Jump to content

'41 Fat Bottom Girl

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


'41 Fat Bottom Girl last won the day on November 25 2020

'41 Fat Bottom Girl had the most liked content!

About '41 Fat Bottom Girl

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • My Project Cars
    1941 Dodge D19 Business Coupe, 1969 Corvette Stingray

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Built and worked on motorcycles and cars, mechanically, body work and paint. Rock & Blues musician.
  • Occupation
    Retired Mechanical Engineer


  • Location
    Queen Creek, Arizona
  • Interests
    Working on cars, Play drums, songwriter, record music

Recent Profile Visitors

514 profile views
  1. GREAT tips. Thanx for the reminder to watch the location of the drain-back channel on the pinion shaft housing. That would be a bummer! Keithb7- Love the pic of the tranny apart on the floor- Ah, trips down memory lane... Timely, too. As I haven't had a Mopar standard taken apart all the way before: It looks from your pic it can be taken apart and reassembled without removing the mainshaft from the tailshaft housing. Taking it apart from the front might solve a tricky problem I had in the past with old Chevy manual 3 and 4 speed trannys too. (Sometimes I used to break a sec
  2. Taking my 3 speed apart today to replace the front pinion shaft, which means a total tear down. Was thinking of using #2 Permatex on the gaskets when putting it back together. Is that a good idea? Anything better? Thanx!
  3. Great pic, Sam! Those are the moments that shine. I never want to add up all the parts costs, like you guys say it is definitely more than I paid for the car in '96! And more than it's worth. Typical to look at an anticipated $100 improvement and spending three times that or more before it's done. Then you get in it to drive somewhere and it doesn't matter. And the smells of old iron, mohair if you still have it, a hint of oil and a warm engine. Gives me nostalgia of simpler times and a reminder of the great people that came before us. Boys and girls, what a wonderful sickn
  4. This was resolved. AB took care of me right away, and sent me another Pressure Plate/ Clutch Cover quickly and on their dime. Great response. I sent the new PP to a truck Brake and Clutch place as recommended and they shipped it back to me within a few days of receiving it. The full count of 12 springs now provides springs in all 12 locations. Well worth the extra $ to have it rebuilt and the plate parallelism tuned in at throw-out bearing travel distance. The forces will be now be more even all around the disc face and flywheel dace when clutching, with no localized hot sp
  5. A wealth of info and great explanations. A couple weeks too late for me to consider the driveshaft conversion as I'm into my rebuild a few hundred $-but this is good help for others, I'm sure. Thanx for the details! Merry Christmas, all.
  6. The proper length shaft and the use of cross type u-joints, phased, is a no-brainer. If you are using the original tranny and rear end: I am curious as to how you adapt to the flanges at the rear end, and at the parking brake drum at the transmission. And how is a similar telescoping action of the original shaft ends provided to compensate for rear end travel? Do you lose the parking brake and add a sliding coupling at the tranny output shaft? How are those addressed and were there any associated additional costs? Sorry if I am missing something that should be obvious here.
  7. Just having mine done now. For my old style ball and trunnion drive shaft joints on the '41, I ordered two kits from Andy B (to do both ends) $205 including shipping to AZ. Of course if you have to replace one or two housings, that would add to the cost. If you need housings, shop around. There are some on Ebay and others. My u-joint housings were fine, no wear; I had replaced one worn housing when I took them apart to inspect them about 5,000 miles ago. I too had some recent vibration above 45 mph or so, so while I have the tranny out I decided to have the shaft balanced and rebuilt
  8. Plymouthy, great job. Makes me want to make a new bench. And so right you are. My wife is a total sweetheart too, she helped me build our metal 900 sq ft shop 3 years ago hoisting panels and a lot of screws, nuts and bolts (a lot of it out in the desert heat!) and is always there for me. As with yours, she is right there when I need any help. Has a great mechanical aptitude, making some great suggestions. And a great sense of humor, she loves to relate any funny story or husband joke she finds! We laugh a lot and I can't imagine being without her. We have completed a lot of shared project
  9. Great pix and a great method. Safer, too. BTW- over the last 10 days my split lip from almost missing the tail shaft when the tranny fell down is healing up very nicely now (if I don't laugh too hard) and I do still have all the teeth I started with Just goes to show that even a guy with a "Safety First" credo, given enough opportunities, will screw up. Keeps me humble! (a couple buddies suggested the lip was from me being the victim of spousal abuse because of my warped sense of humor and endless wife jokes...)
  10. Yes. As you and Plymouthy both suggested, I have checked the clutch disc and it did get tweaked. Getting a new one. And this time I made a simple wood crib for the tranny to sit on the tranny jack so it will be better secured. I don't need any more accidents to happen. With JohnS48plm's suggestion to make some guide bolts (brilliant!) it will be a lot safer this time. Spending more time and $ is a rough education! Thanx, fellas. Great help. Soon to be doing a lot of driving in the old girl!
  11. Thanx, all. This is how it ended up: Unfortunately, my suspicions were correct. The input pinion shaft did get bent. With the pinion shaft hung up on the bell housing, the full weight of the tranny had slammed down pretty hard, with the pinion shaft left hanging off the bell housing and clutch. Took the forum advice and checked it more carefully. Decided to pull it out. Chucking it up to accurately check it end to end I got about .036" run-out on a dial indicator, so it bent it about .018". Seems like that was the likely source of my vibration at around 45 mph and up. Although
  12. Hmmm.. maybe more info might help a bit: 1) Which ones are dragging- Right front, left front, right rear, left rear? Are these the same ones as you first found not releasing properly before? 2) You mentioned cracking a bleeder on the front- were both fronts dragging and cracking a bleeder on only one free up both? Or did you have to crack bleeders on each wheel cylinder? 3) Which of the wheels appear not to be dragging?
  13. Thanx for the info. This is what we think this is: Might be a '39 or '40 by the headlights and grille. The seller is looking for the pink slip (title) before he gets the body. He said paid pink slip, so it might have been from California last time it was running. Engine is being looked at before he goes ahead with the sale, was sitting outside for many years and rusted up. Body is apparently in good enough shape to be salvaged. They say the internals don't seem too far gone, but was definitely rebuilt some time past because the crank was .040 under and can't be used. It was rebuilt with a
  14. It's been since the '70s when I took 3 speeds apart, mainly those were total disassembly and repair, and I can't remember if it is possible to replace the input (pinion) shaft from the front of the tranny, if that is the only part with a problem. I think I remember with some trannys, the mating countershaft gear (on the secondary layshaft) prevents that without removing the secondary first (pretty much a total tear down). With the '41 standard 3 speed, is this the case, or is it possible to reinstall it from the front without doing a total tear down? If I am careful and don't drop a rolle
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use