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  • Gender
  • Location
    North Iowa
  • My Project Cars
    1951 Plymouth


  • Location
    North Iowa
  • Interests
    Old cars, pinball machines, pop machines

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  1. Having a coworker who got severely burned due to a workplace prank. Another who's fingers got smashed. Loosing new employees who quit due to bullying with "initiation" pranks. Guy with 25 years in loosing his job instantly by thinking it was "funny" to give a female employee a dildo when she asked for a 6" standard calibration rod. And I ending up in the emergency room when they thought it was "funny" to grease my safety glasses. I have ZERO tolerance or time for workplace pranks, horseplay, or initiation bulling. When you people who are doing this get severely injured, a coworker gets severely injured, or you get fired for your pranks, maybe you won't think it is so "funny" after all.
  2. Did a quick search, looks to be useful in the future with my K-Cars.
  3. I may be mistaken as it was many years ago. My dad bought a 1951 Plymouth 2 door sedan (a Cambridge?) as a rust free parts car for the fenders for my '51 Plymouth. Found out that the 2 door sedan rear fenders were different than the other Plymouth cars of that year. Maybe a Hollinger's (sp?) interchange manual of that era may be of help.
  4. The flasher snaps into the holder so I would think it has a good ground. As said before it worked then didn't work with no changes until I stated trying to fix it. Thanks for the suggestion of a jumper. I will try that that to make sure the wire from the flasher to the bulb is okay, but I still don't have power to the "P" terminal on the flasher that goes to the light.
  5. A while back my turn signal indicator in the gauge cluster on my '51 Plymouth quit flashing. Turn signals on the outside of the car still worked so no concern at the time. Now trying to get the indicator light working again. 1st and most obvious was to replace the bulb. Bulb I took out looked good but replaced it anyways. Still doesn't work. Took my test light and tried each terminal on the flasher (6V HD) labeled X, L, and P which according to my wiring diagram goes to the instrument panel light. Key on and turn signal off X lights up somewhat dim, L lights up, and P has no light. Tested with key on, turn signal on. Outside lights flash. X flashes, L stays lit although slightly flashes, and P has no light. I can hear the flasher clicking. Took a NIB flasher (NAPA brand) from my spare parts in the trunk and replaced flasher, same results. Even switched the X and L around and made no difference. Other than than chance of having 2 bad flashers what else could be wrong?
  6. 1951 Cranbrook 218cid Been noticing a coolant smell on startup, especially after sitting for awhile, along with my radiator not staying full (below the core instead of just above) and temp running a little hotter than I would like. Plan on taking the head off this winter and see what I find. Noticed 2 types of gaskets are available - Fel-Pro "copper faced" and Mahle "composite". Any preferences on which one to get? When the engine was rebuilt it was a Fel-Pro gasket set so I guessing a "copper" one was put in then.
  7. Growing up my dad frequented the local "Bumper to Bumper" parts store. Narrow storefront in the middle of the block but had an upstairs and a basement. Display area in the front of the store was about the size of a single stall garage. But they had the parts in back and very rarely did you need to special order something. My dad, and I after I turned 16 and had to buy parts for my own vehicle, got to know the manager quite well. Then they switched the name to "CarQuest". Then they moved to a more modern (former restaurant) free standing store. Huge display area but limited rack space for storage. This location under CarQuest lasted maybe 3 more years. Seen the manager a few years later working at another parts store and asked what happened. He said 90% of his business was commercial accounts with deliveries and 10% walk-in sales before the move. Corporate felt that they needed more display space and an easier building to access for the DYI group. Couldn't keep enough parts stocked for the commercial accounts who needed the part right now and didn't want to wait for it to be shipped from a warehouse so they lost them to the competitors. Not enough walk-in sales to keep the store open and I think they blamed the manager even though it was no fault of his own and had a very profitable store before they moved. I miss that old store and not needing to walk up and down the aisles try to find the part you need.
  8. I have a pair of Iowa YOM plates for every one of my old cars. Plus pairs for most years from the late 50s to the mid 80s as I never know what I might acquire next. However, the newer old cars have the same 3 letters/3 numbers combination as the current state of Iowa plates so I cannot use them on those cars
  9. Any problems in installing a 6V clock in a car that has been converted to 12V? Clock will "click" then "tick" and hands will move for awhile when hooked to a 6V battery, but the car it is going into has been converted to 12V. Car is a '48 or '49 Chrysler.
  10. If you do have/find/replace the correct head bolt be sure to "shine it up" with no paint or rust where the cable contacts. Might also be a good time to replace the cable and have the proper gauge size, 0 or 1 gauge I think is correct.
  11. Re-torqued the head bolts. I was able to tighten all of them some, the middle ones a little more. As I said it only did this after sitting for a few months, might need to wait until next spring to find out if this fixed it. If not, looks like I will need to pull the head and investigate further.
  12. Only did this as a test to see if bubbles were coming up through the radiator, wanted the coolant to cover/fill the upper radiator hose. After it cooled down put the cap back on and a catch pan underneath. Restarted and let it idle for awhile and have the coolant overflow into the catch pan as it heated up.
  13. That is a possibility but in the hundreds of miles I have driven it since any major engine work I would think this would have burned out. Yes, the studs were sealed, learned that from personal experience many years ago. It only smokes/smells when it has been sitting for an extended period of time. Went and started it today after sitting for 2 days and no smoke/smell. Will try re-torquing the head bolts and see if that helps.
  14. No coolant in the oil as far as I know. Oil is clean and just below the full line. Did an oil change at 100 miles after the rebuild on nothing out of the normal. Re-torquing the head bolts is something to consider as I don't think it was probably done. Easy to do as the head bolts were numbered in the order they were torqued. Do I do this to a cold, warm, or hot engine? Pound/feet to torque it to? The shop manual is back at the building where I store it.
  15. '51 Plymouth with stock 218. Engine was rebuilt less than 1,000 miles ago. After the car has sat for a longtime (months) when starting it up I will get a strong smell of antifreeze/coolant and white smoke comes out of the exhaust for a few minutes. It has probably happened since the engine was rebuilt but never realized because I would always pull the car out right away and the weather was a always little chilly in the spring so assumed it was just vapor due to the cold air and moisture that may have been it the exhaust system, didn't really smell the coolant as by then it was idling outside. Earlier this week started it up after sitting for about 2 months and let it idle in the building before pulling it out and notice the smell/smoke. Lasted less than 5 minutes. Brought it home and checked things out a few nights later. Coolant level is okay, an inch or so above the fins. Filled it full to the top and let the car idle for 15-20 minutes and about 3/4 of the way to hot on the temp. gauge, no bubbles coming up through the radiator. Something to be overly concerned about? As posted previously this rebuilt engine runs MUCH warmer than my old engine, especially in parades, if this is related to the problem.
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