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jgreg53

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  • Posts

    258
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    leavenworth ks
  • Interests
    old cars, music
  • My Project Cars
    1948 p15 4 door

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    64 years old. married to the best woman in the world.
  • Occupation
    retired

Converted

  • Location
    leavenworth ks
  • Interests
    family old cars and music

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  1. Well that carb was a bust. I'm going to go back to the guy and try another one. This one won't idle the accelerator jet was plugged up. Fixed that. The hole for the fuel line was stripped. Fixed that. Used propane to find a vacuum leak . Found none. Could the float level cause the stalling when I stop?
  2. I found a guy who has a gold mine of used post war chrysler plymouth and dodge parts . I bought a Carter b and b from him. I got it mounted on the engine. I had to combine the two carbs to get the linkage to work. It ran a lot better. Pulling up to a traffic stop the engine dies. It started right back up. I thought I may have some trash left in the carb although I took it apart and cleaned it up and blew out the passages. So I took it apart again blowing the thing out again. Any suggestions?
  3. I've read the ohms of an aftermarket gauge needs to be 10 to 70 ohms. Still waiting for recommendations. I just don't know which one to buy.
  4. There are modern gauges with 3 wires. 2 from the sender and 1 to switch
  5. I actually don't have a problem with an aftermarket gauge under the dash. I'll leave the one in the dash for looks.
  6. Stever. Someone on here had quoted 10 to 70 ohms. I haven't seen a gauge with exactly those numbers. A lot of the aftermarket gauges don't state the numbers
  7. Fried. Shorted out. Any ideas about an aftermarket gauge?
  8. Can anyone suggest an aftermarket fuel gauge? My p15 is still positive ground 6 volt. Thanks.
  9. Well, I put the gauge in the dash. Hooked up the wires. Turned the switch and it started smoking. Turned off the switch. Investigated, found a bare wire grounded to the metal dash. It fried the heating elements. So much for that. Would a 6 volt gauge for a tractor work?
  10. The reason all this started. I had taken the gauge out the first time because the reading was erratic. In my fumbling to put it back in I broke the wire off the capacitor. I had been trying to solder it back on. I probably ruined it in my attempts if it wasn't bad already. The inner workings of the gauge are kind of a mystery to me. The heating elements somehow cause the needle to move.
  11. I may have stumbled on to something. I hooked the gauge up without the red doohickey. The needle moved. It stopped at a quarter tank but at least it moved. The guts inside the thing are so delicate. Any movement can change the the reading.
  12. It is very delicate. Like a Swiss watch
  13. I should check that out. I had one of those springs break on the rear. It actually happened when I ran over a buckled place in the road.
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