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Marcel Backs

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Marcel Backs last won the day on March 4 2021

Marcel Backs had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Dodge D14 Deluxe Business Coupe

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  • Biography
    retired from fire service
  • Occupation


  • Location
  • Interests
    woking on my dodge and driving my 39 Chevrolet Master 85that I have owned since the age of 13. I amo

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  1. Are the halogens wired directly or through a headlight relay of some sort?
  2. A good set of nitrogen filled direct bolt on shocks which are around 300$ plus install (which is very easy ). It is probably the most gentle option on your wallet and time considerations. Also check if it is time for a front end rebuild which is essential for the front end assembly to work effectively with the shocks. M
  3. Don"t bother 30W looks exactly like what you put on your salad! LOL
  4. The estimate above is pretty much in line with what it cost me about 3 years ago for American parts, machining and re-assembly. Make sure you are using parts from a reputable US manufacturer when you are rebuilding. The reliability of the final product depends on it. M
  5. I think Castrol has a new oil for older engines called Classic with extra zinc. How essential (if at all) is zinc content in oil for the flathead sixes? I use 30W in the Chevvy and that is what has been used for decades in it. If I rebuilt that 235 OHV 6, I would use a good modern oil and possibly even a synthetic blend. Regular non-detergent oil is getting expensive and harder to get. M
  6. I got all of my signal lights and bumper bracket mounts in NOS on ebay. Good brands to look for are Guide and Federal Mogul because they are of very nice quality. The selection available is excellent. My front lights will mont on the bumper brackets and the rear ones are mountable on the rear bumper gravel shield. wiring up the signals is a pretty easy task. Lots of wire should be on hand. Make sure your final set up is properly fused. With all the dummies on their cell phones and texting while driving, good signals are a must in order to keep some form of safety margin. All the Best M
  7. you mix Aqua Kleen half with water and spray it on with a garden sprayer. It wipes out caked on petroleum crap in short order. You need only go to the KBS website and see how their products are applied and work. Cheers mate! M
  8. Check out KBS Coatings. Their Aqua Clean de-greaser, KBS Blast surface treatment and Rust Seal paint are second to none. The final finish is bulletproof and rust is completely arrested. I am using this system on my D-14 with great success. I get it up here at NAPA M
  9. It seems that your flanges are not seating themselves properly at the manifold outlet. A flat heat resistant gasket should be enough to seal up the exhaust pipe/ manifold flange junction. The engine sounds pretty good. It is important to have your fuel-air mixture right before extended periods of running to avoid carbon build up in combustion chambers and plugs. The plugs should be tan at the electrodes and not black. You should have a good feeling of accomplishment at this point! M
  10. Is the plug actually wet with oil or does it have sut built up on it? 2different situations and hopefully the latter. Best to find out what is fouling plugs prior to running the engine for any amount of time.
  11. That car will be beautiful to run around in when on the road. It is definitely a solid old mopar and a very worthwhile model for what you want to do with it. When buying parts for the engine, stick with American made current parts (eg Sealed Power engine parts) or New Old Stock parts. The reproduction replacement parts suffer from many quality issues due to cheapo production methods and inferior materials used at the factories in the eastern hemisphere. Fixing an 80 year old car will give you an extreme rush of accomplishment, especially when you head out on the highway! M
  12. Hey L_C I'll trade you my little frozen paradise up here in Qc for West Texas any day! LOLOL
  13. At 5.9 cents a Kwh here, my primary heat sources are air to air heat pumps. I have had both units keeping my house and garage heated and cooled for a good 10 years now costing me a couple hundred dollars in hydro every two months (including the rest of hydro usage). With the price of fuel going through the roof, putting your home heating on the electrical grid is becoming more economical in many areas. I have never had any problems with breakdowns and my 24000 BTU unit in my house is also wired into the Generac 11 Kw stand-by unit. It swings between approximately -30 Degrees C in the winter and +30 C in the summertime with 80% humidity. I rarely have to help out the heat pump with one of my 3 other sources except for a few nights in the winter when the mercury dips to the extreme. If your region in North America has good hydro rates, these heat pumps will save you money. We have more than a foot of snow on the ground from over night an it is not letting off until late Saturday. I will need to do some snow removal pretty soon since my laneway looks like a quagmire ! Luckily the Polaris SxS is sitting in the garage and has a heater and a beverage holder! I envy you folks in warmer climate right now. At least I have a never ending list of things to do in the garage. Best to everyone M
  14. Everything just fits together perfectly on that car! Makes me very anxious to get mine to that stage. This fine ride is reminiscent of the song "Copper Head Road"! M
  15. I think that the export models had 25 inch heads and the American market cars had 23 inch head engines as the 218 has in my D-14. One thing for sure, the 1940 D-14 and D-15 are completely different with very little parts interchange opportunities.
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