busycoupe
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Posts
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Everything posted by busycoupe
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Sniper is right, there is no best supplier. Many common mechanical and electricalparts can be had at your local auto parts store or online from Rock Auto. Your local store may not stock the parts but can order them and get them in a couple of days. There sre several suppliers listed on the links pull down menu at the top of this page. Then for more unusual parrs there are vendors on ebay. The internet is your friend.
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But Tim, now YOU are the old guard!
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It was cloudy here last night, but there was a break in the clouds on the horizon tonight around 6 pm. We got a good look. Perhaps again tomorrow.
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I second what Loren said. In 2008 I replaced the headliner in my coupe. I used a pre-made headliner from Hircsh. It came out pretty good, but not anything like a professional job. If I were to do it again I would take it to an upholstery shop.
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I think that the weak spring will not seat the points solidly causing the coil to not saturate thus causing a weak spark or a miss. This would show up as an engine that runs rough or skips at speed.
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There have been discussions on this site about modern points sets having weak springs. That could cause point float that will cause the problem you describe. Another possibility is that the engine is running out of fuel. Did you check fuel flow? What about the fuel filter?
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My meter has agreen lead (positive) and a black lead (negative) I connect negative to the distributer side of the coil, and positve to a good ground; usually the positive battery post. Just opposite of what is shown in the diagram.
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i have a sears dwell meterfrom the 70's with twoleads as you describe. The instructions say that it is for 12 volts neg. ground, but I connect as you describe and it works fine on my 6volt positive ground car wit no extra battery needed.
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I'd say youhave it about 180 deg. off from what it should be.
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is the pic of your old gasket flipped? It looks like the holes on the right end match the lower pic.
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Andy, that piece is a brass fitting that connects the two hard lines together. I suspect that the short section coming fromthe block originally connected a flexible connection. At some point the line going to the gaugd was replaced and the flexible line left out. Thanks for looking, Dave
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Thanks!
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I looked at the oil gauge tube again. The line coming from the engine does not have a fexible rubber section. just solid steel line the engine to the gauge. The spring set-up show above apparently provides enough give to keep the line from cracking. I have been driving it for 12 years with no problem. Still, I think that I will replace it wth a new linw with a flexible link.
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interesting that you should ask. I crawled back under the dash for asecond look. That is the way the car was when I bought it, but after looking at it again I have to say that it doesn't look factory. The hooks on the ends of the spring are bent copper wire and it hooks onto hand bent thin brass; one of which you can see in the photo. I'm not sure if it is necessary, but I am going to leave it there.
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on my 48 D24 coupe there is a brace from the bottom edge of the cowl to the bottom of thr dashboard just above where the steering column bolts on.
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I had mine painted at Maaco 10 yrs ago. I couldn't afford to have it stripped down to metal so they sanded it, applied a high build sanding primer, sanded it again then applied color and clear coat. That work plus a couple of body filler repairs cost $3000. It has been garaged since and still looks pretty good, although it it starting to get little bumps on the surface ftom the layers underneath. I was happy with it at the time, and am still happy with it now. To keep the cost down I removed all of the trim, grill, bumpers, etc that I could, then re-mounted them when I got the car back.
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I have a glovebox door on my 48 D24 that has a lock, however it does not take the same key as the ignition or doors. The lock needs a much shorter key. I never bothered to try to find one.
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Some years ago I bought key blanks on ebay. The doors and ignition are keyed alike, but even tough the trunk uses the same blank, the lock does not match the doors.
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Never say never again .... It is 60 degrees and beautiful today. My wife and I took a 30 mile ride to nowhere and enjoyed it thoroughly. We didn't stop anywhere for a picture, so the pic is in front of our house when we got home.
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Does the light bucket come out? Perhaps you could have strips of sheet metal spot welded or silver soldered onto it to reinforce it.
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I also do not have a rule for correlating point gap with dwell angle, but I think that it would depend on the shape of the distributer cam.
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We had 6 in. snow a week ago but today it is 55 degrees with dry roads. My wife and I took a 40 mi. ride past the Wachusett Mountain ski area. We missedthe foliage season, but it was still pretty. On the way home I filled the tank and added another dose of Startron fuel stabilizer. If weather permits I'll get it out sgain, but if it doesn't the caris ready for its long nap. I changed the oil three weeks ago and our garage is heated enough to keep it above freezing.
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Take the carb off and check theplugs screwed into the bottom of it.
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Your carb looks pretty clean. Did you have it rebuilt, or is it a recent replacement? I replaced the bxvd3 on my 48 Dodge a couple of years ago. The carb was clean and appeared to function OK so I bolted it on. Almost immediately it started leaking from the bottom like yours. I took it off to investigate, and found that there are two plugs on the bottom for axcess to jets inside the carb. Whoever cleaned and rebuilt the carb neglected to put gasket washers on the plugs. After replacing the washers it was fine.
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my car has turn signals added by a previous owner. They use the front parking lights with dual filament bulbs, but the rear has separate added lights, with blue dot lenses.
