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The spring gets hot... counter weight stays up... Till you rev the engine ...then the exhaust flow pressure will flip it over....the counter weight hangs and stays down till the spring cools.... This if it all is clocked/ installed correctly

Make it a accurate slight friction fit....makes em come out quicker easier and try not to trap air in the grease or yea... try bread. Maybe corn bread?

even regular TVs did not explode.....they did implode...…….quick ping on the internet will get yu the operation principle and build characteristics....

I asked Dad why the rear fenders were so tore up on the '48 while the rest of the truck was fairly straight... He said that kind of damage always seemed to occur in the mud in the winter and early spring, sliding around trying to get in and out of cattle pasture gateways and either bouncing off of or hanging a fence post...I have a similar fender dent that can be figured by the truck sliding in the mud, with the rear yawing so that the tail light hooked a cedar post that tilted forward, slamming into the upper radius of the fender...the custom rear bumper was added years later

The reason I asked is my thought was to move or add to the position stop, to move the lower seat forward to give you more support.

I wanted to document what I learned, and post a video for others to learn from on You Tube. This video was done from memory, based on what I learned here from @Dodgeb4ya and from reading through my shop manuals. I learned a lot here about these M6 transmissions. I realize there are other good learning sources courtesy of the Mopar Master Mechanic series. They are great. This was my way of explaining the workings of the tranny in simple stripped down terms. Maybe not 100% accurate in my word choices, as it was on the fly. No script, no editing. You Tube seems to be the Go-To place these days for most young people looking to learn about new things. So I thought it best to share my learnings there. Hopefully a future generation of Mopar finds something useful in my video. Thanks again Dodgeb4ya. Your help is much appreciated. I am not done yet with this tranny. I still want to get the countershaft out. However other projects have taken priority. I will get back to this tranny at a later date. Cheers, Keith https://youtu.be/DtqjLNEOpqc

Bill I just replaced my old oil screen filter in my 39 desoto with a paper element and the car did not have any issue. and mine is partially covers by the face of the metal air cleaner. Since you had a full opening for the air to enter the carb I do not understand why it was running rough? and then when you put the original back on it smoothed out seems as if it was getting too much air not sure but very interesting. Look like you will have a nice car when it is painted. Are you a member of the National Desoto club? This years Desoto convention is going to be held in Kansas so we all have to follow the YELLOW BRICK road to get to the convention. rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I have seen no proof that either were anything other than programmed robots.

Glad you're having fun Frank ? Looks good on there!

This is going to be a great thread. Lots of pix already, and you haven't even begun. Like I said before, since this truck is so original, mostly, it'll be fun comparing yours to ours, as you go along. I, for one, am going to learn lots from your thread. Thanks for all the pictures. ?

Having a little fun......

Check out my new screensaver.

Yeah, those low mounted tail lights are a concern to me too. Fortunately for me, the previous owner had one of those clip on brake lite bars that can be mounted in the rear window; unfortunately, it wouldn't stay on as the suction cups wouldn't hold suction. So, I super glued it in place. Its not going anywhere, and works fine. I'll let the next owner decide how to get it off, if it bothers him (since I'll be gone from this world, as that's the only way this truck will be outta my life, it won't be for, hopefully, many many years).? I also added another (low) brake lite on the passenger side, so, now I've got two low ones, one on each side, and the lite bar in the rear window, so, I'm pretty well lit!?

I've seen Don's deleted punch line in another setting that did not have a politlcal image attached. Something like: "Nothing's made in America any more. I bought a new TV, and it said, 'Built in Antenna'. I don't even know where Antenna is." Such humor should be preserved.

i do not, but all modern tvs....LED or LCDS have liquid compressed between 2 sheets of material ? and they recommend not below 50 f or above 104 f. https://www.samsung.com/us/support/answer/ANS00041636/

Most of our local service drops into houses etc here are still aluminum. MOST houses dont have that for general service of outlets and switchs. That is all copper. All the oldest houses in town were knob and tube here. Wire was way thinner than 14ga. but did have some light insulation on it that is now brittle at best. UPDATE---outlet is now a pretty new one that is higher rated. LOOKS like the hot side of the outlet was arcing to the metal box for what ever reason. Seems winter heating , dry air in the house made it worse. I recall last winter it did it too. Outlet is on same wall inches from huge outlet of furnace hot air. In old days that was only an old octopus coal, gravity only NO FAN. It worked till it didnt and now replaced with HE gas furnace with PVC vent only. When replacing it did turn receptacle over so black wire was on other side. This is the ONLY metal box left in the house. Drywall was placed OVER old plaster and lath so any old work box wont work as the screws arent long enough. Old boxes werent next to a stud, just screwed to the lathes. So problem all gone. Why it only showed up while plugging into it I cant say. Guess when I have time might run a new run of 12 gauge over there with all three wires and ground all the same size. This one has the small ground wire yet. The MAIN thing this run services is the 55" TV , Dish box and DVR. Was going to take it thru that outside wall and put a GFI receptacle outside on the porch in case want to plug tools or Christmas lights outside. Dont forget to check your boxes for the Federal Pacific ones that started fires left and right and didnt pop breakers as needed. Thats why mine is replaced!!

Jan. 11: Used the '18 Ram EcoDiesel to haul my '48 to a friend's shop. He owns many buildings, and the one I'm hauling it to is an old gas station. Has a hoist in one stall. He gave me a key, which I didn't expect. I will probably work on the truck there until summer, then bring it home. It's 5 miles from my house. This building is where I departed from. This is where we got the '48 running. EcoDiesel pulled with ease. Getting up to speed it shifted at 3k rpm, and once at 55mph it stayed between 1500 and 1800 rpm. Up slight hills it would downshift a gear up to 2k rpm. Averaged about 18mpg towing. ?

Jan. 11: Used the '18 Ram EcoDiesel to haul my '48 to a friend's shop. It has a hoist in one stall. He gave me a key, which I didn't expect. I will probably work on the truck there until summer, then bring it home. It's 5 miles from my house. These pics are of the place I departed from. Amish Market in St. Charles, MN. Another friend owns that place. He let me keep truck and trailer inside all week. EcoDiesel pulled with ease. Getting up to speed it shifted at 3k rpm, and once at 55mph it stayed between 1500 and 1800 rpm. Up slight hills it would downshift a gear up to 2k rpm. Averaged about 18mpg towing. ?

Great looking truck and excellent find. I wish mine looked so good 40 years ago when I bought it. dodge.bmp

Not all the time (reference Don's "Built in Antenna" post)

The briefly posted "American Gothic" painting had too close a resemblance to persons living. It seems this thread is skirting the limits, keeping the moderators on their toes.

Well...there you go... I wasn't aware anyone offered them. Thanks Brent.

I never even think about the miles, runs well, keep an eye on oil, water temp and bring tools. Enjoy the view as we sit up higher in our pilothouses.

Well, I can officially consider myself addicted. I purchased a '52 Suburban (in process of a full restoration) back in July, and tomorrow will be heading up north to look at this. From what I gather from the seller, it is a 1951 (he listed it as a '53) Cranbrook Club Coupe. It's pretty straight and it runs and drive, though the owner says it smokes a little. He referred to it as a semi-automatic, but I know that the Hy-Drive wasn't introduced until '53 so I know it's not that. I'm hoping it was one of the post-'52 OD conversions that were offered at that time. Initially, I wanted to purchase this as a parts car, but it is too complete AND has a clear title, so I will keep this from the scrapyard as well. I will post more once I have it home and can give it a once over. It's from northern New Mexico, so it should be mostly rust-free. I guess I am now in the Two-Plymouth Owner's Club. LOL On a side note, I might try to pick up the sedan in the rear for a parts car if the price is right. -Austin

I had that brochure scanned and tried to get it posted in the downloads section awhile back, but a comedy of errors exacerbated by photobucket zapping it from my account kinda told me that it wasn't meant to be...I may try again later, but that all depends on if PB will play ball... As for windshield wiper parking, the B-1 and B-2 parked wipers outboard...I can tell you that swapping from vacuum to electric wipers requires not only changing the motor but the linkages and pivots as the geometries are different

It's possible to convert factory radio to play music from any source (supplied by mini - jack), using only original, electron valve electronics. If You have working radio (in most cases, the only repair needed is putting new capacitors in it), the only thing to do is connecting the wire to amplifier section of radio and disconnecting the antenna. I've done it with mine, of P-15 - although it's not mounted in car yet(it's looong way to make it "car" again), the table - tests gave splendid results video-1547058615.mp4

I put around 1800 miles on mine in one week this past fall. I drove it from Wisconsin to Tennessee for a WPC Annual Meet. It was about 800 miles one way. We broke the trip up into a couple of days each way to minimize the stress on us, and the truck. I traveled mostly on the Interstate highways at around 70 MPH. I also have 3.73 gears.

Good call Ram Man 02.....go with what keeps you in the game AND safe. Sounds like your ride is getting a cool make over......you really should get a thread going before its done. Dodgefran: How bout some pictures??? How far down is your frame? What builds are you comparing it to? What is the intended use? I'd really suggest that you find a build you like and try to "copy" it so as not to get to caught up in reinventing the wheel. Its just my opinion of course, but it can save lot of heartache and keep your ride from spending to many years under the tarp. 48D

This is awesome. Where did you get the rack and pinion from. Nice work.

The pinched tube towards the firewall on the intake manifold is the port for the vacuum wiper motor, where a rubber hose would go up thru the firewall to the wiper motor. As for your horn button, the 3-eared brass plate locks into the collar, with a compression spring on the steering wheel that keeps that plate in place; the wire and Bakelite feed thru the hole in the brass, not under it

item left, jury rigged knob for loosening the air cleaner from the carb mouth... far right, Sissions Choke center looks to be a mod to the base for a vacuum source

I believe the picture you responded to has been removed.

I guess my attempt to respond to a picture post somehow ended up on the wrong place!? DJ