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TravisL17

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TravisL17 last won the day on July 19

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About TravisL17

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    MN
  • Interests
    Anything with an engine
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Dodge Meadowbrook

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  • Location
    St Paul, MN
  • Interests
    Anything with an engine

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  1. @Sniper - After you mentioned the one ring possibly being chrome it made a lot more sense. I called the parts supplier that I purchased from and they clarified that the black ring is chrome and goes on top. Also said the new style pistons can be put in either direction since there is no heat dam. Thanks for the help, its appreciated.
  2. My parts arrived today and I need some advice on a couple items. First is piston rings - These are NOS rings that I ordered. When comparing the new rings, the cast colored ring has sharper corners than the black ring, and the black ring has a dot on it. Near as I can tell from comparing pistons out of old engines, the black ring with the dot is the lower compression ring. I looked at piston rings out of two engines I have here, both have a dot only on the lower compression ring and the lower compression ring has a larger end gap compared to the upper ring. The new rings didn't come
  3. I recently purchased a part from them online. They called me the next day to confirm some info. I missed the call and called them back. They answered pretty quickly and got my part shipped. Its supposed to arrive today. I've had good experiences with Bernbaum, sorry to hear you're having a hard time.
  4. I found a kit on Rockauto recently that says they're brass. I contacted the manufacturer to find out what comes in the kit. Company is QualCast and kit part number and contents are below. Price was around $18. I have not ordered one yet. Below is their reply to my email. 97-61B: 7 96-1625CCB Brass 1-5/8 Concave Cup 1 96-1375CC Steel 1-3/8 Concave Cup 2 96-375HCPP Steel 3/8” Hex pipe plug
  5. It was painted in 97 by the PO. Monarch Maroon, I'm told its an original color offered by Dodge. The original color of the car was a blue/grey color, not sure of the actual name.
  6. I've made some more progress on the Meadowbrook the last couple days. I sent the 55 head to the machine shop and had it cleaned up, mag checked and milled flat. He had to take .014 off to make it flat again. Once I got the head back home I realized the hole in the head for the temp gauge bulb was way too small. It was 1/4NPT and needs to be 1/2NPT for the gland nut to fit. Drilled and tapped it to the correct size and thread. Then I found the hole in the head for the throttle linkage bellcrank pivot was 3/8NPT and needed to be 5/16 UNC. So I drilled and tapped the center of a 3/8 pipe plug to
  7. Your truck turned out amazing! Great work and congratulations! Now drive the heck out of it and have fun!
  8. I finally got back to digging into the engine more. I was going back and forth between just doing the one cylinder or doing all 6. My gut said do all 6, but time and budget was saying just do the one. I decided to do all the rings, swap in a used piston to replace the failed one and hone all 6. I pulled the other five pistons out today and cylinder 5 was the only one that DIDN'T have a broken ring. Cylinder 1 had both compression rings broken. I know they aren't fresh breaks from removal because the breaks had carbon stains and smoothed edges from rubbing together. I never would have guessed t
  9. I found one on Ebay last winter for my car sold as untested. I got lucky, not knowing anything about clocks, I was able to repair it and get it working. I ran it on the bench hooked up to the battery out of my car and ran it through my Fluke DVOM. It ran for several days averaging only 1ma of current. Its been in my car all this season and have not had any issue with battery drain.
  10. This morning I removed the carbon ridge from cyl 3, dropped the pan and pulled piston 3. The mic set im using only goes to 3" so I used a digital caliper for a quick piston measurement. Measured out to 3.25 on the skirt perpendicular to the wrist pin. Think its safe to say this is a standard bore. The top compression ring is in pieces and missing about 1/4 of it. Check out the piece of double decker compression ring! I'm still surprised about the lack of ridge, must be a lower mileage motor than expected. I will aquire a bore gauge and measure the cylinder properly.
  11. I do not own bore gauges. Either will borrow or purchase. I too am curious about bore measurements. I'm still surprised about the lack of ridge. There isn't much crosshatch left. I have a set of .030 over pistons, if I could be so lucky that this block is .030 over. Thanks for the info on cost. I was on Egge's website today and saw rebuild kits for about 1700 and seem pretty complete. Machining is not cheap, but it's a skilled trade. And craftsmanship is getting harder to find these days, so good machinists are worth their asking price.
  12. Update on my engine issue. I will preface this by saying that I was trying to do a quick and dirty repair to finish out the summer and do a proper repair over winter. Checked all the rod bearings- #3 was the worst and you could see where the babbitt was cracking and letting go of the steel back. Others had some scoring and embedded debris, but not beat up like #3. I looked through rod bearings from some of my parts engines and picked the best looking one. Also mic'd a couple journals and they measured just a bit under 2 1/16th (measurements are out in garage). Difference was small enough that
  13. So, the number 3 bearing is different than the others I removed and the upper half was installed so the oil hole didn't line up with the hole in the rod. Plus the lockwashers on the rod caps are all missing. I did a Google search on the number on the back of #3 bearing and its standard size. I have a bunch of NOS bearings and a parts book from July 1950. None of the bearings I have will fit a 50 Dodge. I assume a 55 Plymouth crank is the same as a 50 Dodge. Anyone have parts manual for 55 that will confirm the bearings I have will/won't work for this engine? Also, anyone know what the standard
  14. Decided to drive the Meadowbrook to work today since its not so hot and humid. 25 miles into my 29 mile commute the engine started knocking. Had good oil pressure the whole time. Thanks to roadside insurance I got it towed home and began investigating. Pan removal revealed that #3 rod seemed a bit loose. Pulled the cap and found this I need help deciphering what the info on the bearing is. Does the SB indicate standard size bearing? My plan is to go old school down and dirty with it. Clean up the crank journals as needed, put in needed bearings and finish out the summer wit
  15. Already got that tool made! Along with a long set of picks I bought a while ago. Some of the sediment gets pretty hard and takes quite a bit of force to break it free. What are your thoughts on the water distribution tube...let it be and see how it cools, or pull it out now. Are they prone to clogging up or do they corrode and fall apart? I haven't pulled the water pump yet, but do intend to replace it along with removing the radiator so I can back flush it. I've never pulled a water distribution tube, I've read on here that they can be real stubborn. Just picked up a plastic kidd
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