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LMBoise last won the day on July 2

LMBoise had the most liked content!

About LMBoise

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • My Project Cars
    1948 B1B

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  • Biography
    Not much to say
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  • Location
    Boise, Idaho
  • Interests
    Cars, horses, fishing and camping.

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  1. I tried cutting a grade 8 bolt to length and could not get the die to grip. It seems that above the threads, the bolt is to thick to thread. How,did you get the die started? The local auto part store does not carry anything long enough for the two studs that go through the thickest part of the manifold. Thanks.
  2. Anyone have a good source for manifold studs. I have all of them except for the two longer ones. I think they are 3/8 16 x 3/8 24 but need to be close to 3” long for the longer ones.
  3. Sorry to resurrect an old post but…… How hard was it to get the actual e brake drum off once you got the nut removed. I am swapping out brakes from a donor truck and trying to get a feel for how big a project I am in for. Thanks!
  4. That might be an option! Much easier to work on stuff now. Too old to be bending, climbing over fenders.
  5. After having been on this site for a few years and asking lots of questions, I finally made some progress today. Dropped the engine back into the frame. The frame was media blasted and powder coated. The cab is mostly done, with the inside and engine bay painted. Once I get it back on it needs a guide coat then will be ready for final paint. Doors and fenders are also ready for a guide coat. Up next is the wiring and plumbing while it is opened up. I rebuilt the engine, but want to get it running prior to to putting the cab back on. Still lots to do, but some light at the end of
  6. Perfect, thanks for the feedback.
  7. I am getting ready to put the engine back in the 48 B1B. As with most things, this project has taken much longer than I thought and I forget what was there when I pulled the engine. I cannot remember if the front engine mount bracket that attaches to the frame has any rubber mounts between the frame and bracket. I do not see any in the shop manual, but would think there would be some type of rubber mount. Thanks for the help!
  8. Great suggestion on the spring bolts, thanks! Very interesting to hear the background on the tank. Thanks for leading this effort. This is going to save me a lot of frustration trying to repair the old tank.
  9. Thanks. I dug deeper into the Tanks Inc. web site and they have pictures of the bracket and explain how it attaches. Your picture is spot on. It seems that is the way to go. Reasonably priced and the mod seems very straight forward. I will need to put together new spring bolts as the old ones were rusted solid, no way to salvage.
  10. Thanks for the feedback! Decisions, decisions! Rehab the old tank, spend $560 for new to fit the ‘48 or do the one for a ‘47, make a few changes to it for $260. Thanks again, at least I have a few options!
  11. Sorry to resurrect an old post, but I could not find a another post that answered my question. Will the tank from Tanks Inc fit a 1948 B1B pilot house? Finally getting back to the restoration process, frame powder coated and springs/axles reinstalled last week. I hope to make progress this winter. Body work on the cab is completed with paint on the inside done. Thanks for the help!
  12. Mine came out of Caldwell, Idaho. It was in relatively good shape. The floor pans were rusted out and the engine was seized. With the help of a friend, we tore it all the way down to the frame. The engine has been rebuilt and the vast majority of the body work is done. Now putting it back together.
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