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'41 Fat Bottom Girl

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About '41 Fat Bottom Girl

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • My Project Cars
    1941 Dodge D19 Business Coupe, 1969 Corvette Stingray

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  • Biography
    Built and worked on motorcycles and cars, mechanically, body work and paint. Rock & Blues musician.
  • Occupation
    Retired Mechanical Engineer


  • Location
    Queen Creek, Arizona
  • Interests
    Working on cars, Play drums, songwriter, record music

Recent Profile Visitors

328 profile views
  1. When changing to a synthetic standard transmission oil...Any concerns with the residual conventional 90W oil left in the tranny after draining? Would it be advisable to run the new synthetic for a bit, drain the tranny again and refill with fresh synthetic? Thx!
  2. Thanx, fellas- I am really glad I didn't plunge ahead and take it apart before asking. "The only stupid questions are those not asked"
  3. I found that my "41Dodge pressure plate, although the surface is excellent, seems to be a bit off-plane to the mounting bolts surface...and I would like to check it and make adjustments if necessary after checking all the fingers, eye-bolts, pins and seats for wear. Per my shop manual, adjustment requires a C-585 fixture. I have a press with a deep enough throat to fit the assembly to depress the 3 release fingers for disassembly and reassembly, but I don't know if the actual adjustment after reassembly is possible without the fixture. Alternately, if there is suspicious wear and I decide to buy a new assembly, it would be good to be able to check it before I install it back on my newly resurfaced flywheel. Any suggestions? Thanx!
  4. On a new transmission rear seal there is a felt ring behind the rubber gland seal. Should this felt be lubed with a light oil or a heavy oil? Thanx!
  5. Thanx, all! Great info on the pdf regarding anti-seize, Sniper. Guys, on the sealant and Loctite: I suppose #2 Permatex would be OK as a thread sealant? Loctite- Blue Loctite is my guess for thread locking, as using Red on clean threads may never disassemble again (!) Great advice. Regards to all...
  6. I usually use anti-seize on a number of bolts and/or studs that aren't torque-critical, including water pump and goose-necks and most general usage that also have lock washers and might need disassembly in future. But on an engine rebuild... I was told once years ago (correctly? Not?) that on a clean block when installing new head bolts, it is best not to use it, as it can give you bad numbers on a torque wrench by acting as a lubricant on the threads. How about flywheel bolts that mate up to the engine plate? Another is, what about applying anti-seize to intake manifold and exhaust manifold bolts/studs going into the block? Thanx!
  7. Richmond, California in 1971. Street races on Parr Blvd. (before the cops would show up). A fella was running a punched Chevy 283 in a VW bug. Engine was mounted in the front, taking up the front seat area- no firewall, but a scatter- shield over a T-10 tranny. Wide rear tires and home-made modified frame and suspension. He sat in the back seat to steer and one Saturday night I saw him blow off my friend Jimmy Gray's new 440 6 pack 'Cuda twice on a 1/4 mile run before we heard sirens and everybody had to split. One of the craziest home-builts I ever saw outside of the dragstrip. Don't know if he ever took it down to Fremont to run it.
  8. Thanx fellas! I boldly went forward- Taking the cups off was one screw each- and no rivets in the horn base assembly like I had feared; all are threaded studs around the base perimeter. Simple. Looks like the corrosion and rust should clean up easily. I will clean up the parts and dress the contacts lightly with a points file (I can see some pits and material deposition with an eye loupe- quite normal for contacts with DC voltage) and readjust. Initial tests using a full charged battery gives me burps of sound when I make and break but no prolonged sound, so my guess is the points dressing and adjusting will get me there. This is the first time I have taken a horn apart and it is very similar to an electric buzzer or bell. Plymouthy, I have some nice thin gasket materials and also insulating fish paper, so per advice I will replace any questionable ones. I have good continuity on the coils and no shorts to ground. Per your suggestion, it sure won't hurt to measure the coil resistance and verify volts under load to check the amp draw to ensure I am within the ballpark per specs when making the final adjustment. Then back together for stripping and new paint. Pic shows my starting condition. Again, thanx to both of you for the replies. Great help. Motorheads forever!
  9. Pulled the horns out of my '41 Dodge a few months back and now found water dripping out. I had them stored under a tarp since November while doing my engine rebuild. Even staying under a tarp with other parts they accumulated a lot of condensation inside from rainy weather out here in the Phoenix area and dew point changes. Thinking about removing the rivets and drying everything out and de-rusting before reassembling them. Has anyone attempted this? Thanx much!
  10. Our condolences and Best Wishes to the family. He, and his knowledge will be missed. Thank you, Don.
  11. Engine torn down and measuring parts, probably will need a standard .020 over kit, rings, seals, gaskets etc., maybe cam bearings and other as things progress. Is there a good, preferred parts house for kits? (I saw a recommendation on a similar thread a while back, but couldn't find it again) Thanx!
  12. I installed the windows and parts in the '41 coupe, which previously were missing, so I had no idea of how the original parts were oriented. That detail is not shown in my shop manual. I eventually found a Youtube video of the regulator installation and it appeared the spring-loaded "X" part he installed had the clips (and the studs they go on) facing the outside of the doors, away from you. I did that. It seems to me that it would have been easier to install the clips if those parts were facing you, instead of away from you. Those parts are mirror image right and left, so it is possible they can be installed either way. For clarification, the photo shows a similar scrap part I have with the clip studs (at the bottom) facing toward you. Per the video, I installed these with those facing in the other direction Did I put them in wrong? Did I put what should be the left "X" on the right side door and what should be the right side "X" on the left side door? Thanx!!
  13. Thanx for the radios conversation and the education.. Great to know it was the same for all those years. These radios are heavy! I was surprised. Just rediscovered mine last week. Have had mine out of the car for last 20 odd years, have never tried it, and now thinking about opening it up and seeing if the caps (condensors in those days!) look OK and what the wiring looks like before I put 6 volts to it (with a 10 amp fuse) I have no idea when it last worked. 1) Check the inside circuitry visually and then just go for it? 2) use a 4 ohm or 8 ohm speaker?
  14. Everything is original. So there is no significant back-pressure within the radiator when running temps are normal? There is a little cylindrical projection at the top center of the rad from which the overflow tube exits. Is there anything inside this, or is it an unobstructed path from inside the top cap to the overflow? Thanx for the education...
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