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sser2

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  1. sser2

    leaf springs

    sser2 replied to JSabah's topic in P15-D24 Forum

    Rubber bushings and silent blocks for these springs are readily available. There is a spring lubricator attachment to grease gun to lubricate springs if the sheathing is still intact. If spring is intact (no broken leaves), don't remove the sheathing. It keeps dust out and grease in.
  2. sser2
    FSM specifies the length of front and rear shoe linings. For '38-39, front linings are 10 9/32 and rear linings are 7 11/16 for both front and rear axle. Using the recommended lining length is very important because these lengths, together with wheel cylinder front and rear diameters, determine the front-rear proportion of braking forces. If this proportion is incorrect, either braking efficiency will decrease, or, which is much more dangerous, rear wheels may lock before front wheels, causing loss of control during braking. In modern cars, there is a front-rear proportioning valve in the hydraulic system, but those old cars didn't have the proportioning valve, and proportioning was achieved by careful design of wheel cylinders and shoes.
  3. sser2
    Running 6V starter off 12V battery may be acceptable if engine starts flawlessly. Difficult starts will quickly overheat field coils/armature and cause starter failure. Another concern is excessive arching in starter switch and commutator causing their erosion. 6V starter has parallel connection of windings, which, with little ingenuity, can be modified to series connection for 12V operation.
  4. sser2
    Seal shaft diameter 1.734", outside diameter 2.726", width 0.500". National /Timken part #5836, Victor #49237, Mopar 668479. Check for wear groove on the shaft surface, this could be a cause of seal leakage. There is also felt dust washer that seals backing plate, check if it is in good condition. If linings are impregnated with grease, replace them, do not attempt cleaning.
  5. sser2
    According to FSM, up to 0.03" can be removed. If more turning is needed, a drum should be replaced.
  6. sser2
    It is 1:4.3.
  7. sser2
    Cturboaddict: i have a pdf service manual, but cannot append it to a pm because it is 13+ mb, but only 3 mb is allowed. I will try to make a smaller pdf of the relevant chapter and send it to your forum mailbox.
  8. sser2
    Frame alignment charts and measuring procedures are in the factory service manual. Did you try to settle springs without shocks? If pass. side spring hits something when you jack up the wheel, and won't flex any further, it is very important to determine what stops the flexing.
  9. sser2
    Yes, the FSM was for pro mechanics who were supposed to know torquing specs of standard fasteners.
  10. sser2
    Thanks. Looking at PCV arrangement in modern cars, I see deflection baffles and oil traps to capture larger oil droplets. I am not a fan of draft tube. The bulkhead and floor panels are not exactly airtight, so cabin gets a whiff of crankcase gas coming out of draft tube. That nostalgic smell of old cars that I'd rather not have.
  11. sser2
    Adam - what was particularly wrong?
  12. sser2
    Choose a PCV valve from engine with similar displacement, and it should work with no problems. To avoid burning oil, the valve should be placed high above sump, and connecting tube below the valve filled with steel wool.
  13. sser2
    Most of the time a car is coming your way and you develop love relationship with it. In my case, however, I knew what I wanted before starting search. I have particular affection for '37 body style. Previous years' cars were too boxy, and following years flattening tendency started, culminating in 60s-70s styles that I particularly dislike. From engineering standpoint, Mopar was superior to GMC and Ford. Of all Mopars, Plymouth was made in highest numbers, which is helpful for parts availability. 4 door cars were decidedly uncool, so I wanted 2 door. I also preferred sedan to coupe, as I like to travel in a good company. I would prefer a fastback sedan with no luggage hump, but, unfortunately, those are rare.
  14. sser2
    Helo!
  15. sser2
    They often appear on eBay. Drag link kit Drag link Tie rod end set
  16. sser2
    Welcome to the forum. Free play in drag link and tie rod ends can be easily diagnosed by holding a joint and letting someone turn steering wheel side to side, so do this test before ordering spares. Worn kingpins and wheel bearings could also promote wheel shimmy. Raise front wheel and check for free play by shaking wheel up and down and side to side. But loose front suspension only amplifies rather than causes wheel vibration caused by tire that is out of shape or balance, so this in #1 thing to look at..
  17. sser2
    The most critical lubrication point is worm gear. It has to be lubricated with moly or synthetic grease, applied in proper place and in proper quantity. WD40 may do more harm than good in a long run.
  18. sser2
    Binding pistons in brake cylinders?
  19. sser2
    A lot of ingenuity went into this design. If you noticed, the metal strip is a convex spring with perforations. Convex shape gives it rigidity necessary to support the windshield in open position. When windshield is cranked down, the strip flattens as it rolls over drum with cogs that fit into strip's perforations. This makes a compact yet sturdy mechanism.
  20. sser2
    There's little you can do short of removing the dash panel. If it cranks easily and does not bind, I would leave it alone.
  21. sser2
    I second the opinion that it is more likely transmission than clutch. What happens to sound when you drive and change gears?
  22. sser2
    And you can always find it on eBay, just look for "fender welt".
  23. sser2
    I would like to emphasize that when upgrading to a modern aluminum radiator, it is necessary to add expansion tank to the cooling system, which, together with modern radiator cap, would effectively convert the system to sealed or pressurized one. Original Mopar radiator is not filled all the way to the top, and its upper reservoir serves as a built-in expansion tank. A vent on top prevents pressure buildup as coolant expands.
  24. sser2
    - As engine warms up, coolant expands with temperature. Because there is no air in a properly filled pressurized system, the excess coolant volume needs to go somewhere, so it is squeezed into "can", aka "expansion tank". After engine stops and cools down, coolant contracts and vacuum develops that sucks coolant back into the system from the expansion tank. I feel like I an clumsy with my explanations, so please forgive my lack of clarity.
  25. sser2
    Radiator cap does not determine pressure or temperature of the system - they are both determined by the thermostat. 180 degree thermostat will always keep coolant temperature below boiling point, so coolant cannot boil over under normal conditions, regardless of whether or not the system is pressurized or not pressurized. Radiator cap is a safety valve that relieves pressure under emergency conditions, e.g. blocked radiator, non-worning radiator fan, or faulty water pump. So, with a 7 psi cap, pressure may never reach that level during the lifetime of a car, provided that cooling system is properly maintained.
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