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Posts
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Bob Riding last won the day on December 27 2025
Bob Riding had the most liked content!
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444 ExcellentProfile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Sanger, CA
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Interests
Vintage cars, fishing, camping, history, genealogy, film, travel, winemaking (and tasting)
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My Project Cars
1940 Plymouth Suburban
1952 Plymouth Suburban
1951 Plymouth Suburban (parts)
Contact Methods
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Biography
Grandfather, married 46 years (to the same woman), have 2 grown boys, and 3 grandkids.
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Occupation
Retired from a major electric and gas utility company
Converted
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Location
Central California
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Interests
Old cars-have 6 Mopars (2 Dodge B1Bs), 5 Plymouths from '40-'51
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Bob Riding started following Body mount bushings , Looking for a solid project , The worst topic, Insurance.... and 5 others
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Marcel, Sounds like a fun project! BTW, your picture doesn't appear.
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I'm using Hagerty and have agreed value, no deductible and very reasonable rates. I don't think there is a mileage limit, but mine is not a daily driver either.
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I went for a similar setup a couple of years ago with a Chrysler 360 'in my '51 Suburban. Here's an old thread that might give some more detail Motor mounts kit; Butchs cool stuff I decided against the V8 and went back to a 230 flathead. I know I sold the mounts with the 360, but I may have a transmission support and rack and pinion setup somewhere.
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Welcome Lachlan! I believe our Forum to have the most knowledgeable and willing vintage Mopar experts for folks like you and me to get the info and support we need to keep these old beasts on the road. One of my go-to guys is fellow Forum member @keithb7 who also has a '38 Chrysler and also a great Youtube channel Keith's Garage Check it out and have fun!
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From my research... Autolite family changes 1940s-1950s IGS series (common through the 1940s) Earlier Autolite family used on many Mopars; parts (cap/points/rotor) are different than later IAT units. People swapping across years often get tripped up because tune-up parts don’t interchange. IAP / IAO transitional (late ’40s–~1950 in some applications) Shows up in interchange discussions as a mid-step between the older IGS setups and the later “mainstream” IAT era. IAT series (introduced around 1950; dominant early–mid ’50s) Commonly referenced as the “late 1950 onward” Autolite family; lots of support in the hobby world and generally easier sourcing for service parts compared to some earlier variants.
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Another option is to have your distributor (or a cheap core) rebuilt. I had Ray Brenner - Halifaxhops@hotmail.com - 717-827-4005 rebuild mine to function better on a later model flathead (mine's a P28). He was able to add a few more degrees of vac and mechanical advance and install lighter springs. Runs like a champ.
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yes, snug but not unworkable.
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Here is the heater I used in my P10 wagon. It is Chrysler “Comfort Master” Model 53 hot-water heater, and it’s exactly the right type for a 1940 Plymouth. The stand alone types shown in @desoto1939's brochures worked very well and were usally controlled at or on the heater box itself. Details from my noteson the Model 53: Factory-accessory hot water heater made by Chrysler Corporation Branded COMFORT MASTER These could be dealer-installed accessories, not always factory-installed at the assembly plant This is not an aftermarket brand (like Tri-Airstream, Arvin, or Tropic-Aire). It’s genuine Chrysler hardware. Correct era & application Used on late 1930s through early 1950s Chrysler products Commonly found in: Plymouth Dodge DeSoto Chrysler Absolutely correct for a 1940 Plymouth (including Special Deluxe models) In 1940, heaters were optional equipment, and this exact style was one of the approved units. How it works: Uses engine coolant (hot water) Coolant circulates through the heater core A single-speed electric blower motor forces air through the core Heat output is controlled by: A manual coolant shutoff valve (under hood) Fan on/off switch (usually dash-mounted) No thermostats, no blend doors — simple and very reliable Mounting location (1940 Plymouth) Mounts under the dash, passenger side Defroster hose routes up to windshield outlets Uses firewall-mounted heater hose connections No cutting required on cars originally equipped for heaters Electrical details Originally 6-volt Positive ground (as Plymouth was in 1940) Can be: Rebuilt to stay 6V Run briefly on 12V with a resistor (not ideal long-term) Rewound or converted internally for 12V if needed I don't recall what I paid for it but from what I'm reading, they are hard to find in NOS condition. Typical values in 2025: As-is, complete: $250–$400 Professionally restored & working: $500–$800 NOS or fully rebuilt with correct switches/valves: $1,000+ For someone restoring a 1940 Plymouth, this would be a very desirable piece.
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I know what you are talking about. I've never seen them in the flesh, only pictures. The top of the headlight is missing compared to the stock units. Strange.
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My headlight surrounds seem to be stamped pot metal. Same for my '40 Dodge Business Coupe. Interesting the parts interchange between Plymouth and Dodoge in Oz and Canada.
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Thanks Andy. The U.S. Hame Co. was in business starting in 1902. They made horse collars, saddles, hames, & other carriage hardware. The business ended in 1917 when the name was changed to USHCO Mfg. Co. & they began making wooden chassis for vehicles, under the US Body and Forging Company name. They provided bodies for Plymouth, Dodge and some other makes like Willys.
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Thanks- it only took 12 years, but kept my mind and body active! What show were we at together?
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The Plymouth Owner's Club (POC) monthly magazine ran an article last month on Plymouth woodies (all made in Indiana) and USHCO, the wooden body builder. When I found my '40 wagon in 2003 it was pretty far gone, but the USHCO brass plate was still nailed to the liftgate. I wrote POC and described my find and wondered if any other Plymouth woodie owners had similar plates and they ran it with my picture. My 15 minutes of fame!
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