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Just picked this up today. 1937 Desoto 4 door. 95% there and 95% solid!

My Wards tractor: I pulled my IND265 engine from an Oliver Combine - no pictures of that. I have seen welders powered by these engines. I have seen air compressors built from these engines with special heads - the engine runs on 3 cylinders and uses the other 3 cylinder to pump and compress air. Forklifts, Payloaders, Snow blowers, airport tugs, cement trucks, boats, irrigation pumps, the list is endless. Perhaps the most impressive usage of these engines was in WWII tanks..... 5 engines bolted together onto a common jackshaft with a dry sump oiling making a 30 cylinder engine..... On Edit: I will see about digging out my small ad collection. I have about a dozen magazine ads I have gathered up selling Chrysler Industrial engines that show them being used in various different applications. I plan on framing them up for part of a wall display when I build the new house.

Ok, I’m almost there. Got the tranny and bell housing back from the machine shop (Hansen’s in Sacramento). They did a great job. Got it all hooked up last Friday and today I started it and ran through the gears. No grinding, do I guess that’s a plus. The drive shaft is at the shop and I’ll get it back by the end of the week. Need to bleed the brakes and it’ll be ready for a test drive. I installed a electric fuel pump with a canister filter and pressure regulator. So far no leaks. Here’s a couple of photos. I don’t like the S10 shift stick but it’ll do for now. It looks a little too European for my taste. I’ll fab something a little more truck-like later.

So my truck stalled ( luckily in my driveway ) and I could tell it was a fuel delivery issue. When it got warm enough and I had time enough I did the problem solving to find that my fuel pump was no longer pumping. Well that fuel pump is one of the newest parts on my truck but what the hell, I went looking for a replacement part. Whilst googling for the part a post from this forum popped up in the search so I read it. Found out about these rocker arm pivot pins walking out on newer fuel pumps. I pulled my pump and sure enough, that was the problem, pushed it back in, staked it, and back in business. Though like the guy in the post I read I am not sure I trust the staking and will probably make a clip to hold it in place. This forum is priceless, and I really appreciate everyone sharing what they learned. Even though I have had my truck for 46 years (and have been the sole mechanic to work on it all those years) , I am still learning. As more repo parts come out with problems or needed workarounds, I suspect we all are still learning. Thanks to everyone who contributes!

Massey Harris altered wheat harvesting forever during WWII. Just before the war they created what is widely considered the first "modern" combine - the Model 21. Once the war started and materials were restricted it really hurt the roll out of this fantastic new machine. This is where the genius of the head of Massey Harris marketing changed history.... He went to the war board and pleaded a case that if they could build 500 combines and sell them to farmers with the promise that each one would harvest 2000 acres - the promise also included that the new machines would save gas, improve yields by more efficiency in the threshing process, and free up horses and tractors for other tasks. The war board bought into this concept in 1944 - MH built the combines and farmers fought over them.... then harvest came - they started in Texas as the wheat matured there first and worked their way north. They used airplanes to survey the fields and direct these new "harvest crews" to where the wheat was ready. It was a HUGE success and they averaged over 2000 acres per machine that first year. This put them miles ahead of the competition with a million acres of harvest experience and development. This program just grew and grew year after year and gave birth the huge harvest crews that roam the west today harvesting. The moral of this story? It was powered by a flathead Chrysler 6.

Here’s the second photo.

Well I'm back and after going through a bit of a winter/life funk, I ended up tearing into this project. Pulled the engine back out because it wasn't turning. Problem was unrelated to the engine but I had pulled the head anyways. Fresh Fel-Pro gasket on with Copper spray on the metal side against the block per Fel-Pro intructions and the link Sniper sent and thread sealant on the bolts. Pulled the water distribution tube while I was doing things and flushed the block as best as I could with a power washer. It was quite gross. WDT was in great shape and brass which is a big bonus and came out with a few easy taps. So once that is back in along with a new water pump and Radiator I am going to bench test it in order to get my heat cycle for retorque. Also as a kicker it turns out that at some point this engine was bored .030 and at least new pistons were installed. Going to assume it was rebuilt at some point in its career and thats fine with me.

I bought it! After a minor accident at the gas station first thing this morning, icy roads, 600+ miles and 15 hours later, I got myself a 51 Dodge 1 ton. It's currently still on the trailer at a friend's house, too tired to deal with it tonight in the cold and dark. She's got a few unexpected issues, but the price was right and the truck is awesome. We got a lot of looks and thumbs up on the way home with it. I'm looking forward to warmer temps and getting to know this thing better. For now, here's a couple pics from today.

One ‘54 Plymouth park lens and base was for sale on eBay for $45. There was a bid option so I bid $25 which was accepted. The part arrived today complete with rubber gasket, four mounting screws, and three lens, two late design, one early and the complete mount. Now that is what I call honest business. Thank you JVP!!!

This is a 1960 Massey combine. It had the original 265IND engine, low hours, original plug wires, distributor cap and points. Motor ran like a top, 35psi idle oil pressure, governor set at 1950 rpms max. Compression measured 125 psi all cylinders per operators manual which I have as well.

I just purchased 2 Daytona UN2 carbs, they look like copies of the Carter B&B.They feature an externally adjustable main jet. Haven’t run them yet. https://daytonaparts.com/m/replacement_carburetor_chevy.html

Travis, great meeting you yesterday and very odd we are from the same home town! ? Super solid truck! You made a great purchase!

Here is a little info on the 313 cu. in. V8 : The 313 is considered in the A engine family. The A engines are mostly the polyspherical engines (277, 301, 303, 313, 318 poly, & 326). "The Chrysler A engine is a small-block V8 gasoline engine built by Chrysler with polyspherical combustion chambers. It was produced from 1956 until 1967, when it was replaced by the wedge-head LA engine. It is not related to the hemispherical-head Hemi engine of the same era."

Been thinking about putting an OD trans in. I have a couple of A833OD transmissions and there is an adapter made to put one of them in. The trans gear ratios are different for 1st and 2nd so I crunched some numbers to see what the effective gear ratio (trans gear ratio and rear axle gear ratio combined) would be for several rear axle ratios. Here's what I have. Stock A833OD Effective gear ratios Stock A833OD 4.10 4.10 3.73 3.55 1st 2.57 3.09 10.54 12.67 11.53 10.97 2nd 1.83 1.67 7.50 6.85 6.23 5.99 3rd 1.00 1.00 4.10 4.10 3.73 3.73 OD 0.73 ----- 2.99 2.72 2.60 Looks like the A833 with 3.55 rear gear ratio is the least objectionable change from the stock effective ratios. First gear being the biggest issue, imo. Now I know of someone making an 18 spline A833 gearset that is a lot closer to our stock ratios, but the vig is enormous.

last parts came in today for my lift.......hopefully this is done and done been waiting to put this thing to bed.......buildings are complete also and outfitted for working as needed...now to get back onto a car project or three.....I finished the lift with finals to cover the cable ends and attached gargoyles just for dress....Installed a 30" mirror for to see where I am at when driving on.....few boxes to file away yet....just in time I hope as the weather is breaking a bit for us.

Agreed. Although they look a bit different to my D9. They are called "headlining retaining strips "

On my '48 coupe they are around the door.

Just don’t catch your cat on fire the garage might burn down.........

I am really interested in your experience with these once you get them in. Both my 49 and 52 Carters run/ran rich and the externally adjustable main is very appealing.

A 230 would be a great more powerful upgrade. Dump the junk 201.

When you increase stroke the crank will push the piston further up the bore and pull it further down the bore. To keep the piston from smacking into the head you either need to shorten the rod half the stroke increase or shorten the piston height the same amount. Chrysler chose to shorten the rod.

the shorter rod is to provide the longer throw of the crank to move the piston deeper into the bore thus creating an increase in cylinder volume while the upper portion of the throw moves the piston back closer to top of the block with the piston.....this slightly larger throw creates the larger displacement (X times 6) is also the mathematical increase of CR 218/230 given they share the same bore and piston...

Buying bore gauges/micrometers may SEEM expensive,but they are not as expensive as putting an engine together with the wrong clearances. Plus,you get to play with tools. Win/win.

You usually can look at the block to main cap foot print stain to confirm correct cap location... As long as the block has not been tanked. When caps are mis- matched they usually bolt done fine but they offset to the side, the bore block to cap line is off and or the bore of the block and cap is completely wrong. Another reason to have a set of bore gauges or a bore gauge and a set of micrometers at a minimum to build an engine knowing specs are correct.

There is a connector terminal block on my 47 Plymouth on the driver's side, up front on the inner fender area....I believe it has 3 connectors and is held to the car with two bolts. Both the headlight wires and parking light wires attach to it. Do you have a repair manual and a parts manual for your car? If not, I would suggest purchasing one of each. The attached picture is an item that goes on a Chevrolet but is similar in appearance to one on out model vehicles. Hope it helps. The mopar item I have is all metal.

As you can see it was a little crusty. I was on the”im not dumping a bunch of time and money into this” train. and i dont regret it at all,it runs like a top. I did clean it up,and i reused the copper head gasket as well. It ran, pretty decent,and got 3 oil changes. Im sure it has run all of 10 hours and no degrading of anything, still has great oil pressure. So,it got a few new odds and ends.

instrument light low / off / instrument lights high...

Maybe lets see if we can have some fun with this thread and post photos of examples of Chrysler Industrial engines in use. The Air Raid siren kicked it off. Let's see what you've bumped into? What old piece of equipment have you seen with an Industrial engine?

Thought I'd share my Indestro tool collection. I started collecting old American made tools recently and Indestro is one of my favorites, along with Plomb & Proto. The wrench set I just picked up yesterday for $12, with the box and only missing one wrench (a 25/32 x 7/8 I believe).

The Plymouth Doctor sells what you need, but I have no idea as to the prices.

I did not realize there is another series of Chrysler flathead industrial engines. This is a Canadian manual I have - 251, 265,and 313 Ind engines...

Do the work yourself, that's 75% of the fun. Me personally, I will never buy a done car. I don't want someone elses car and that includes who's working on it. The newset thing I drive is from 59. They keep you tinkering but like I said, that's most of the fun. Have fun and good luck.

Be a troubleshooter, not a parts changer.......

Basic troubleshooting is the same for any make. You haven't even told us if you checked for spark or fuel. So who knows where to start looking for issues. Before you jump into rebuilding things, if the engine spins why is the starter being sent out for rebuild, I suggest we figure out if it needs that major a job done. Does it have spark? Is fuel in the carb? Both are yes/no answers. Once we know these things we can make some cogent decisions as to where to go next.

Well, it's going to have stay on the trailer another day or two. With schedules (pesky gainful employment), time is a bit short right now. I want to rinse the 300 miles of salty road spray off it at the car wash, but the warm weather has everyone flocking to the carwashes. Waiting will work out well since it will allow the roads to dry up. In the meantime, here's another pic of it. Makes that 1 ton Chev look little! (with some help from the proper perspective) A game of patience now.

That's the plan. Make it safe and reliable to drive and let it be what it is, a 70 year old farm truck.

37 Dodge 1.5 ton pu. Originally a fire truck,now a work in progress. Anyone interested can follow the build progress on the truck side of the board.

Ok,being a former career SF soldier in the army,I ran across these photos and found the comparison amusing. The first photo is of soldiers from a conventional Army airborne division making a standard military parachute jump. The second photo is of a SF Scuba Committe team making what is,for them,a typical parachute jump. Who do YOU think is having the most fun?

Greg..........as Doc says the Shebby and Frod engines will fit however you'll probably get more brownie points from us Mopar Morons with a mopar engine in it...have you considered hopping up the side valve six?.......finned heads, exhaust headers, twin/triple carb intakes, cams and more are available.........this was the 230 cube engine I intended to stick in the 41 Plymouth I had, there are lots of things that you can do to the 6 and again all will gain brownie points from rodders and even restorers.....as for a V8 swap, as I mentioned the Poly is very wide and unless you really must have a Poly then the late A or LA series engines are fine and are actually about the same size as chec & frod engines..........but its your choice.........regards...andyd

JR, Neil Riddle (206) 285-6534 Been around quite a while for a good reason. I've dealt with him on numerous occasions and always came away happy. He used to send out little fliers but I think anymore you just call him and tell him what you want and he'll give you a price. Easy going guy. -Randy

I have come behind a couple folks and found that you should properly index the timing pump to the cam at TDC for correct position of the distributor rotor. AND it is also a good time to install the distributor as more than not you will end up rotating the engine crank somewhere between this point and engine firing..Pay attention to the oil lines and see they are connected and tightened. Lastly..test you fuel system prior to start to ensure the float is not sticking as it has been laid aside for the rebuild period.

Yes, you should be happy! And looked after too. They are pretty thin steel in mine and after 20 years of sitting on a shelf mine were trash. Another hiccup that took a bit of effort to track down replacements.....I have a list of things that I would do better next time.....

Huh. Let me try attaching it from my phone