Young Ed
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Posts
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Everything posted by Young Ed
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No gasket I've ever seen. The cluster itself does have gaskets inside it.
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Not sure who you've been talking to but the orange thing is just friendly rivalry between Mark and I.
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That's exactly what's going on. When it needs a good wash and wax it gets more orangy. That red paint is very very old. From what I can tell it's only the second paint job since 46 and it's not even a very good job. They didn't do between cab and bed or inside the bed either.
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Mark has issues and thinks my truck is orange....
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Great find. Of course I might be a little biased
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Your 48 should have been a no pressure system. I think a small amount would be fine but I wouldn't use the supplied cap.
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I just did mine last year. Should be pics in my turkey truck build thread.
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VERY Interesting, NOS Dash Indicator. Help Identify Please.
Young Ed replied to Skrambler's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I looked for one for a couple years before I gave up and put aftermarket signals on my 48. -
Flathead 6 - Head Torque both Initial and Maintenance
Young Ed replied to Semmerling's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I can think of at least one worse thing than a bunch of clicks. Personally I just don't see the need for this on the maintenance list. My coupe is approaching 30k since the rebuild on the same head gasket. Horror of horrors I also reused the old head bolts -
Flathead 6 - Head Torque both Initial and Maintenance
Young Ed replied to Semmerling's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Now can we discuss the maintenance piece? I've had my flatheads for many many years and miles and have never just randomly retorqued the head. I'm honestly not even sure it was done after the initial build. -
I stained mine with ebony to mimic the paint look/ the old days when people oiled their floors. Got a thread on here for my 47
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1950 P19 3-speed manual transmission seal question
Young Ed replied to streetdemon's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Thanks for the correction I thought it was a nickel someone posted earlier. -
1950 P19 3-speed manual transmission seal question
Young Ed replied to streetdemon's topic in P15-D24 Forum
This is a leak I've been fighting on my 48 equiped with a 52 overdrive. Next time I mess with it it's getting a nickel pushed into the shift rail. -
Yes and my car had the same style in it that I replaced.
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I found a chart but I'm not sure if it was here or the 39-47 group. You can kind of back into it if you have your bed steel and the strips. Keep in mind with the strips they aren't all created equal and you need to adjust accordingly
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I'm running that exact one in my P15 for 15ish years now.
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It's odd how they are like that. My dad's fully restored 51 ply got all new u joints along with everything else. That driveshaft never worked right and he's been running a parts car fresh driveshaft for probably 20y now
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They held onto those Detroit joints into the 60s. Although by then they were only putting them at one end
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I think he means the plugs- but are they lead or aluminum?
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That's all paint. I'm not aware of anyone selling a stencil to aid in repainting
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It still provides outside air to the heater. In the summer you open both the cowl vent and the inside door and get airflow. In cooler weather or rain you close the lower door and air is forced into the heater core. Unless it's trashed I'd put it back in. The top gasket is easily made and the rectangular door one is available new.
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Plymouth never had fluid drive. They did have hy-drive which is sort of a next generation fluid drive and was available 53-54.
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The actual box is held by the 2 studs at the top and the bottom is pushed up by a stud sorta thing on the cowl vent lever bracket. Towards the driver's side of the lower door you can see the little pocket where that pushes. Then you need to separate the outlet piece that clamps to the top of the heater core. Shows 4 screws I think they all go up from the bottom.
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They were available with either one or two cores along with the fresh air setup. This is mine that I refurbished for my P15. I have both cores but you should have a blank off plate for the driver's side.
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I'm planning to put my fuse panel on the a puller in the kick panel area. So there shouldn't be any extra wires under the dash then. My 47 the windshield opens so they are prone to leaking. So I'm going for the dryest spot possible.
