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plymouthfury

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Carolina
  • My Project Cars
    1953 Plymouth Cranbrook

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  • Location
    Hickory, NC
  • Interests
    Old stuff
  1. I figured if anything the engine would over rev with low fluid. The car has new brakes and easily rolls without any apparent dragging. Just got to dive into it and start troubleshooting. Not looking forward to fixing the leak however. It’s leaking pretty badly so I’m assuming the worst.
  2. Well obviously the leaking unit isn’t helping anything but will the low fluid level cause the engine to stall when trying to drive? Though reverse seems to function better. Was looking for some insight of what would cause a massive leak and parts availability before I start tearing stuff apart. I’ve had many fluid drive cars that never had any problems. This is the first one that let me down! Chrysler did have overdrive and I have the engine and transmission out of one that was being turned into a “hot rod” by some other guy. Wondering if the coupling is the same as the 41 Dodge should I need parts.
  3. I have a 1941 Dodge with fluid drive that sat for many years. Engine runs excellent and car can be put into gear and engine doesn’t stall when letting clutch out. Fluid drive appears to function but when trying to move the car it doesn’t want to move and the engine seems to struggle and after about 20 feet the engine starts bogging down and eventually stalls unless you let off the gas. Basically the car is undrivable. I did discover that it appears the fluid drive coupling must be leaking severely. It leaves a nice trail and puddle and drips quite a bit out of the bellhousing while the car is running. Some insight on potential causes for the stalling and fixing the leak would be helpful before I delve into it. I do have a 1939 Chrysler 6 with OD trans. Are the fluid drive components the same between the two?
  4. Popped the cover off and pulled the sending unit. Inside of the tank looks practically new. No varnish or sludge. There is some dirt/debris gathered in a couple small areas.
  5. The gas gauge does work. I'll definitely try to be careful in removing the unit!
  6. The previous owner owned the car for 5 years and put probably 800 miles on the car in that time. Before that he said it was stored for a while. Its a California car and everything looks brand new underneath. The gas tank is still shiny and clean. (Atleast on the outside that is). I've just been driving the car daily to try and find and fix any problems that turn up. The car runs great...except with this stumbling issue occurs. I figure I'd go ahead replace all the normal service items. but even those are hard to come by it seems. Whats the best source for ignition parts? The parts houses have shoddy infomation or have nothing. My late 50s MoPars are a bit easier to get parts for. See I've had the problem when the car was cold as well. And the car starts right back up and idles. My best guess is the fuel. Clogging, failing pump, leak, etc. It is always under load and usually uphill. As far as opening up the tank. Does that mean cutting it apart or what?
  7. The straight 8 is totally different in about every way it seems. Nothing interchanges with the flat 6. I can't find much of any parts at the parts houses. For example they list two types of distributor caps...but one photo shows a 6cyl cap...obviously their system isn't correct. I plan on replacing all the soft lines for good measure. I've seen small cracks cause the pump to start sucking air and cause similar issues. I haven't dropped the tank or anything like that yet. I first wanted to get some opinions before I tear the car apart! I'll look into this antique auto parts cellar.
  8. I have a 1949 Chrysler NewYorker thats equipped with a straight 8 and fluid drive. The car is pretty much original and untouched. Recently I started having some problems. I tried researching on the forums but didn't find anything that was like my problem unless I missed it. I've been driving the daily for a few months. A few weeks ago...one day after leaving the house and heading up a slight hill the car started bucking as if the car was starving for fuel. I kept her going by pushing the clutch in and revving the engine up before letting the clutch back out. I had to do this several times to prevent stalling on the hill and blocking traffic. By the time I got the car to a parking lot the problem was gone. And the car idled and drove fine. I continued driving the car daily for a few more weeks when two days ago the issue happened again after taking the car on a 2 hour drive. I made a turn up a slight incline after sitting at a stoplight and she started acting up. I pushed in the clutch and started tapping the throttle and after 3-4 pumps the motor would pick back up. Again i would have to push in the clutch and pump the gas to keep the car running and ride the clutch. I did this several times before the car started running properly again. I made it to the destination and parked... after probably an hour I got back in the car and proceeded to make the 2 hour drive back. I didn't seem to have any problems. After 1.5 hours of driving I stopped and parked. The car sat for probably 20 minutes. I fired the car up and as soon as I pulled onto the highway...slightly up hill...the car started bucking. This time however there was no keeping the car moving. I had to pull off the road into the grass and she died. She started right up without much trouble. But as soon as I tried moving the car would start stalling. I did get her into a parking lot but then I couldn't get the problem to show up. The car idled fine. She was getting fuel and spark. I then made the 40 minute drive back home and had a few instances where she'd start bucking but she'd smooth out and run fine. I tried a full throttle acceleration and she would act as if not getting fuel and start sputtering and losing power then pick back up and start dying then pick back up. The car is a bit hard to start when hot and you can really smell the gas after shutting down after a drive. It also seems that the fuel drains from the carb after the car sits overnight. It kinda led me to believe that there was a fuel pump issue. Maybe an ignition issue as well. Any other ideas? I figured I'd do a full tune up on the car and replace the fuel pump. Rebuild the carb. Check the fuel lines for cracks and add an inline fuel filter. Currently there isn't one. Also maybe drop the tank and check for trash and whatnot. Where can I get a fuel pump for a Chrysler straight 8? Or a rebuild kit? They seem to be non existant. Also what about ignition parts? Where can I source a carb rebuild kit as well? I also need a water pump as this one is a bit worn out. Thanks
  9. I looked over the car today and compared it with the parts car. The carb is not the original type. The wiring harness was totally bypassed and a hole punched in the firewall for some newer wiring. The wiring is total garbage and is nearly impossible to follow. I'm not even sure if the car was ever really drivable. Some people should not ever mess with cars. Now I got to just rip everything out and redo all the wiring and other things. I think I will look into putting in a standard 3 speed in place of the fluid drive.
  10. I've read up on the fluid drives. I haven't looked into the wiring schematic yet. But will running 12 volts have any negative effect on the solenoids and whatnot associated with the fluid drive? I can't seem to find anyone that says Yes. or No. with 100% certainty! I plan on trying to get the car drivable with the original drivetrain first and see if the thing works. But I have to rewire the car before I can even attempt that. The wiring is a MESS. What I was wondering is if the fluid drive can be eliminated completely and just a standard clutch used? Basically using the whole setup out of a Plymouth for example. And if running 12 volts makes any difference.
  11. I've recently picked up a '47 DeSoto coupe and a '48 coupe parts car. It appears that my DeSoto is equipped with the semi-auto fluid drive transmission. The shifter does not go into what would be first gear. Also the top cover is removed from the floor and I can see wires and solenoids. Someone put an alternator on the car at some point...and the wiring looks like it could start a fire at any given moment. I havent got the car started yet. But I know the wiring all needs to be ripped out and redone. Would the fluid drive trans work with 12 volts? I tried doing some research but I haven't got any definitive answers. Do the Chrysler/DeSoto flathead 6's have the same bellhousing pattern as the Plymouth/Dodge versions? So one could bolt a standard 3 speed out of a flathead Plymouth/Dodge onto a Chrysler/DeSoto 6? Are flywheels interchangeable between the two? I figure I might would just go that route and swap in a standard 3 speed. I'm guessing some mods to the driveshaft and crossmember might be needed since the whole setup would be shorter? I guess a 3spd OD would be another option. Thanks
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