canadiandeluxe

Hey again guys I installed new hoses on my car all three of them for good measure. But I just fired her up and that passenger break will lock up no matter what. I barely touch the pedal and it's locked up on that corner. All other corners are operating fine. I even backed off the front shoe all the way and still just locks up no matter what speed. I think I'm going to try installed new cylinders but if that doesn't fix it any ideas?

ok ok and it was totally plugged. Very possible mine could be partially plugged up then, I think I will try the CLR flush first and see what all comes out I really dont want to pull the damn plugs I just replaced. I would like one year of just driving my old girl around

and where is this water distribution tube located as well? I Should check that out too

Manifold heat control valve? Where is this located? I'm thinking Maybe I need to do a CLR flush instead of just a water flush. I know I should have properly flushed the engine out when I had all the core plugs out but I dug as much sand out as I could and sprayed some water into the holes best I could. And it was definitely better than before. When I get it insured and driving around again I will confirm some temps and then maybe CLR flush my system Couple other points, my thermostat is new and the lower temp one, I am running a pressure cap on my rad as well, and I have never had it boil over yet so maybe im stressing over nothing.

So my old car seems to climb temp quite bad on hot days around 30C. I looked at another cooling thread and will try some of the easy things like seeing what the actual temp is on the radiator with a thermometer of some kind and see what the gauge is actually reading. I have never boiled it over and when I get going down the road it cools fine just sitting idling it seems to climb up but not horribly bad if its around 20C day. I installed a new water pump and this winter I dug as much sand out of the core plug holes as i could because they were all leaking. When I first got the car 4 years ago I flushed the rad out a bit and when I did the water pump I did a proper cooling system flush but with just water but lots of rust and junk came out. Are there any other easy things I should check. Have any guys here installed a fan in front of the rad that kicks on when you are idling, my car is still 6 volt though.

I will look into master cylinder too but I did not want to go to that right away since its only locking up the one wheel and like when I barely tough the pedal now but when it worked ok the pedal movement was as expected. I'm leaning to a bad hose or really stuck cylinder

Ok I was thanking wheel cylinders but ya I had my gf actuate the brakes as I watched and they seemed free but I did not inspected the cylinders in detail and when I got the car running 2 years ago I never took the front cylinders off when I redid the back ones and master cylinder, which all got honed and new seals. That's where I will look next then. THANKS

As far as I am aware they could be original yet that could very well be the problem. Why would coming to a complete stop be the only thing that will release them though? I guess then the shoes aren't self engaging?

My old car has been giving me issues and locking up the front passenger wheel. I stopped driving it because of this and just had time to remove the drum to inspect if anything was broken or sticking really bad, I was thinking a broken return spring maybe. So I just cleaned it up and put it back together and drove it and thought it was fixed because it was braking normal but then after about 5 stops they went bad again and the front passenger wheel locked completely up after almost no pedal input and would not unlock until car had become completely stopped. I tested again and it kept doing it over and over no matter what speed I was going. Any ideas guys? Nothing seems mechanically wrong. Would a bad cylinder cause this problem? A bad air pocket in my lines? Nothing seems physically wrong.

well ok, more orders from the states I guess. Do you guys have any any tips for removing the axles so i can reseal my diff? like any good diy things? And also also while Im here, do many of you guys have a dual circuit master cylinder with the rest of the brakes totally stock? and if so where'd you get it or what was it from?

I broke some brake return springs on my 1950 Plymouth and was wondering if anyone knows of other springs that will fit so I wont have to buy brake return springs online and pay more shipping??

Just throwing an update on this thread, Finally got the bell housing off the 218 after many weekends of wrenching. Found the leaky core plug and will replace them all for sure. It was a process to get it out though, undid the engine mounts and had to fight with built up grease around the bolt heads to even get a socket on them. So now the engine is chilling at home being held up with a floor jack waiting for me to return. It is good though because now I can clean up all the greasy parts to make it easier to reinstall. Is there anything else I should do while I have all that stuff torn apart?

This is just a curious thing as my am radio most likely doesn't work, when you gut it how much room is back there. And I was thinking about putting my stereo stuff under the front seat, Has anyone done that?

ok well I wasn't sure I will have to check next time im around a napa.

Figured I would ask this here first before making a whole new thread. Was looking at core plug sets and the ones for 34-48 are way way cheaper than the ones for 49-59 although it says the 218 Lhead flathead is in both. Did the engine change that much in those two years that the core plugs would be different?

Man as a new guy to flatheads here i sure can say i am overwhelmed now. HOLY

So are there multiple dual carb intake manifolds out there to buy pre-made, or do you guys end up like making your own intakes? Just curious because im going to put a split manifold on my old car and would like it paired with an intake some day.

I need to do plugs in the back of my engine and Im wondering where to find those style of core plug? Can you just get them at a NAPA or similar?

Ok guys thanks for all the help. Hopefully this weekend when I go home again I will at least make progress if not get it completely out.?

thats my plan. use a floor jack and hope it doesn't fall violently onto my arm or something stupid.

Ok so i need to take out the transmission out of my 50 special deluxe and the book doesn't really tell me how to do it all that well, One of my teachers said there might only be like four bolts holding it to the separate bell housing thing. Because I was looking at it and was kind of confused as to how to take it out. i also am just going to assume without the bell housing it will clear the cross-member because it is welded in place? Any tips are welcome.

Ok I figured I would have to pull the clutch and all that. Might just get clutch kit too so that I can have the aligning tool to get my clutch back on properly. And I guess I will get a new throw-out bearing too.

Also have any of you guys messed around with 6 to 12V converters at all because when I get there I'm thinking about running some accessories off of that and a small battery for some cushion. And this is random but even the old vacuum wipers still work on the old girl so I'm glad I don't have to mess with that.

Ya im guessing its a freeze plug too, do you have to pull the clutch and flywheel to get to the plugs too? I guess that way I can get a look at my clutch and stuff. If I have to take my clutch off I will need an aligning tool too. I would rather not gunk of my old cooling system with radiator sealant. And if definetly leaks too much to just leave it, I don't want my clutch to be in a water bath.