Young Ed
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Everything posted by Young Ed
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Pretty sure I just saw that 41 truck for sale at a cheap 28.5k
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If you've got it mostly functional other than double clutching 3rd why not leave it for a min and see if you can find another trans or some new parts?
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Dynamat project I posted about a couple weeks ago was part of prep for a 600ish mile road trip. This afternoon checked the spare and decided it was time for an update... The one in the rear was a G series bias ply that's probably older than I am!! Dug out the matching wheel I bought a couple years back at Mopars in the park. Cleaned it up and hit it with some spray paint. Tomorrow a used tire and one less thing to get ready. Interestingly also discovered the 14 spare is almost identical height wise to my 15s. So speedometer shouldn't be too messed up.
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Isn't the idea to pound them towards flat not make them concave the other direction?
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Wear gloves- good possibility that goop has lead in it from the old leaded fuel
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Maybe a quick study will show it's the same or similar enough. Did the 56 use the same rear mounts?
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Do you not have the 51 bell housing to make it a sure fit?
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Has anyone mentioned checking the spring piece for the points?
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Am I seeing things or is the 2nd from the left in the pic not even touching the lifter?
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For the cars you can use an extra rear cap as the top and you've got a line connection ready to go.
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I've got one spare that's pretty rusty if I remember right. Might be good for a pattern of someone can make up a few.
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Car is reassembled and of course we had to test drive to DQ. Noticeably quieter. You can hardly hear it running at idle.
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I've done a few of these. 2 were the valves and one was a stuck piston/rings. Yours looks pretty clean so I'm guessing valves. I would hose them down with your favorite penetrating oil or try the brake fluid mentioned above. Heck of you've got some laying around dump ATF on them. Then try rocking the car.
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That heavy wool has gotta have more water holding potential than this tar stuff. Some of what I used is literally water proof roofing material for houses.
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That's true and not what I've got. Just that the last guy did the repairs. Other than whatever black rubbery stuff he used as seam sealer they seem to be installed well. That stuff all pealed right off and I put actual seam sealer over them.
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I knew the metal was there. I crawled all over this thing before buying. No rust buckets for this kid
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Started with buying the proper turquoise seatbelts to replace the cheapy black ones. Then decided to put some sound deadener on the floor. Then discovered the floors were patched up pretty decently but then the seams were coating in some rubbery stuff that just pealed right off when I was wiping the floor down before dynamat. So now I've got proper seam sealer drying along with some rust converter on some surface scale. Tomorrow I can finally start reassembling.
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As long as the clip is fully over the BB I'd say you're good to go
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Small screwdriver or a matching diameter socket should get that clip set
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Sounds like a show your tools post is in order
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Before you get to drilling have you tried welding a nut to the broken stud?
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Going by your profile pic and handle of p17 you have a late 49.
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A 49 doesn't have a true VIN it has a serial number. I believe all you can decode from it is what plant it was built in and an approximate production time.
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Not sure where you got the notion that the /6 dist conversion is difficult. I had mine converted in about an hour. The trickiest part is sanding a few thousand off the OD of the /6 dist so it fits in the flathead block. Beyond that everything else is just dismantling both and swapping over the drive.
