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'41 Fat Bottom Girl

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About '41 Fat Bottom Girl

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1941 Dodge D19 Business Coupe, 1969 Corvette Stingray

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  • Biography
    Built and worked on motorcycles and cars, mechanically, body work and paint. Rock & Blues musician.
  • Occupation
    Retired Mechanical Engineer

Converted

  • Location
    Queen Creek, Arizona
  • Interests
    Working on cars, Play drums, songwriter, record music

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386 profile views
  1. Well, I am eating crow pie on my recollection of the seal construction- got it out of the tranny this morning and it does indeed have an elastomer spring-backed lip seal beside the felt, and was correctly installed with lip seal side facing the inside, felt side out. Didn't remember it, it has been 11 months since I put it back together ( I thought it was short-term memory that goes first when you become an old fart?) Another good lesson not to run my mouth until I have all the facts. At 71, you'd think I'd learned by now...So, in this instance, it may well not be the part- a sincere apology to Bernbaum. Will replace it with the NOS part when I receive it and see what happens. In the meantime, I will check the surface finish again and if I see any suspect area, I will take care of that. If at all questionable, I will look into the speedy sleeve. Thanx, Dartgame. Thanx all, I will post the resolution.
  2. You all may have put me on the right path here- my problem may be the Bernbaum replacement part (not the first time I have had problems with their parts- a lot were fine, but some not so good...). From your descriptions and an enlarged sectional view of the transmission parts, I see there is no leather or rubber component in the Bernbaum seal- aside from the metal seal case, it is a fat cross-section of felt only. I have ordered a Chrysler NOS seal in the original box from another source that appears to be of the construction you guys have described. When I pull the Bernbaum part, I will post a pic to show you what it looks like. With felt alone without some other wall barrier at the seal, I am wondering if the felt would just continue to get saturated and weep from capillary action... Hot on the trail. Thanx, all. I will be back with what I found.
  3. Hi Greg G- This is the felt seal at the rear end of the 3 speed transmission. Apparently it does keep dirt from getting to the adjacent bearing, but is also to prevent oil from leaking out. FYI- the original felt seal was virtually leak free at 90K miles before I tore everything down, so maybe it is a felt material problem or dimensional issue with the replacement seal (?) These felt rear seals were used for many years, so something is weird. Sniper- thanx for the link, I will check it out.
  4. Yup, and this one sprayed ( I'm guessing) a good half-ounce of oil in the first 90 miles. More cleanup. The felt seals seem to do a nice job polishing the shaft, so I am guessing it would be a good finish for a rotating shaft gland type seal- if one is available. I am going to remove the felt seal and check the measurements and do some research on availability of a modern single or double lip spring-backed seal. If no prospects there, I will try to find an original N.O.S. felt seal. Maybe the original felt material sealed and wicked differently than that used in the after market knock-off parts? I will post what I find. I gotta do something, the parking brake drum and shoe at the rear of the tranny are right in line of any drips coming back and get messed up fast. I am going to try salvaging my new parking brake shoe by rinsing it in brake cleaner fluid.
  5. I installed new rear tranny oil seal when I had it out of the car... no -problems with original seal, but decided to replace it while I had it out. Checked for any noticeable bearing play on the main shaft in the process; all looked good. Ordered a new seal from Bernbaum. Shop manual didn't cover any seal prep, but thanx to forum recommendations, I soaked the felt in a heavy oil and blotted the excess before carefully installing (7/32" exposed) as per my shop manual. Filled with Redline MT90 90 weight oil. Inspecting things after the first 90 miles on my rebuilt flat 6, it is slinging some oil...bummer, now also have oil on my new parking brake shoes...grrrrrrr! Any suggestions as to what is going wrong? Are these felt seals typically problematic (I can't imagine why, they were used for many years)? Should I research a similarly-sized double lip spring loaded seal instead? Many thanx!!
  6. Thanx, this is what I will do: I had VR1 Racing high zinc oil in the engine for the first hour of run-in time then drained it and cleaned out the filter canister to remove the worst of the metal particles. New filter and Royal Purple break in oil next. Will run that for about 200 miles to finish beak in, then will change to VR1 Racing high zinc full synthetic for 1000 miles and drain again. After that beak in complete, new filter and VR1 again for regular 3,000 mile oil and filter changes. Sounds like this is a reasonable approach. Good tech article, Sniper, and thanx everyone for the experiences and advice. Best Regards to all.
  7. Going to be using Valvoline VR1 Racing (high Zinc) synthetic oil in my '41. For engine break-in of the rebuilt flat 6, would this be a good oil for the break-in period as well? Thanx!
  8. When changing to a synthetic standard transmission oil...Any concerns with the residual conventional 90W oil left in the tranny after draining? Would it be advisable to run the new synthetic for a bit, drain the tranny again and refill with fresh synthetic? Thx!
  9. Thanx, fellas- I am really glad I didn't plunge ahead and take it apart before asking. "The only stupid questions are those not asked"
  10. I found that my "41Dodge pressure plate, although the surface is excellent, seems to be a bit off-plane to the mounting bolts surface...and I would like to check it and make adjustments if necessary after checking all the fingers, eye-bolts, pins and seats for wear. Per my shop manual, adjustment requires a C-585 fixture. I have a press with a deep enough throat to fit the assembly to depress the 3 release fingers for disassembly and reassembly, but I don't know if the actual adjustment after reassembly is possible without the fixture. Alternately, if there is suspicious wear and I decide to buy a new assembly, it would be good to be able to check it before I install it back on my newly resurfaced flywheel. Any suggestions? Thanx!
  11. On a new transmission rear seal there is a felt ring behind the rubber gland seal. Should this felt be lubed with a light oil or a heavy oil? Thanx!
  12. Thanx, all! Great info on the pdf regarding anti-seize, Sniper. Guys, on the sealant and Loctite: I suppose #2 Permatex would be OK as a thread sealant? Loctite- Blue Loctite is my guess for thread locking, as using Red on clean threads may never disassemble again (!) Great advice. Regards to all...
  13. I usually use anti-seize on a number of bolts and/or studs that aren't torque-critical, including water pump and goose-necks and most general usage that also have lock washers and might need disassembly in future. But on an engine rebuild... I was told once years ago (correctly? Not?) that on a clean block when installing new head bolts, it is best not to use it, as it can give you bad numbers on a torque wrench by acting as a lubricant on the threads. How about flywheel bolts that mate up to the engine plate? Another is, what about applying anti-seize to intake manifold and exhaust manifold bolts/studs going into the block? Thanx!
  14. Richmond, California in 1971. Street races on Parr Blvd. (before the cops would show up). A fella was running a punched Chevy 283 in a VW bug. Engine was mounted in the front, taking up the front seat area- no firewall, but a scatter- shield over a T-10 tranny. Wide rear tires and home-made modified frame and suspension. He sat in the back seat to steer and one Saturday night I saw him blow off my friend Jimmy Gray's new 440 6 pack 'Cuda twice on a 1/4 mile run before we heard sirens and everybody had to split. One of the craziest home-builts I ever saw outside of the dragstrip. Don't know if he ever took it down to Fremont to run it.
  15. Thanx fellas! I boldly went forward- Taking the cups off was one screw each- and no rivets in the horn base assembly like I had feared; all are threaded studs around the base perimeter. Simple. Looks like the corrosion and rust should clean up easily. I will clean up the parts and dress the contacts lightly with a points file (I can see some pits and material deposition with an eye loupe- quite normal for contacts with DC voltage) and readjust. Initial tests using a full charged battery gives me burps of sound when I make and break but no prolonged sound, so my guess is the points dressing and adjusting will get me there. This is the first time I have taken a horn apart and it is very similar to an electric buzzer or bell. Plymouthy, I have some nice thin gasket materials and also insulating fish paper, so per advice I will replace any questionable ones. I have good continuity on the coils and no shorts to ground. Per your suggestion, it sure won't hurt to measure the coil resistance and verify volts under load to check the amp draw to ensure I am within the ballpark per specs when making the final adjustment. Then back together for stripping and new paint. Pic shows my starting condition. Again, thanx to both of you for the replies. Great help. Motorheads forever!
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