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About ebruns1

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    New Hope, PA 18938
  • Interests
    classic autos, golf, soccer, bourbon, women (not in that order!)
  • My Project Cars
    1947 Chrysler Windsor Coupe
    1948 Dodge Convertible


  • Location
    New Hope, PA 18938
  • Interests
    Old stuff

Contact Methods

  • Occupation

Recent Profile Visitors

918 profile views
  1. I just got done unbolting my body mount bolts from the frame of my 1947. There are probably 20+ heavy bolts of which I had to cut, grind or chisel 50% of them while cursing all the way! It seems to me if you ever get hit hard enough to separate the body from the frame in one of these cars you got much bigger problems! You're not walking away from that wreck...
  2. When I removed my original stainless trim (on my '47) it did not follow the exact shape of the fenders, body, etc. Some were flatter and some were more curved. Clearly the fasteners helped to hold it tight to the sheet metal. From your photo that slight curve does not seem as if it would have any chance of kinking the trim. You may be over-thinking it...but on the other hand I would also have some trepidation about a newly painted car! Good luck. PS - I had to grind off about half my fasteners so I wouldn't be too worried about breaking them! They are plenty strong!
  3. That works! Too dark out to measure my frame now but I'll have a go tomorrow after work. Thanks again sir! JT
  4. First I want to thank Chrysler1941 you are a gentleman and a scholar! But...I WAS WRONG! The Chrysler and Desoto frames are not the same! I printed out your page and the Desoto has a "ladder" frame while my Chrysler has an "A" frame! There are even additional frame mounts too. So I guess I still need a photo of the page from the Chrysler manual if anyone would be so kind. Thanks, JT
  5. Hey Fellas, I only have a Dodge D-19 thru D-24 shop manual and I need a favor from someone who has a Chrysler book. Would you please take a photo of your frame alignment page with all the dimensions like this one from Section IX Frame and Shocks page 150 of my Dodge manual for me? I need to cross reference some dimensions and I know the Chrysler frames were longer than the Dodge and Plymouths. I guess even a DeSoto manual would be the same as the Chrysler I think they were built on the same frames. Want to see if the frame is tweaked or not. It looks pretty straight but now is the time to check it! If anyone needs something from the Dodge shop book just let me know! Thanks. PS - either post the photo to this thread or just PM me directly.
  6. Huge step for me this weekend! My buddy Tom came over with his bigger floor jack and taller jack stands. He suggested we pull the steering tube after disconnecting the shift linkage to have less clutter so we did just that. Only the steering shaft was left. I had previously removed, cut, ground, drilled all the body bolts (or so I thought...). After reading your suggestions on removing the doors I decided to leave them in place for now. So, next we slipped some 2x4's just behind the rocker panels where the 3 or 4 cross bar body channels would distribute the load and then started jacking. We got the front up to almost the capacity of our jacks (mine is only a 1.5 ton Harbor Freight special) and set up the jack stands with some doubled 2x6 beams. Next step was to do the same to the back end. Funny thing, we started jacking and the front started rising and not the rear. We were lifting just in front of the rear wheel fenders under the last rocker frame bracket. Took another look and Tom spotted yet another 2 frame/body bolts under the rear trunk "c" channel. I didn't check in that small gap and sure enough there are 2 carriage bolts that were still holding the rear end. Once we unbolted them the rear end came up smoothly like the front. Then we moved back and forth slowly bringing everything up higher with the help of some paving blocks we needed to get more height on the floor jacks and also the jack stands. I don't like doing this but they are solid concrete so they really can't go anywhere and it worked perfectly. When we got to the highest we could go looking from the rear you could see that the rear pumpkin hump and the rear wheel kick up was still going to hit. Thought about letting air out of the tires but it still wasn't enough so wound up removing tires and slipping some plastic furniture sliders under the bottom shock mounts. We knew it was going to be close. I grabbed my front end loader and hooked up a tow strap. Slowly, slowly, slowly I pulled out the frame while Tom kept an eye on the stands. Just cleared them by 1/4"! Woo-hoo the frame was out! My welder is coming today or tomorrow to assess the rockers and floor pans to see what he needs to fabricate. There are one or two floor cross supports/frame mounts that need replacing. The were originally press formed steel I guess. What have you guys done to replace these? Are they easily fabricated with some tube steel or c-channel? Anyway, it's nice to make some progress! Now I can hardly move, my back is shot and my knees are throbbing...time for more advil! Why didn't I start doing this 20 years ago when I was young(er)! Oh well...I'm learning a little more every day.
  7. Hey Fellas, Finally getting ready to lift body off of frame. Currently the doors fit really nice with an even gap all the way around and they shut pretty well. I would like to lighten up the weight for lifting but those monster big doors kind of scare me! I've removed and replaced pickup truck doors before but nothing like these coupe doors. How heavy and difficult are they to reinstall? Is it a royal PIA to get them to line up again? I don['t want to create a headache if I don't have to, but the passenger rocker really needs to be replaced and I guess having the door off would give better access. What have you guys done? Thanks for any advice! JT
  8. Mike, Dodge and Andy, Thank you all for the replies and specially to Mike for the excellent photograph! Now I clearly see why it won't come off, MORE inaccessible bolts...yay! Also very jealous of Mike's car if it looked that clean after removal in there compared to my rusted North East sheet metal POS. Dang, if I didn't get this one for $800 I would not be putting in the hours wrenching to get it ready to go to my welder/fabricator to fix all the floor pan rot and cross bars and body mounts. Andy, yes I am planning to leave everything attached to the radiator U-mount and lift the front clip off in one piece. The radiator is already out and there is nothing else holding it to the cowl except for the aforementioned 5 bolts per side. Seems easiest to attach an engine hoist to the u-mount and just lift it right up and off. No reason to wrestle with scores of additional half rusted nuts and bolts if I don't have to. Will also make the engine easily accessible too without the inner fenders in the way. It doesn't look like they are attached to the frame anywhere either. Once it's out it can also be easily wet blasted and painted before reassembly. Am I thinking wrong here?
  9. Find the tire size printed on the sidewall. Google vintage tire conversion chart and you will get your answer. Probably around 225-75-15s. I just looked up the same thing earlier today. You should print out the chart to keep handy. The only issue I can see if you go larger is that there will be very little room on the rear between the fender and the hub to remove it if you get a flat.
  10. Hey Fellas! Well, it's been awhile but I've been working diligently removing all the body mounts and let me tell you it's been a struggle! Almost every other nut and bolt has fought me all the way! So I wound up grinding, sawing and using a nut splitter to get every body bolt free. I"m finally in the home stretch but hitting a snag with the front clip. I got the bumpers and splash guards off too. Here's the problem with the front clip: 1. Removed the 2 radiator U-mount bolts from underneath frame 2. Removed the 2 bolts on the bottom of the front fenders where they bolt into the cowl. 3. Removed the 4 bolts (2 each side) where the rear front fender sits on the little support shelf. 4. Removed the belt line trim and the 4 screws (2 each side) that holds the top rear of each fender to the cowl. So, what else is left? It doesn't really want to budge even with two of us trying to lift it. It seems like the clip can't be lifted straight up anyway as the bottom rear of the fenders wrap under the body metal so that you almost have to pull it straight forward to slide it out before lifting. Am I correct in my methodology? Did I miss any other bolts that I don't see? Also, just so you know everything coming through the firewall including the steering wheel have been removed or cut or disconnected. This is get me scratching my head. I'd be grateful for any insight! Thanks, Jim
  11. Spend your time reading this forum and searching answers. Almost everything you will need to know has been covered by the knowledgeable folks in here! It's worth spending a few hours just browsing previous posts on whatever topics you are wondering about. Good luck!
  12. I need them as well and they are very hard to find. Yes the brackets are on eBay for $100 ea. but that's without the arm and the visor! Unless you are building a show car you may want to find a close Ford or Chevy substitute for 1/4 the price. I'm hoping one of the more commonly available cars might have something close enough to use on mine. Good luck and let us know what you find out. Jim
  13. Hello 46-48 Owners, A few of you fellas suggested I should remove my door lock mechanisms to clean, lube and check/change/adjust springs for the "star" catch. While this sounds like a wonderful idea, from what I can gather in researching this forum removing the old lock cylinders is a monumental task. I have no idea what the PO may have installed or modified but when I popped off the spring guards on the retainer spring all I can see is what looks like a hollow tube, no phillips head screw (see photo). Any thoughts on what to do next? Does this hold the shaft of the lock cylinder in place? Do I assume correctly that I must remove the lock cylinder and shaft in order to pull out the latch mechanism to service it? It looks like someone may have already drilled a hole in mine. Does it pull out, or should I try using a punch to push it in? Any suggestions would be helpful. The exploded parts diagram someone posted on the lock cylinder threads does not ever show the locking screw or how it works.
  14. There are 3-4 of the same model for sale on Craigslist near me. In better shape and running asking is $3500. Not running and about same condition as yours asking $1500. If family history is important to you I would keep it and wait until you have the time to put towards it. If you have no inclination mechanically and would rather buy a driver, then by all means get what you can (my guess is $1000) and put that towards a running car you only have to maintain. My guess is prices on running 4-door sedans are only going to drop as the old timers pass away and their kids have little to no interest in these old cars. It's a good opportunity to pick one up cheap.
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