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Young Ed

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Everything posted by Young Ed

  1. Yup the pedals will just keep going until they hit something. When I have to remove the floor I strap the pedals forward. I would say don't mess with anything until the steel floor panels are installed.
  2. If you have a matched set the pushrod will make good contact with the back of the MC. Mine was mismatched and way too short. If you had the opposite you probably wouldn't even be able to assemble the MC to the bellhousing.
  3. As far as I know the pedals shouldn't rub left to right even if you mixed and matched. When I first built my 46 the clutch pedal rubbed. Little heat and bent it back in line. Not sure how it would have gotten bent but it was also an abandoned project so maybe something happened when it was laying around. The previous owners were going to 350swap it so I'm sure they weren't too careful with the stock bell housing. Now one other thing to point out- mid 46 there was a change to the brake pedal and if you don't have a matching set of pedal and pushrod your brakes will be screwed
  4. Ha- I did catch the reference. I'm sure my P15 went to the junkyard at 76k in part to the non detergent
  5. I don't think a few 100 miles on a brand new engine will create much sludge. You did remind me that my fresh rebuild for the p15 had an oil leak because the pan was rusted through but had been plugged up with sludge
  6. Technology has but the engine is still basically the same as when that recommendation was written. I broke in both of mine with 30non d and then switched to 10-40 after a couple 100 miles.
  7. The tricky part I've run into isn't the thread it's the thickness. For my 47 truck I had to cut the nut in 1/2
  8. Personally I've found I run out of nerve before I run out of engine. At least mine with tall radials starts to feel top heavy around 55-60. I have a 218 stock trans and a 3.90
  9. How did you scan these? I have a bunch of them but most are too big for my scanner
  10. On RA were those listed for your 51?
  11. That sounds like way too much work. I just buy no ethanol gas for the equipment and add stabil for the off season. No problems with either mowers or snow blower. Funny story though this past fall I got delayed and couldn't get the mower to start. So I put it in the warm shop and still couldn't get it to start the next day. After pulling on it probably 50 times and checking the plug I finally gave up and was just going to add stabil to the tank. Well when I opened it it was empty!
  12. Once you find the proper fit circle back to rock auto. You might find the shipping doesn't increase much for 6 filters and that'd spread the cost across them. I bought a case of filters for my 318 last summer
  13. Newport may still have a solution but the wipers for a 47 are quite different than a pilot house. 39-47 trucks have individual wipers per side and go above the windshield in the header panel. Not much room at all for anything bigger than stock. I've heard of guys grabbing wiper motors from modern hatch back vehicles and adapting them
  14. My 48 Plymouth has the dual heaters and came to me with the single outlet valve shown in this thread. Was it there from new who knows... but I believe it was.
  15. The old timer at the shop we use has us use 30w non detergent for break in. Both mine got that treatment and it worked fine. Would detergent have worked the same IDK
  16. That across all trim levels?
  17. I got the one for my 47 from the Poland guy too. Very well done piece. Shipping of course was a little expensive coming that far
  18. 6 passenger 318 with push button auto. No idea how many were made or are left. I believe somewhat unique is the turquoise interior.
  19. Love the long roofs but mine is a little newer. I was hunting for a vintage family hauler and ended up with a 64 belvedere 6pass
  20. This fitting is still used for water heater pilot lights. My local hardware store stocks them
  21. Looks like one of the screws for the gauge face
  22. I've been to brake and equipment many times- you'll be happy with your MC
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