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plymouthfury

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  • Content Count

    11
  • Joined

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About plymouthfury

  • Rank
    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Carolina
  • My Project Cars
    1953 Plymouth Cranbrook

Converted

  • Location
    Hickory, NC
  • Interests
    Old stuff
  1. I figured if anything the engine would over rev with low fluid. The car has new brakes and easily rolls without any apparent dragging. Just got to dive into it and start troubleshooting. Not looking forward to fixing the leak however. It’s leaking pretty badly so I’m assuming the worst.
  2. Well obviously the leaking unit isn’t helping anything but will the low fluid level cause the engine to stall when trying to drive? Though reverse seems to function better. Was looking for some insight of what would cause a massive leak and parts availability before I start tearing stuff apart. I’ve had many fluid drive cars that never had any problems. This is the first one that let me down! Chrysler did have overdrive and I have the engine and transmission out of one that was being turned into a “hot rod” by some other guy. Wondering if the coupling is the same as the 41 Dodge sh
  3. I have a 1941 Dodge with fluid drive that sat for many years. Engine runs excellent and car can be put into gear and engine doesn’t stall when letting clutch out. Fluid drive appears to function but when trying to move the car it doesn’t want to move and the engine seems to struggle and after about 20 feet the engine starts bogging down and eventually stalls unless you let off the gas. Basically the car is undrivable. I did discover that it appears the fluid drive coupling must be leaking severely. It leaves a nice trail and puddle and drips quite a bit out of the bellhousi
  4. Popped the cover off and pulled the sending unit. Inside of the tank looks practically new. No varnish or sludge. There is some dirt/debris gathered in a couple small areas.
  5. The gas gauge does work. I'll definitely try to be careful in removing the unit!
  6. The previous owner owned the car for 5 years and put probably 800 miles on the car in that time. Before that he said it was stored for a while. Its a California car and everything looks brand new underneath. The gas tank is still shiny and clean. (Atleast on the outside that is). I've just been driving the car daily to try and find and fix any problems that turn up. The car runs great...except with this stumbling issue occurs. I figure I'd go ahead replace all the normal service items. but even those are hard to come by it seems. Whats the best source for ignition parts? The parts ho
  7. The straight 8 is totally different in about every way it seems. Nothing interchanges with the flat 6. I can't find much of any parts at the parts houses. For example they list two types of distributor caps...but one photo shows a 6cyl cap...obviously their system isn't correct. I plan on replacing all the soft lines for good measure. I've seen small cracks cause the pump to start sucking air and cause similar issues. I haven't dropped the tank or anything like that yet. I first wanted to get some opinions before I tear the car apart! I'll look into this antique auto parts cellar.
  8. I have a 1949 Chrysler NewYorker thats equipped with a straight 8 and fluid drive. The car is pretty much original and untouched. Recently I started having some problems. I tried researching on the forums but didn't find anything that was like my problem unless I missed it. I've been driving the daily for a few months. A few weeks ago...one day after leaving the house and heading up a slight hill the car started bucking as if the car was starving for fuel. I kept her going by pushing the clutch in and revving the engine up before letting the clutch back out. I had to do this several times
  9. I looked over the car today and compared it with the parts car. The carb is not the original type. The wiring harness was totally bypassed and a hole punched in the firewall for some newer wiring. The wiring is total garbage and is nearly impossible to follow. I'm not even sure if the car was ever really drivable. Some people should not ever mess with cars. Now I got to just rip everything out and redo all the wiring and other things. I think I will look into putting in a standard 3 speed in place of the fluid drive.
  10. I've read up on the fluid drives. I haven't looked into the wiring schematic yet. But will running 12 volts have any negative effect on the solenoids and whatnot associated with the fluid drive? I can't seem to find anyone that says Yes. or No. with 100% certainty! I plan on trying to get the car drivable with the original drivetrain first and see if the thing works. But I have to rewire the car before I can even attempt that. The wiring is a MESS. What I was wondering is if the fluid drive can be eliminated completely and just a standard clutch used? Basically using the whole set
  11. I've recently picked up a '47 DeSoto coupe and a '48 coupe parts car. It appears that my DeSoto is equipped with the semi-auto fluid drive transmission. The shifter does not go into what would be first gear. Also the top cover is removed from the floor and I can see wires and solenoids. Someone put an alternator on the car at some point...and the wiring looks like it could start a fire at any given moment. I havent got the car started yet. But I know the wiring all needs to be ripped out and redone. Would the fluid drive trans work with 12 volts? I tried doing some research but I h
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