busycoupe

A great lobster roll!

My wife and I are taking a brief vacation on Cape Cod. Today we had lunch at a fish restaurant in Yarmouth, MA. They had ris car parked next to the restaurant. It has been repowered, I don't know with what, but when I peeked in the window I could see a modern steering column and a floor shifter for an automatic transmission.

Back in the day when a car wouldn't start we would turn on the headlights then hit the starter. A good battery should crank the engine with the lights only slightly dimming. If the lights go out it is an indication of a dead battery some problem in the battery cables.

Perhaps there is a short in the radio and thatis why the power wire was disconnected. However, as Sniper says if the radio was connected to ignition switch it should not get any power when the switch is off.

Take it to a good hardware store and see if you can match it.

Civil War

I put lap belts in my Dodge coupe years ago using belts from Julianos hot rod parts. They sell a heavy duty anchor plate with rounded edges to go under the floor. The rounded edges hopefully will keep the plates from cutting the sheet metal floor. So far my seat belts have not been tested and like Sam says I am doing my best to ensure that they aren't.

The fuel pump could be weak. if the tank is more than a quarter full there is enough pressure from the tank to keep the fuel flowing to the pump, if less gas intank the pump cannot pull itthrough the line. Another thing that can cause this problem is a pin hole in the gas line. An old Mustang I had started very hard when I first got it. Once running it was fine. It never leaked gas either. Eventually I replaced the fuel line and discovered that the old line had a pinhole where it went up over the axle. When the car was stopped thefuel would drain out of the line back to the tank and the pump couldn't pull it back over the hump, but once started it would run fine.

Replacing the motor mounts can cause the shift linkage to bind or not work. If you are having trouble with shifting on your maiden voyage check the shift rod adjustments.

Fuses fatigue over time, especially if they are carrying near their current limit. Did you upgrade the headlight bulbs? Have tail light brake lights been added to the circuit? (cars in the forties only had the trunk mounted lighr for brakes. Many people later added dual contact sockets in the tail lights to add brake lights.) .... Just a couple of things to check.

There is an adjustment procedure in the manual. It is not difficult, I just can't remember the details off hand.

Last week when I saw this post I went right to Amazon and ordered a copy of this book. It arrived today. It is a fascinating book. The author has culled part numbers from many different vintage catalogs from many manufacturers. He only includes part numbers that wil fit 1946-48 D24 models. For example the photo shows part of his listing for National grease and oil seals. The National list is continued at the top of the next page. If you are at a flea market and pick up a National seal in a box with a number you can tell if it wiil fit a D24, and where it will be used. If the National number is not in the field guide the that seal will not fit a D24. If you have a D24 and are going to a flea market for parts this is the book to have.

There was a discussion of this on the forum a fee months ago. Apparently when afluid drive unit developed a leak some owners opted to weld it solid rather than pay to have it repaired. The car could still be driven as a standard 3 speed, but without the benefits of the fluid drive. Try a search for "fluid drive".

I have a Harbor Freight IR thermometer. it works great. It picks up slight temp variations on different parts of the engine. I also use it to find heat leaks in my house in the winter. It also works to check the grandchildren for fevers.

this is from my repair manual. I hope that it helps.

A dozen years ago I bought windshield rubber from Bernbaum for my 48 Dodge. At the time I had fast service and the gasket was pliable and fit well. I have no recent experience with them.

I would send it to an instrument repair specialist. About 12 yrs ago I had an extra speedometer out of a junker and thought I would take it apart, restore the translucent colors, put it together again and put it in my car. It never made it. In the process of taking it apart I broke it in several ways that I was unable to repair. I chalked it up to a learning experience.

On my 48 Dodge it is impossible to pressurize the radiator even with a modern pressure cap. The vent is located in the top of the tank away from the filler neck.

My car is like Bryan's and I never realized that there was supposed be a seal there.

Last time I checked, several years ago, my Dodgewas getting 15 to 16 mpg. 230, three speed with fluid drive.

The number on the back of my Dodge radiator is 1254623.

I just measured the spacing on the bolts on my radiator. It is a little difficult to measure acurately while it is in the car, but they appear to be close to 22 inches center to center. I have a 48 Dodge D24. so it may not be the same as a Desoto.

Is the radiator original to the car, or is it a replacement from another vehicle?

The radiator does not sit tight on the bottom of the support. The radiator is bolted onto the back side of the support, not in the middle. Also the top bolt goes through the brace on top of the radiator as well as the sides of the support.

Check the motor mounts. The engine may be shifting position on the slope causing the shifter linkage to bind.