Bill Parsons

Thank you guys for the info! I did not know about how NPT works. I think googling this will help me going forward.

This is my fuel pump. The engine is not original to the truck and comes from a desoto. If you look at the specs, you will see that it is 1/8".

So this is normal? 5/16" steel and 5/16" tube connecting to a 1/8" connection on the carb and pump? I also failed to add that the steel line between the fuel pump and the carb is also 5/16" with reducers at both ends.

After recently rebuilding my fuel pump, I noticed some perceived oddities with the fuel supply as I was reinstalling it. I have never done any work on a fuel supply line before so this is all new territory for me. This may be a stupid question, but is the fuel supply line supposed to be the same size from the gas tank to the carb? The gas tank line is a steel 5/16" line that ends near the frame. Then a 5/16" rubber hose is clamped onto the end of that. What I don't understand is why both the fuel pump inlet and outlet lines are 1/8" as well as the carb inlet. Is that the way it usually is? The rubber hose goes onto a reducer barb that screws into the fuel pump, and two more reducers on the pump outlet to the steel line and the inlet to the carb.

Thanks, Dodgeb4ya. My truck has the engine from a 53 desoto in it. I'm assuming that's why nothing is matching on the parking brake.

I do not have the parts book, only the shop manual. The shop manual has two pictures of the parking brake setup; one with a loop on the end of the hand brake rod, and one without. I do not have that loop, nor a round rod as pictured.

Is my 54 c1b supposed to have a return spring on the parking brake? I don't see anywhere to attach it on the mechanism nor do I see anywhere to attach it to the frame.

I'm feeling pretty stupid here, but I can't get the seat out of my 54. I've pulled and tugged and scratched my head. I want to take the pads to an upholsterer but I can't get past step 1. Can somebody provide a video of them doing it? I've read others' instructions on it and they make it sound like it should release with a simple pull. Frustrated, -Bill

Two hour drive away... hmm

So what are my hubs from?

When I bought my 1954 C1, it had one hubcap that looked like this, with the Dodge logo stylistically written in red. The other three hubcaps are the same shape, only lacking the logo. They are smooth, but blank. Which, if either, are the true factory hubcaps?

I was wondering if this was just an old engine thing. What did the old timers do if they needed to be somewhere in a hurry? -Bill

When the engine hasn't been allowed to get up to operating temp, the engine dies if I stomp the gas (clutch in). If I let it get up to operating temperature, it doesn't occur. It also doesn't occur if I slowly increase the RPMs, only when it is sudden. Thoughts?

Those are fiberglass. I'd rather avoid fiberglass if I can. -Bill

The running boards on my '54 1/2 ton were poorly repaired at the door openings by a previous owner. However, the part of the running boards that extend beyond the end of the cab to the rear fender is in great shape. Being that the 54 running boards are dimpled and not ridged like other years, finding replacements has been thus far fruitless. I managed to get my hands on a pair of dimpled fenders from a '54 2 ton in great condition. How difficult would it be to fabricate the two together? Am I wasting my time on this? -Bill