying to hold it into position while spinning the shaft. And as noted before if your floor board comes out it makes the job really easy. Quote
Eneto-55 Posted February 2, 2019 Report Posted February 2, 2019 (edited) On my first engine swap (for a friend, done in the basement of a bank barn in Minnesota, dirt floor) I learned a lesson the hard way. We had a stabbing shaft to align the clutch plate before installing the trannie, but still needed the guide bolts, as mentioned above. (We just bought a length of bolt stock & cut it into four pieces.) Even then we couldn't get it up in there. (We had no floor jack - had to lift it up & stab it in before our arms got too tired to hold it anymore.) We finally pulled the engine back out & mounted the trannie on the floor. Clutch failed later, and my friend had to repeat the process. He said that it went in easily. The deal was that the clutch pressure plate springs were so weak that they couldn't hold the disk in place when you ran the trannie shaft up in there. I assume that in this case that is all being rebuilt anyway, but this discussion just reminded me of that experience. Edited February 2, 2019 by Eneto-55 Quote
pflaming Posted February 3, 2019 Report Posted February 3, 2019 I also did as Jersey explained. I do the same to remove and replace the fan. And the starter on my truck. Quote
sser2 Posted February 3, 2019 Report Posted February 3, 2019 On 2/1/2019 at 2:27 PM, JerseyHarold said: I found that making a couple of guide pins makes it much easier to install the trans. Get a couple of bolts with the same thread as the original mounting bolts, then cut the heads off the longer bolts and screw them into two diagonally-located mounting holes on the bell housing. Slide the trans into position on the pins you just made, put in two regular mounting bolts, then remove the 'pin-bolts' and replace them with the correct ones. You can also cut a slot into the end of each guide pin to make removal by screwdriver easy. I use this trick on all my clutch jobs in any kind of car. Not only makes transmission installation easy and predictable, but saves you from injured shoulder cuff rotators. Don't ask me how i know. 1 Quote
canadiandeluxe Posted February 4, 2019 Author Report Posted February 4, 2019 On 2/1/2019 at 12:51 PM, 50 coupe said: Yup, just four bolts. I just took mine out. Not difficult. I did it with the car on jack stands, floor jack and crawling around on the floor. thats my plan. use a floor jack and hope it doesn't fall violently onto my arm or something stupid. Quote
canadiandeluxe Posted February 4, 2019 Author Report Posted February 4, 2019 Ok guys thanks for all the help. Hopefully this weekend when I go home again I will at least make progress if not get it completely out.? Quote
Ronnie Posted April 27 Report Posted April 27 (edited) Hey guys looking for some help and reviving this thread. I installed new rear motor mounts because the old ones were smashed away. To do so I had to take the transmission out to get the new mounts in to be able to lift the bell housing up high enough. I can now not get my transmission back into place. I have dowles in place and have the correct shaft orientation to where I can spin the transmission and the crank will turn but it seems I can only just make contact with the splines and can go no further. Edited April 27 by Ronnie Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted April 27 Report Posted April 27 (edited) Sometimes you have to sprinkle chicken blood around the shop and offer up certain incantations to get the final fit. But if no chicken blood is available keep raising and lowering the tranny a little at a time, most likely you have not yet inserted the shaft into the pilot bearing. It has to be just right. With new mounts the tranny will probably be a tighter fit up against the transmission tunnel than before. Patience. New mounts can sometimes alter the shifter geometry enough to make it impossible to engage all gears. Just go through the shifter adjustment procedure in the service manual to restore proper shifting if this is a problem. Edited April 27 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote
Ronnie Posted April 27 Report Posted April 27 At this point I'm ready to find some chickens. I've lowered/raised the transmission, shifted dowels to different positions. I've installed many transmissions but this is the first for the 48 and man it's humbling me. Quote
Dave72dt Posted April 27 Report Posted April 27 You may have a degraded front mount also. Unless it's been replaced recently it's probably in the same condition as the rear mounts were and it might be angling the bellhousing up. Quote
Sniper Posted April 27 Report Posted April 27 Have someone step on the clutch (you need the clutch pedal working) while trying to install. This will release the clutch and allow the disc to move and align to the shaft and should seat the trans. 2 Quote
Ronnie Posted April 27 Report Posted April 27 I've jacked up the front of the engine to compensate for the raised back end at various levels and still nothing. I just can't get it to budge. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted April 27 Report Posted April 27 Trying to think of everything that could possibly bind. Splines not aligned with the clutch disc? Nose of shaft not going into the pilot bearing? Could the release bearing get dislodged somehow and prevent the bearing cover from going though it? Trans and engine not precisely aligned? Trans tunnel not allowing proper alignment? Do you have the floor pan out of the car? The transmission is much easier to maneuver when working from above. That's about all I can come up with. The last time I installed the trans in my P15 it fought me for awhile but finally went into place. I don't know exactly what I did, just kept messing with it..................... Quote
Ronnie Posted April 27 Report Posted April 27 Floor pan out Have help trying to muscle from up top and below Matched up splines Greased the transmission shaft Greased the dowel pins Made sure throwout bearing is moving smoothly Turned the crank while wiggling engine in Adjusted angle as best as possible with leveler and jack under tranny Jacked up from end to several different heights to find the alignment from the new raised mounts. Gentle but assertive wiggling Yelled every curse word I don't have children so I offered the dogs as sacrifice I've even taken everything out inspected the splines on tranny for any scratches or burs and nothing is obvious. 10 hours total so far so it's time to walk away again. 1 Quote
Los_Control Posted April 27 Report Posted April 27 Just some thoughts here .... you pulled the transmission to replace the mounts .... what condition is the clutch pressure plate in .... did you inspect any of it while you have the trans out? Is it possible you knocked the pilot bearing out of position removing the trans? ... now it is not allowing the trans to go back in ... did you insert your trusty little clutch alignment tool to see it goes in? Sometimes when things do not go as planned, I wonder if I do not have a little Angel sitting on my shoulder saying no no no, you are not going to do this. Unless I know the condition and the miles on the clutch components, I would pull the bellhousing and inspect everything .... then proceed with re-installation as if I was installing a new clutch ..... and it may be your Angel sitting on your shoulder guiding you this way .... so you do not have to take it all apart again next week .... Of course chicken blood spread around the outside of the shop has been known to keep those pesky little Angels away Quote
DJ194950 Posted April 28 Report Posted April 28 Throw out bearing cocked out of line with the imput trans shaft. They can sometimes be a real Bit_h ? Just a thought. DJ Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted April 28 Report Posted April 28 (edited) 12 minutes ago, DJ194950 said: Throw out bearing cocked out of line with the imput trans shaft. They can sometimes be a real Bit_h ? Just a thought. DJ I mentioned that earlier and I agree that is a likely issue. Wouldn't have to be misaligned much to bind up everything. Edited April 28 by Sam Buchanan Quote
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