Young Ed

Do you have a tap and die set? Or a thread restoration kit? You should if you don't. But if you do it also comes in handy to figure out what threads you have in the water pump.

You need the little valve stem filler for the wheel covers.

If I remember right from Dads 39 all 4 wheel cylinders are unique. Could it be you have backs on the front and fronts in the rear?

As for the other questions you should have a switch in the wiper cover hole rather than just a bushing where the arm from the vacuum wiper would come through. Also 2 holes in the cab to the outside instead of 1. Do you have the little sheet metal piece for the outside of the cab?

Yes those 4 and then the 2 at the tape for the opener will have it out.

https://macsmotorcitygarage.com/the-ford-motor-companys-forgotten-49-fastbacks/

Clearly I don't since I just learned I'm supposed to have them. If you send me a set I'll figure it out ?

Interesting I've taken quite a few of these buckets apart and never seen one with a clip. Maybe they were all dust before I got to them? I took apart one I have on the shelf that is a very nice original and no clips like that.

Are those listed for W series? They don't look right to me. The ones I have use 2 hooks to attach to the reflector/lense and then the screw at the back pulls it all tight to the bucket

This for a 42-47 truck? If so you're on the car side of the forum.

Whole knew meaning to beer darts!

I believe all the large grill bars have permanent studs. I was able to remove and replace with generic carriage bolts and tack weld them in

Now let's see if you can even find a 6v flasher that will last more than a few months. After going through many in my truck and car I started grabbing vintage ones at the junkyard and running those.

Funny my pass side doesn't work at all and the blade I had like the pic above blew off in the wind just over a year ago so I have no functional wipers! I think what you need is a shorter arm. Does the bar piece of yours telescope back and forth?

Usually the filter uses the 2 just behind the dist and the gauge uses one all the way at the back of the block towards the firewall

That's a more modern blade(and better) and arm setup than what I've seen originally. This is the blade style I've seen https://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-truck-wiper-blade-original-style-10-1947-1953-61-311779-1.html

There is actually a tool for them that I picked up from a ford vendor that's a modified clamp that incorporates a pin to push on the door pin. As Los said they can be a real bear if they have been rusted in place. Beyond that once you get them apart it's good to have a slightly longer pin to make sure it goes fully through the mirror bracket

Which is what happened to mine. After 172 miles it needed to get pulled back out and get new bearings. Extra expense, lots of work to pull it again, and the stress of pulling the engine out of a freshly restored/painted car.

The engine in my 46 pickup was originally in my dad's 51 Plymouth. It wiped the bearings at 127 miles from rebuild. They thought at the time it was due to not being cleaned enough. Part of me thinks though it was at least partially due to the amount of time(years) between when it was built and the actual start up. If I was buying that spit fire it wouldn't see an attempt at rolling over until I pulled it apart and relubed all the bearings.

The only other one I'm aware of to try it a 51076

And TVs right?

Mine is wired conventionally but the switch is removed from the throttle linkage. What I'm getting at is the switch wasn't touched either at beginning when the OD wasn't engaging or when the engine stalled out. Could it be that I drug the RPM down too much and just made it cut out? Shouldn't the OD have disengaged itself due to lack of speed?

Yes it stalled a couple times

Been a lot of talk of these lately but I don't recall ever seeing this particular question before. My 48 Plymouth coupe with swapped in 52 overdrive. Wired completely stock for the overdrive but the kickdown is inside the car vs on the throttle linkage. Car does have a 3.73 rear gear. Driving the car to storage last weekend at first the OD didn't want to engage. Couple tries and it started working. Chalking that up to corrosion likely at the under hood fuse holder. On a rural twisty highway along the trip the car cut off a couple times when slowing down for a slower corner. Should I be downshifting ahead of time? Could it be the car stalled because I ended up too slow and the OD kicked out and then I wasnt carrying enough speed?

So no more whining I made a hole in the wall getting a tailgate for turkey truck