busycoupe
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Everything posted by busycoupe
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I think that the P15's and D24's had them, but they were probably lost over the years as mechanics took them off for access to the engines.
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I worked in gas stations part time from 1971 to 1981 while I was in college, then teaching school after graduation. I loved it, and briefly considered going into the buisiness and getting my own station, until I realized that my livelyhood would depend on the reliability of high school kids! The gas crisis of '73-'74 was an interesting time to be a pump jockey, the business changed after that. Gone were the green stamps and free glasses of the late sixties. Maybe it was me getting older, but the business seemed to take a more serious turn.
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The speedometer has an oiling hole on the back. You can try putting few drops of very light weight oil into the speedo to see if helps. I used a zoom spout oiler to reach up behind the speedo.
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If the fluid drive is very low on fluid it will slip, not bog down the engine. Since the car has sat for a number of years and bogs down the engine when you try to drive it, I suspect that the brakes are siezed up.
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You're lucky to have a cat that coordinates with the upholstery?
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When I taught high school science, we had metal poles with tapered ends that would fit into tapered sockets in the lab tables. Perhaps this socket drive was made to fit into a tapered socket on something like a wrecker or fire truck. ...???
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You could check to see if a fluid drive coupling is in place, or if it has been removed. Lift the carpet on the right side of the transmision tunnel and remove the access panel on the passenger side of the hump. You should see the fluid drive unit if one is installed.
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I've got a tripod jack, like the one shown, in the trunk of my car. I don't intend to use it, although it would probably be more useable than a bumper jack.
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The lower jack in the original picture appears to have the foot on the wrong end of the post.
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I'm very sorryto hear this. I visited his Wheels Through Time museum in 2007. We were there in April in the off season. It is a large place, maybe 20,000 sq. ft. with a wide walkway that runs around the inside of the museum. We were looking at a beautifully restored 1905 HD when Dale walked over. I asked him if it runs. His answer was to jump on it, kick it into action and procede to ride it around inside the museum. A little later he fired up a 1940 Crocker and took it for an indoor lap. Quite the character, sorry to hear of his passing.
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I am 68 and last year the arthritis pain in my hands and wrists was keeping me from working on my car or anything else. Then in June my doctor told me I had diabetes and prescibed pills, weight loss and diet change. Now I have lost 25 pounds, am taking my meds, and have no pain in my hands or other joints. It is like a new lease on life.
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I just had my second shot a week ago. Felt pretty punk fora day or so, but that was much better thangetting shingles. I've had several freinds suffer with it, and really don't want to get it.
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I usually like to listen to the sounds of the motor and the road. But sometimes I throw in a cd of big band tunes. It just seems appropriate for a '40s car. -
My gauge did this until I replaced the voltage regulator. All has been well since then. Listen to the regulator, you may be able to heat it click.
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Ethanol free gas is not available in Massachusets so I have got in the habit of adding Startron fuel stabilizer to every tank of fuel. I do not drive the car very much, and I never know if the last tank full is going to be the one that will sit for winter. I use the same treatment for my motorcycle, mower and snowblower. After ten years of this regimen I have not had any problems with bad gas.
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No drive for us forum members in the NE today! The white blob behind my car is my '05 Ford Ranger under a foot+ of snow.
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The rubber seal bolts to the back of the block. An engine made to use a rope seal may not have the tapped holes necessary to attach the rubber seal. ... something to check.
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Bernbaum sells reproduction hubcap skins. you could re-do them yourself.
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I've used one of those cut-off switches for over 10 years with no problems. Several times after starting the car I have put my hand on the switch to seeif it was warm, but it was just as cool as the cables. I think that clean connection and properly sized cables aremore important.
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a couple of years ago I bought a kit to rebuild a stromberg carb. The kit came with a needle and seat similar to what you show, except that the rubber tip was more cone shaped. I could not get it to seal properly and replaced it with my old brass needle and seat that was still in good shape.
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There are left and right units. The unit that fits the left front door also fit the right rear door that hinges on the front edge. Vice- versa, right front andleft rear. Carefully compare the cams on the latches to your door and you should be able to figure it out.
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In the parts book it shows a weatherstrip and a welt on the inside of the glass. Perhaps this is what you (and I) need.
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My D24 does not seem to have this piece, although my can cannot be considered to be unmolested. When I replaced the windshield 12 yrs ago I do not remember seeing anything like that. Apparently it is not necessary.
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Sniper is right, there is no best supplier. Many common mechanical and electricalparts can be had at your local auto parts store or online from Rock Auto. Your local store may not stock the parts but can order them and get them in a couple of days. There sre several suppliers listed on the links pull down menu at the top of this page. Then for more unusual parrs there are vendors on ebay. The internet is your friend.
