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Loving my Truck. Just need to try and get a bit more speed out of her. Getting about 40 mph. 360 Flathead 4 speed. Don't believe you can buy ring and pinions for these anymore can ya. Maybe a 5 speed transplant is in need, would take care of the no syncro tranny also. Anyways sorry for rambling I just wanted to share my truck with the group. Have a great weekend! Scott

My '36 Airstream has some very deco features. I've attached pictures of the grill and the gauges. The lettering on the gauges is notable.

Lifted from a LBC forum I frequent: A Group of blokes, all aged about 40, discussed where they should meet for lunch. Finally it was agreed that they would meet at Wetherspoons in Uxbridge because the waitresses had big breasts and wore mini-skirts. Ten years later, at age 50, the friends once again discussed where they should meet for lunch. Finally it was agreed that they would meet at Wetherspoons in Uxbridge because the waitresses were attractive. the food and service was good and the beer selection was excellent. Ten years later, at age 60, the friends again discussed where they should meet for lunch. Finally it was agreed that they would meet at Wetherspoons in Uxbridge because there was plenty of parking, they could dine in peace and quiet with no loud music, and it was good value for money. Ten years later, at age 70, the friends discussed where they should meet for lunch. Finally it was agreed that they would meet at Wetherspoons in Uxbridge because the restaurant was wheelchair accessible and had a toilet for the disabled. Ten years later, at age 80, the friends discussed where they should meet for lunch. Finally it was agreed that they would meet at Wetherspoons in Uxbridge because they had never been there before.

Hey fellas got my car running again (it was a faulty fuel pump) and I wanted to start a new thread and leave my engine rebuild thread as something separate. In this thread I'm going to post pics of me and my family's trips/shows/gatherings and anything else fun that we do with the car. Tonight we went out for a cruise over to a neighboring town. It was sunny and 70s here today with hardly a cloud. Perfect evening for a drive. Mostly I drove just 40mph because that's what felt good Its so much fun to drive the old Dodge; our new cars simply have no soul. There's a bunch of shows and gatherings coming up soon around here, we hope to hit all of them. Here's some pics from today: I guess only the first pic is from us being out and about. The other 3 are when we got back home LOL. The back roads around here are really fun, but you have to watch out for deer!

But then they most likely have charged extra for the oil(?)! DJ

So true! I've been payin' and playin a lot lately so I need to let my pennies stack up again.

A friend helped me adjust the clutch yesterday, now I see how easy that is. She's right where it should be. I exercised the Fluid Drive a few times on our ride. I love how it idles down to about 400-450rpm when you don't bother to push in the clutch... Goodnight Meadowbrook....

Thanks both of you yea i think am just going to leave as is for now car runs great so why mess with it huh ?

Thanks! Always looking at good tire options.

That is exactly why I suggest he have the machine shop source the bearings.

Agree, no reason to change to 12v just for the exercise and the shiverlay bracket is pretty much a paper weight. There is nothing similar between the two engines..... well, ok, spark plugs.....

I would be concerned that a connecting rod bearing is available -.040 for this engine.

Furby,I am not trying to be a wiseass or to discourage you in any way from learning to work on your car,but if you have to ask if a bracket will bolt on an engine and work,you do NOT want to covert a 6 volt positive ground electrical system to a 12 volt negative ground system using an alternator. Electrical system mistakes can cause a fire that will burn the car to the ground,and you may be in it when it burns. If you are committed to doing this right away,hire a pro to do it for you, Wiring and brakes are not the areas to take chances on,although brakes are much simpler. Also,in case you don't know,there is absolutely nothing wrong with the 6 volt systems themselves if they are in good condition. Automakers only switched to 12 volt systems when higher compression larger engines became popular and they needed the extra "umph" to start them. Alternators came in when auto manufacturers started loading cars down with electrical options like air conditioning,cruise control,power antennas,power seats,and power windows. If you car has the original engine it is fine as it is if your wiring is good. Get someone who understands wiring to check your wiring harness for shorts because unlike modern cars these old cars had cloth-covered wiring,and it;s more common for bare wires to be exposed due to age,mice,etc,etc,etc than the modren plastic-covered wiring. I personally have several old cars or trucks that are still running their original 6 volt systems,and am perfectly happy with them to the point where I have no intention of changing over to 12 volts or an alternator. My daily drivers in good weather at this point is an all-original 51 Ford coupe and a 1937 IHC pu. Both have 6 volt systems with generators. I hope to be adding my 31 Plymouth coupe to the mix this summer and my 42 Dodge coupe to the mix sometime in the near future. Both will also have the original 6 volt systems. This board is filled with people with original or restored cars that are perfectly happy with the original systems,as well as a few others who have switched over to 12 volt negative ground systems and alternators for their own reasons. It's all about personal choice. Either will work fine if in good condition with a stock car or truck. You are new to old cars,so the most important rule of mechanics and restoration you need to understand at this point is "If it ain't broke,don't fix it." Fix what you HAVE to fix at this point,like the brakes,and enjoy the car by driving it as you learn more about it and gain a little experience and knowledge. There have been more good old cars and trucks dragged off to the scrap yards due to novice owners with all the enthusiasm in the world and no experience who tear them apart to rebuild them without even driving them,and then get in over their heads financially as well as mechanically,and just give up than any other reason. Drive it,enjoy it,and learn from it as you go. This ain't a contest. You don't have to have the most modern,the most original,or the most anything car in the world. You do have to have one you can drive and enjoy,or what is the purpose? BTW,if this car has been sitting since 1998,your ONLY concerns right now should be in completely rebuilding the brakes and the fuel delivery system. Replace or rebuild EVERYTHING in the brake system,including the brake lines and the rubber hoses. Do it ALL at the same time because it all NEEDS to be replaced or rebuilt. Use the new copper/nickel brake lines you can bend by hand without kinking because it is easier to install,and because it will never rust inside or out. Buy new rubber brake hoses because your old ones are 50+ years old and rotten. Buy new wheel cylinders because it is cheaper to buy new ones these days than it is to rebuild old ones. Master cylinders can almost always be rebuilt,so you can save a few dollars by rebuilding the one you have. Brakes are NOT the place to cut corners or to try to save money. Then use the same hard lines on the fuel system you used on the brake system,but in a larger diameter,all new rubber brake hoses and fuel filters that are rated for use with ethanol. This is VERY important as ethanol will eat old rubber fuel hoses and plastic filters like acid,and your car might catch fire while you are driving it down the road. Focus on brakes first,fuel system second,and then move on to other areas like the electrical system. Make it safe,and then make it reliable.

LOVE that wagon! I get to borrow Dads 66.

Congratulations! There is nothing like the feeling of satisfaction you get from making an old machine run properly.

this really belongs in the "parts wanted" section...

Finally found my issue. After lots of worries and frustrations. The ground wire ( clothed wrap) wire. Looked fine. Was gonna make new anyway. Running outta things to look for. So completely ( minus shaft ) disassembled the dizzy and cleaned and ran all new hardware. Ended up being the ground wire on plate. Wire inside of jacket was burnt or burning. Had some black on ends. Anyway. Repaired put back together. Car is running as should. Very smooth , k thought i was going crazy there for a bit. Car has been down well over a month. Over a simple small wire connection. Just goes to show. Don't over look anything. I'm happy now though. You bet ya. I'm glad I didn't pull head. Have 18 "s of vacum now timing is 6 degrees BTDC.

We are in Bath, sure would like to meet up. Be here til the 22nd. Paul

Nice car and those keys are amazing.....have never seen that type of detail on keys here in Oz......that 65 Fury wagon is a neat car also, here in Oz we got only got 1951 Dodge 4 dr Sedans that were Plymouth bodied and the same thing was done with 1965 Dodges......we got Plymouth Fury 4dr sedans with Dodge badging tho' from 67-72 Oz got both Fury 4dr Sedans & 4dr Hardtops, both sold as Dodge Phoenixs...........regards, Andyd.

Yes, I'm running modern radials. Not sure what size off hand, but I will check them tomorrow AM and let you know

Love original cars! Out of curiosity, are you running radials on it? If so, what size?

^^^^^ DING DING DING

The Hemi four bolt housings are always seen on Ebay.......Two bolts are not nearly as common

The OE aluminum six cylinder housing is a two bolt housing not four. Four bolts is for 1951-54 Hemi.

I was able to source Monroe shocks to fit the application. Part # 33095, 21.5 inches extended and 13.5 compressed so about 4 inches travel either way for my resting suspension. Monroe #5959 are the same size with the higher end gas and #3095 are the hydraulic only units. You need to press the shaft and bushings from the shocks and use the original car bushes.

A good part of the fun of keeping an old car on the road is the stories, finding old pictures, and small things associated with the car. Those keys are really nice, I have the extra set that the original owner never used for my 1976 Wartburg. The finish on your Dodge says to me, "Hey, I'm still here doing my job, better than most.".

Paul has done at a great at hiding all the still burnt more hidden parts! Well he is not hiding the outside, but?? Not sure if I would ride in it! Not sure if the outside would look better with a spray (rattle can) paint job or not? Paul I am completely pulling your leg! Sorry if I pulled the wrong one? DJ

Bob....yep makes me laugh every time I see those "rare" suicide doors mentioned in adverts..............have thought about asking whether the sellers have the not rare version with front hinged doors available ..........lol...........reminds me of the time that the local supermarket here in oz had mandarins for sale with a large sign saying they were "low in salt".........lol.........I went and asked the manager if they had any high salt mandarins as I preferred them...........lol...............and he actually went & checked...................oh its good to get up in the morning sometimes..........lol..........yeh, rare suicide doors........love it..........regards, andyd

I don't think the suicide doors were "rare" in their day........as many makes used suicide doors in those years. The seller says "original car", but to me, the seats/door panels do not appear original but nice replacements. That opinion and about a buck will get you a cuppa coffee.

Actually my dash is painted a tannish-brown color. The other original '39, '40, and '41 woodies that I've seen also have a solid color – different from the body color. In the late 30s and early 40s wagons were considered utilitarian vehicles and they really didn't try to make them look attractive. Blond wood with beige body and fenders and a tan top. Inside bracketry was a baby-yellow. I decided to go a different route and highlight the streamline moderne aspects of the craftsmanship by powdercoating all brackets, fenders, and metal bits, a color called "statuary bronze". Gives it a bit of a steampunk look I think. I also ditched the beige theme and went with a black cobra-grain vinyl roof, Brewster green (a GM truck color from the 40s) for the body and contrasting mahogany insert panels for the doors. I also added whitewalls which were probably never found on work vehicles very frequently, unless they were a shuttle service for a fancy resort.

Andy, I understand, they are their cars and I don't fret about it. For me, the old vehicles are pieces of movable history and I thoroughly enjoy the conversations that start as a result. Maybe my age, born in 1938, is part of my attraction. All have been pleasantly surprised to see the flathead six and never ask why not a V8. The same has been about the exterior, haven't had one person suggest I paint the truck. Now, back to Art Deco.

Its really fun for me how much attention my car really attracts. Of course people wave at me because they see an old car coming toward them on the highway. But the people who talk to me at gas stations, etc. can tell that the car is basically untouched, and when you see that you expect a story of some sort. There's something intriguing about a car with the original paint and interior. I guess I can't say my car is totally untouched with its rebuilt engine and modern radials on it, but it still is largely original. For those of you who haven't seen some of my other posts, the car was purchased by Winona, MN native Ray Sebo (deceased 1996) new at Chrysler Seifert Baldwin Motors in Winona, MN. Mr. Sebo was a professor at Winona State University; remnants of his staff parking sticker are still in the passenger side rear window of the car. Mr. Sebo's initials are stamped on the back of the original Dodge emblem that came with the original keys, and his address is scribed on the back of one of those keys. I don't know when he sold the car, but I'm the 4th owner, and it largely sat from 1973 until 2016 with less than 1,000 miles put on it, which didn't do it any good mechanically. But as you know I've been fixing things as I go including brakes, engine rebuild, clutch, etc. One thing I wanted to do here in the coming weeks is track down some of Mr. Sebo's relatives (there's plenty of Sebos in the Winona area) and see if any of them remember the car or even have old pictures or documents on it. I think I may have found one of Mr. Sebos sons whom is in his 70s now. I just need to make that phone call. Maybe they would be happy to see the car is still going and would be willing to let me scan some pictures if they had any from BITD. I'll keep you guys updated on that.

I had originally planned on going to Mopars in the Park this Saturday but I've decided to cancel. My exhaust is cobbled together and not sturdy at all, and with just 350 miles on the car after the rebuild I don't feel confident making the 2.5 hour one way trip to Farmington. Still working out a few bugs. We're going to stay closer to home for a while yet. Still thinking about Back to the 50s later this month. We shall see. I'd love to meet up with you and check out your car and tell you all about mine. Maybe we can make this happen at some point, that's what its all about Next Tuesday I have an exhaust appointment; pretty excited about that.

I hadn't heard of it either, but I watch a lot of "Jay Leno's Garage" on YouTube and discovered it there. He's been using it for 15+ years, so its been around for a while. The company still hasn't been able to get car manufacturers to use this coolant on cars straight from the factory. Could be the price. Its $45 a gallon. But ask yourself this: at $7-$10 a gallon for regular 50/50 premix antifreeze are you really saving any money if you flush your system out every couple of years like you're supposed to? And if you DON'T flush your system what does your radiator look like inside after 5 years or more? The same corrosion is happening inside your engine block as well. This Evans coolant has NO water, so it won't cause any corrosion and you never have to change it. Need to change a faulty thermostat at some point? Drain the coolant into a clean pan, change your thermostat and then dump the coolant right back in. Guaranteed for the life of the engine. If you have an engine that is not rebuilt (and isn't totally clean is what I'm getting at) you have to use their flushing solution before you add their coolant. They only guarantee it if your old antifreeze is less than 3% mixed with their coolant. Like I said, so far so good with this coolant. We plan on driving the car everywhere we go this summer. I'm expecting to put 5,000 miles on it. I'll keep everyone updated....

I love most of the art deco styling. Here are two shots of my 38 Ford "Standard" tudor sedan. This car is absolutely dead stock and original in every respect other than the primer paint. That's right. It's not lowered and those are the stock 16 inch wheels and hubcaps on it. I posted it before,but the photos never showed up or they were deleted. I'll try again.

Let me know if any of those shows bring you closer to the twin cities! Be fun to meet up. I just got my 48 out of storage. About a month later than normal this year....

Finally got out of the house today. It's been 2 weeks today since I got out of the hospital. Started speech and physical therapy today. Will be going 3 days a week. When I met with the speech therapist, She said she didn't see a need for me to continue seeing her. In her opinion, everything looks good. So now all I've got is physical therapy. Don't know for how long. Said they will do an evaluation after 10 weeks to see if I need more. Been having a lot of lower back pain when I was using my cane to get around inside the house. Today I used a walker and didn't seen to have as much pain. I have a doctor's appointment tomorrow morning. will see how I do with the walker. If I'm feeling pretty good, and the weather is nice, Might try to start the Plymouth. Know I won't be able to drive it, but at least get it started.

Best mug ever! Thank you Bob. I hope that you and Cooper and the family are doing well. Dave Boston

Got to love the creativity in this. It comes as a kit!

Pull off the dist. cap and see if you can twist the rotor. You should be able to twist it slightly one direction, but it should spring back. If you try to twist the other direction it should be solid. If you can twist it back and forth several degrees without much resistance that would indicate a faulty advance mechanism.

Spent nearly the entire weekend working on the car, new brake cylinders on all four corners. Right rear gave me some heartache, kept blowing by the piston gasket, so I pulled another from my stock and that did the trick. Also emptied the gas tank and started cleaning it in place by recycling 5 gallons of gas through the sending unit port and out the bottom drain into a pan. Have since decided the tank needs to come down and be cleaned out. Too much crap in there for my liking. The crap that came out was just gross, stuck to the bottom of the pan I was using to collect it and hardened to a varnish in the sunshine (what little we had on Saturday.) Valves are still sticking... Went to start her today after I got her sneakers back on and all I her was a starter whirring and a lots of back fire through the carb. So I played whack a mole again on #2 and #4 and got them freed up again and she started with some gas dumped in the carb. Friday night was a late night in the garage, stayed up there until 12a, went home and hit the sack only to be woken at 3:30 by my wife telling me that my grandson had been born! Daughter and baby boy Jace are doing terrific. I am in head over heals in love with the little guy, and can't wait to take him for a ride in the convertible.

Chrysler and DeSoto shop manual say if the solenoid stops working go to your local DeSoto/Plymouth dealer and buy a new one. And tell 'em Groucho sent you!

I learned how to delete attachments, may have deleted these also. So post #1 has the photos. And for late comers, here

Here is an interesting and probably useful bit of info from one eBay seller..........just putting it out here as it relates to the water tubes. I think I bought an aluminum water tube at Carlisle a couple years ago to have on hand for a future rebuild.......guess it would be OK to use. Visit our eBay Store: TemeculaValleyMoPar Recondition your 1937-54 DeSoto and Chrysler flathead-six cooling system with this set consisting of a new water-distribution tube and new water jacket core plugs. Since the water pump must be removed to replace the distribution tube, we've also include a new gasket. A rusted-out distribution tube is a major cause of overheating and rusted-out core plugs are a major cause of leaks Chrysler Corp's L-head engines incorporated formed sheetmetal tubes to direct coolant from the output of the waterpump to each cylinder. These "water distribution tubes" were originally made of galvanized steel and of course rust-out over time which leads to engine overheating. We offer a distribution tube kit on which also includes new core (freeze) plugs. Frequently we are asked if we can supply the replacement tube and core plugs in brass. The answer is NO. Because the engine block is made of a ferrous metal (iron), everything in contact with the iron block and the coolant water should also be made of an iron-based metal. If you remember your high school chemistry class, you learned that if you immerse two dis-similar metals (iron and brass) in an electrolyte (the coolant water), you will have created a galvanic battery cell that will rapidly erode the least "noble" metal part (your engine bock). You don't want that! Making sure that any metal parts used in the cooling passages are made of a ferrous (iron-based) metal will keep the erosion to a minimum. Because of this, you probably won't find a brass water distribution tube but there are mechanics that will try to install brass core plugs into your engine's water jacket. Don't let them!

make small adjustments you can do it. just be patient. I had to make a small adjustment on my 41 & now it works great.

Thought for a few seconds the marker said John Wesley Harden.. LOL That would be a REAL find...Be nice to have a section here where members could post local junkyard photos of cars and their locations.

No "C" clip is used as on late model cars. Use the proper hub puller to remove the drum Remove the brake backing plate. Then use a puller to remove the axle shaft. It is held in the housing by the cup piece of a typical cone and roller Timken bearing-so you need to over come the friction fit of the bearing cup that is usually semi tight in the axle housing -preventing the cone part of the bearing that is on the axle shaft from sliding right out of the axle housing. To remove shaft and bearing it self use a slide hammer W/a hook or a old axle nut welded adapter to fit the slide hammer and threads on axle shaft/a long large chain-whip the chain to remove the shaft kinda dangerous. Sometimes the shafts pull right out! Don't loose/mix up the shims for axle end play. Some pics of removal and what the situation looks like. I have and use the factory Miller tool to remove them. Bob