Help Selecting Fuel Pump

[Hibish]

I have a 1948 Dodge Custom with Fluid Drive.  The fuel pump stopped working recently.  I ordered a new one from Andy Bermbaum (https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts/p_fuel/fuel-pump-2/) based on the my car year, make, and model.  Stupidly I ordered it before I took the old one out.  The one I ordered has a straight pump arm and the one I pulled out has a an angled pump arm.  So I am wondering if the one I ordered will work and if not which should I be ordering?  I don't want to put this one just to pull it out again or worse break something.

 

The engine in in the car has, so far as I can tell, the following numbers stamped on it:  D34-25148I (on the front driver's side of the engine block) and 1311804-4 (on the top of the engine block towards the back ).  I believe the engine is from a 1950 Dodge Coronet, Meadowbrook, or Wayfarer.

 

This one (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m2090/make/dodge) looks very much like the old one I pulled out.  I found it by searching by Engine Types and selecting Mopar Inline 6 size 230.  If I search by Car (1948 Dodge Custom or 1950 Dodge Coronet, Meadowbrook, or Wayfarer) it says it won't match and points me to another pump that looks exactly like what I ordered initially - with the straight arm.  The only Dodge vehicle it says it fits is a Dodge B1 truck.

 

Any help is much appreciated.

[53windsor]

My understanding is that the arm shape isn't critical as long as it meets the fuel pump eccentric properly. 

Somebody check my math.

[Booger]

you might be correct in your assesement 53 but if it doesnt match precisely ....is why I went to electric fuel pump to help along tired mechanical pump

[Dan Hiebert]

You should order by the engine, not the car.  As you noted, you do not have the original engine in your D24.  Someone else will have to chime in on what your engine came out of based on those numbers, and then you can order what you need.  The pump arms should indeed match, there are internal differences in these engines ("improvements") that call for different configurations.  The cam that runs the fuel pump only moves that arm a relatively small amount, and while a cam arm that is only slightly off may work, the difference between the two you show will not work.  AB has always been good to me with returns, and there's a good chance they'll have the right fuel pump for your engine. 

[andyd]

The fuel pump cam is just that a lobe on the camshaft whether its a machined part of the billet or a bolt on piece its is just the same as any cam that revolves with the camshaft........therefore so long as the fuel pump arm touches this cam whether underneath, on top, at the side the "shape" of the fuel pump arm is really immaterial...........the fuel pump cam lobe will push against the arm and dah, dah..........pump fuel........my oz 2 cents worth.......andyd

[Loren]

Two items worth a question. 1) Does your car have vacuum Wipers? If so get the dual chamber fuel pump and you'll thank me for asking the next time you use the wipers. 2) Does your car have the heat shield over the fuel pump? If so good. You'll find a hole for the stand off in it and the stand off should be on your new fuel pump. If not find one. You'll thank me when your car starts every time when hot.

[Doug&Deb]

You would be better off rebuilding your original pump than replacing it. The pins on the new pumps have a tendency to walk out. I’m currently running one from Andy Bernbaums and it has epoxy on both ends of the pin. 

[Sniper]

This is where an interchange manual would come in handy and it would tell you if the pumps will work.

[Young Ed]

1 hour ago, Sniper said:

This is where an interchange manual would come in handy and it would tell you if the pumps will work.

Ooh I just got one of those! I'll try to look this up later. But I believe they all work even with the different arm styles 

[Doug&Deb]

Your original pump looks like a truck application. Check Bernbaums and Roberts for a truck pump. Also there’s a flathead group on Facebook. The admin can tell you what engine you have based on the numbers.

[greg g]

Before you install it, on any brand by any supplier, check the lever pivot pin.  If it just pushed in it needs to, be staked, clamped, or glued in.  Their "interference" fit isn't sufficient to keep the pin in place. Best practice would be to replace the pin with a clevis pin that can be pined or clipped in place.

 

Picture for discussion purposes only.  This is not meant to fit your specific situation.

 

Edited June 18 by greg g

[keithb7]

After my pump pin walked out, a nice lite 2-3 day dosing of JB Weld on the new pump fulcrum pin ends worked wonders. 5 years and counting for me. No problems. 
 

In my experience either the straight or the bent arm fuel pump will work if you have the mounting space. 

[Doug&Deb]

To the original question. The engine in my 52 Coronet came out of a 58 D100 truck. It didn’t have a fuel pump and I ordered the same one you got from Bernbaums. It’s worked fine so I don’t believe it matters which one you use. I’m not sure why the truck used a different design.

[Hibish]

Thanks all for the replies.  I went ahead and purchased the Summit Racing one I linked to in my original post.  Comparing to the one I took out they look exactly same.  The pin had some glue on the ends so it seems like they were aware of the walking out issues.  I popped it in and the car started right up.  It ran great for 1 week.  Just today I am back to the original problem only this time even dumping gas down the carb for priming is not getting the car started.

 

I'll pull it out and check for any obvious problems.  Folks are telling me I may have a carb problem but I barely get any fuel in the filter between the pump and the carb and that makes me think it is likely the pump.  Maybe I got a bad one.  I have not returned the one from AB yet  - with the straight arm - so maybe I will put it in and see.

 

In my parts manual for the D24 both style fuel pumps are shown.  The straight arm is shown on one page and another page the bent arm is shown with the initial RHD.  My friend Rich Hartung (active here) tells me they make different style pumps for left hand drive vs right hand drive due to space constraints.  This likely infers either would work depending on the room in the engine bay - as @keithb7 mentioned as well.

 

@Booger I am trying to stay as original as possible, but reliability is still more important as I like to drive the car so if this keep sup long enough I'll go electric.

@Loren 1) My wipers are electric.  2) I am indeed missing the heat shield you mentioned.  I will order it as well since I am already working in that area.

@Doug&Deb I intend to rebuild the original.  Every reference I can find for that angled arm pump say it fits a Dodge B1 pickup truck so I think you might be right.  Off to find that Flathead FB group.  Thanks.

[andyd]

Hibish..........AFAIK it makes no difference whether the car is RHD or LHD.........I had a factory RHD 1941 Plymouth and the pump looked the same style as that used on pictures I've seen on here of LHD pumps........also the 41 Plymouth whilst being RHD , the steering box which is the problem child in this conversation sits between the fuel and oil pumps and lives quite happily there........so long as the fuel pump you have has the correct placement of the mounting boss and the two bolt holes are in the correct position and the pivot pin is in place then the pump should pump...........I think you have carby or ignition issues............if you hold both pumps beside each other you can compare the angle of the arm in relation to the mounting boss and whether one contacts the cam under or over the actual cam is immaterial....the cam just pushes the arm, the arm pivots and the diaphram sucks & blows fuel.......BTW are you in Oztralia?.....attached pic shows the fuel pump that I was going to use on the hotrodded 230 I was buildingj..andyd   

[Hibish]

@andyd I am in USA near Philadelphia.  Thanks for the info.

[desoto1939]

Dave - Rich Hartung adding some info from my Airtex catalog for you.

 

 

 

 

 

Here is info on Autolite fuel pumps: look a the model FA- 40035 same arm as on the 588 model that Andy B sent you.

 

 

 

Edited July 1 by desoto1939

[Hibish]

Sorry for the delayed update, but after the last trouble I towed the car home and with the heat and rain I did not get to check into until now.  The new fuel pump I bought from Summit Racing indeed broke 9 days after installing it and driving the car 4 times in that span.  It was not the usual pin falling out problem.  The arm itself broke inside the pump housing.  I took the flange off the new one and put it on my old one and manual testing showed it working.  I installed it back on the car and still no fuel to the carb.  I ran the inlet side into a full gas can and left the outlet hooked up to the carb.  The car started right away.  I guess I have a fuel line problem to resolve now.  A hole or a blockage.

[andyd]

Yep, sounds like the issue is in the fuel line.......there should be a small length of hose between the fuel line on the frame and fuel pump, check that it hasn't collapsed inside...then check the fuel line at the tank, if its the original setup then when you undo the line at the tank there should be a small ferrule on the metal line that may or may not be firmly around the tubing.......if lost it can be a PITA to find & replace.....lol.......from memory I vaguely recall that the metal fuel line has a metal joiner around the firewall.........if there is one there, maybe try & undo that & blow air thru there also.........hope you get it sorted.........andyd    

[Hibish]

Finally got around to looking at the fuel line.  All of the rubber seemed dated and some cracking so I replaced all of the rubber parts of the lines.  I ran a vacuum test and it seemed OK so I hooked everything back up and tried to start it.  It started!  I drove it for about a 3 mile test drive and all seemed sorted.  Hopefully the problem is finally fixed.  Thanks all for the helpful tips on this thread.