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Jakub

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Jakub last won the day on May 18 2017

Jakub had the most liked content!

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About Jakub

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 07/30/1997

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Siemiatycze, Poland
  • Interests
    Classic cars, photography
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Plymouth Convertible, 1966 Gaz M-21 Volga, 1971 Mercury Cougar Convertible, 1936 Packard 120 Touring Sedan, 1956 Continental Mark II, and two bikes: BMW R-35 and M-72

Converted

  • Location
    Siemiatycze, Poland
  • Interests
    Photography, Classic motoring

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  • Occupation
    Medicine student

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  1. Probably You need to clean and lubricate speedometer cable. Remove it from car, disassemble, clean with kerosene, lubricate generously with motor oil, assemble, mount back in the car, avoiding sharp bends. I'm sure that it would help.
  2. For front end of leaf springs, "Volga" blocks can be used. 4 are needed because one eye uses two half - bushings. They are full rubber, unlike original ones, which were steel/rubber. Rear requires much thinner ones; I bought mine in "Rockauto" for 2 $ per two and around 10$ for postage. Also two per side required (two in box). (edited, I've posted something stupid first time)
  3. In Europe it would be easier to obtain GAZ - 21, Gaz - 69, Żuk or UAZ silent blocks, also used in many trailers. Inside and outside diameters are the same as P-15; they are about 1 cm longer, but can be shortened with hacksaw. They are very cheap - about 1 € per one or even less, 4 required per car. http://sovietcarparts.com/shop/gaz-21/undercarriage/tagumise-lehtvedru-puks-uus/?lang=en https://allegro.pl/oferta/tuleja-resora-zuk-35mm-8416958402
  4. I've cleaned it with wet cloth - it's black, not green at all. (It may seem green on photograph, as white balance of camera in cell phone is not the best). Well, I know that the car is 70 years old, had many previous owners and was repainted 3 times (I've removed some paint using sandpaper on the doors, wings and body - car was originally black, then repainted violet, then repainted red, and then again black) but there's nothing underneeth the black paint in boot or on the floor - just bare steel. And it's not likely that it was ever sandlasted (metal lacks the typical, sandlasting structure & car was never restored, just repainted). Also, I'm almost sure that I've never seen any gray - painted element during disassembly. Next week I'll check another parts of body - like inside of cowl, under cardboard sound deadning, boot lid hinges etc. I'll try to polish them, to remove oxidation from the paint.
  5. Hello; I'm slowly moving forward with restoration of my 48 P-15 Convertible. I've just removed body from frame and put in on it''s side for some metal job. Just after that, I've noticed that areas that were protected against water, dust and other environmental factors, causing paint deterioration & rust are.. black. Techncal reference states that they should be gray, while in my car they are clearly black. Same story with inside of the boot, inside the body and remains of floor. I don't think that the whole body was pulled of the frame and repainted black. I've scratched the paint to uncover what's underneeth it - there is only steel. Car is late 48 - it lacks the cross bar connecting the hinges under the bonnet. Car orignally was probably black. Was there a change during production run? Shortage of gray paint, substituted with black? Maybe someone has another example of car with black underbody? And, what colour should I paint it after sandblasting to be historically accurate? 🤔
  6. Thank You, it's a BIG help! I'll try to re - arch the springs locally - I've found a truck repair company, already talked with them; I'm not sure about tempering, but still - better than nothing at all. I've also talked with Eaton about price of new leaf springs - probably I'll have to buy new ones in future, if the old ones go down too much, but at first I'll try to finish the restoration & drive a little. (Already re - arched springs in my Volga - one side was lower than another; they went down a little after ~~ 5 000 km, but car is still horizontal and much higher than before re - arching). One more thing: What would You recommend for lubrication of leaf springs? Graphite grease? Copper or plastic insulators?
  7. Thank You, I've just send an e-mail to them asking about proper arch height. Maybe they would help.
  8. Hello; I've just removed body and now will be working on mechanics. Already removed rear end, and the leaf springs seems to be a little flat - car was probably lowered by one of previous owners, or the leafs are simply worn. For sure - they need re-arching. But, I don't know how much should they be re-arched, and, I suppose, truck shop would also don't have any reference for a 70 years old car from another part of globe. So, what should be free lenght (direct, flat measurment from one eye to another) & arch height? Maybe someone has a good source of such information - I looked in service manual, but there are no dimensions. I would be very grateful if someone could measure it. Car is 1948 P15 Convertible, but I suppose that dimensions should be the same for all models, only varying number of leafs. Also - any source for leaf spring covers? In my car I have them only on right spring, while left is naked.
  9. Hello; As restoration of my P15 convertible is now going slowly, but steadily, I have some questions of "how should it be" kind. First of all, the rocker panel line. Should door to rocker panel gap line continue into rear panel (1)(I don't know what's proper name of it; place where 4 - door would have it's rear door...) or should it blend with it?(2) Second - rocker panel moulding. I suppose that there are some retainers or clips; I even found some on E-bay, but I don't know how the moulding should fit. It seems to be wider than the most outward part of rocker; should it be mounted aslant(B), to touch the lower part of rocker panel or make some kind of overhang(A)? And, last but not least - interior of rear fender. How much frame should be covered by inner fender? What's the proper shape of it? How deeply should it go? I'd be very grateful if someone could photograph those elements.
  10. Some time ago I posted a topic about soviet copy of Flathead six, which then turned to OHV 4 etc. In one of improvements, it was equipped with enclosed crankcase, without PCV. The oil filling tube was simply elongated, and then, via rubber hose, connected to air filter, to the "filtered" side. The breather was also connected to air filter, but to "non - filtered" side. It's probably the simplest way of removing fumes from underneeth the car. Noone ever complained about it; I've never heard of problems with sucking oil out of engine or backfire problems, even though many of these cars ran on very low quality LPG instalations. And that's how it looked like:
  11. Maybe try shipping it for re - chroming to a "cheaper" country? I don't know what are the prices of chrome restoration in US, but in Poland, in the best-in-country chrome shop I paid eq of ~~ 400$ for Packard hood ornament. So, maybe try looking for chrome shop in Mexico, or even ship it to Europe? That's the website of company mentioned above: http://www.tecechromowanie.pl/7/home
  12. It's possible to convert factory radio to play music from any source (supplied by mini - jack), using only original, electron valve electronics. If You have working radio (in most cases, the only repair needed is putting new capacitors in it), the only thing to do is connecting the wire to amplifier section of radio and disconnecting the antenna. I've done it with mine, of P-15 - although it's not mounted in car yet(it's looong way to make it "car" again), the table - tests gave splendid results video-1547058615.mp4
  13. Jakub

    White top

    You can also make the cut line on the top of "A" pillar. Just like on that car: or a little lower, in the narrowest point of pillar.
  14. It answers. But still, IMO, I'd rather spend one weekend in garage, than buy a one-month-salary tool. I mentioned that, because it seems to me that common opinion about those brakes is "It's impossible to adjust properly without tool". It's possible, but time consuming. That's all.
  15. Yes, once. It took me two days. After that friend of mine told me about that guy.
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