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'41 Fat Bottom Girl

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'41 Fat Bottom Girl last won the day on February 16

'41 Fat Bottom Girl had the most liked content!

About '41 Fat Bottom Girl

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Gender
  • My Project Cars
    1941 Dodge D19 Business Coupe, 1969 Corvette Stingray

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Built and worked on motorcycles and cars, mechanically, body work and paint. Rock & Blues musician.
  • Occupation
    Retired Mechanical Engineer


  • Location
    Queen Creek, Arizona
  • Interests
    Working on cars, Play drums, songwriter, record music

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631 profile views
  1. Here's a pic of the lighted 3 position heater switch under the dash. Was there originally a plastic cover, or bakelite cover, or something over the brass knob? Thanx
  2. Kinda amazing that a 21" flat screen TV today (Samsung at Walmart at $130) is $50 cheaper than a 21 inch TV in 1954- I can't think of many things that got cheaper over 67 years! "...(updated Jan/2020) a dollar today is worth only 10% of a dollar in 1954. $100 in 1954 is equivalent in purchasing power to about $968.30 today..." Darn! those 21 inch 1954 TVs were expensive! $1,742.46 in 2020 money. and- If that wasn't a monthly payment and he sold a lot of bicycles and outboards, that might have contributed to ol' W H Kearny's business demise...just sayin'.
  3. OK, a question for you special brake tool gurus- Know of a tube or some type of vessel that's made to thread into the fill hole on top of a master cylinder? Something to hold about 1/2 cup or so brake fluid? I am thinking it would be screwed into the fill hole and filled with fluid. Tall enough too, so the spurt of fluid when you depress the brake stays inside this container. While purging the brake lines or bleeding, I wouldn't have to follow my usual procedure- which is- unscrew the mstr. cyl. fill plug, add fluid, screw the fill plug back in, bleed or purge a bit, repeat, rep
  4. Jake and Elwood saved me from (sorry, Sat. Nite Fever fans) the era of Disco... Trying to get a club gig playing R&R in those days was almost impossible, even in the SF Bay Area... I think the beauty of music is that most of us have a wide circle of tastes in music -and some part of that usually intersects with other person's circles of tastes. There is almost always some foot-stompin' tunes we can agree on! Cruising the open road just listening to the machine and the road itself, or to music is a shared love for sure. There's nothing like hitting the road with our vintage
  5. Hi JD, The seal lip on the bottom half-plate had a slight distortion that caused it not to be a perfect radius, kinda like it was bent over a bit, but not scuffed.. Tiny bit of distortion. I do not know if this was a result of the way it was handled/ packaged by the manufacturer, or caused before or during assembly. In addition to that, because I wasn't the one to disassemble it, I can't tell you if the "h" side pieces were installed correctly or not, or if the corners and butting surfaces were clean and sealed properly. The shop was pretty certain it was the bad part and this
  6. Yessss- An omen to drive, man, drive! That was an ode to the 55 mph max "fuel conservation" with the USA gas shortage- Remember even or odd days had to match your last even or odd license plate number in order to gas up? And sitting in lines hoping to get gas before the station ran out? That was the end of the "gas war" years when stations fought each other for the lowest prices. Then, a couple bucks for gas could keep you draggin' the main all evening... So glad Sammy kept on after splitting with Ronnie Montrose- Always wished they had done a third album together...Never forget the
  7. Hi DJK, This is the style of rear seal in this 1941 218 engine (original to the car) rather than a rope type seal. I don't know what year these blocks changed over from the rope. The back of the block and the bearing cap have the six threaded mounting holes, which I believe are not provided in engines that came with the rope type seals, which had rope seal channels in the block and cap. Pic below shows the back of the engine when it was pulled to have it rebuilt. Good luck with your rebuild!
  8. This is how it all ended up- Problems solved! The shop that rebuilt the engine fixed them within a few weeks after I pulled the engine again. It ended up that the lip on the new rear main seal used in the rebuild was bad (it had the style pictured below) and the adjustment lock nut on the one of the new lifters was because of a bad part too. As not to have possible wear issues on the broken in newly-ground cam by putting in a new lifter, they just fixed the lock nut instead of replacing the whole lifter. Makes sense. Next I will adjust the lifters again and it will run even better.
  9. Thanx for all the input. I took the easy way out. I took the plate and tube assembly out and checked to ensure that the tube was swaged tight to the cover. Cleaned it, wiped the shims and box surfaces clean and reassembled. Ordered a tube of John Deere Corn Head Grease, took the zerk head off the flex hose on one of my grease guns and pumped the steering box full. Smooth steering operation and no more worries. Thanx very much again. On to the next project!
  10. Took my '41 out for a spin after 4 months of down time- and right away Chuck Berry came on the radio with one of my old favorite tunes. I was grinning like an idiot! What cruising song lights up your face?
  11. Question for you steering box gurus: My horn wire is still out. Can this cover and tube assembly be removed without taking anything else apart? I was afraid to pull it in case other things inside came loose or out of position. I do not want to end up taking the steering column out and having to take the steering box apart. If I can remove and reassemble the cover and tube assembly and shims without disturbing anything else inside, I will probably do that and braze the tube joint to the cover. Otherwise, I really like the idea of using grease. The temp viscosity stability o
  12. I am beginning to like the idea of grease. Sure could save some time! I will research the hi-temp viscosity stability of marine and ag greases and see. I could live with some seepage if it breaks down a bit. Beats a rebuild! Many thanx, fellas. I will reply. Bruce
  13. Using 90 weight per the manual. Thought about grease also, not a bad idea if it is a high temp grease with a high viscosity that doesn't breakdown and drip at high temp- I worry about those things more here in the desert with 110-115 degree months adding to hot engine temps) I also wonder with that tube extending up as far as it does into the box, there might be an upper seal issue instead, or in addition?) I would prefer not to rebuild the whole box. My guess is that the box doesn't need venting. If not, instead of taking the whole column apart (if that is what it takes), I a
  14. With a further look, the hole is likely where the "grease retaining tube" is swaged to attach it to the cover (part of item 17 cover assembly ) This suggests the oil is traveling back thru this tube. Ya think the lower seal & spring and washer mentioned would fix that? Thanx, Bruce
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