andyd

Tallman...welcome aboard but I think you'll not have much luck.....I doubt that replacement panels are available in the USA but could be wrong.......I've had my Oz 1940 Dodge since 1973 and have never seen nor heard of any replacement panels for Oz Mopars......how bad are your cars panels?..........are they not repairable?..........got any pics.......might be worth checking on the Pilothouse side of the forum also..........andyd

Exactly what part are you referring to or want to use? ...."front valence" has me confused....lol..........andyd

When I had the 1941 Plymouth Coupe I obtained a Fulton 1000 visor and it used very distinctive brackets that screwed onto the inside of the door jam and a fairly thin centre bracket.............as I like chrome and the side brackets were made from aluminium I polished them which you can see in the attached pics........I also decided that the original centre bracket was not sufficient and made a much stronger bracket from two pieces of stainless steel that were bolted together and clamped around the centre windscreen divider bar as shown in the attached pics............and like a dope I sold the car a few years later ............duh........andyd

Of course in the pre internet days, like 40 yrs ago I couldn't find a mirror to suit my Oz 1940 Dodge and USA sourced Ford swan neck mirrors or hinge mounted ones didn't fit so I made my own using the top of some old accessory mirror welded onto some steel rod and strip, had the lot chromed and 40 yrs later it still works........can't find any better pics...........car looks better without the vinyl roof it had for 30 yrs, 1975 to 2005...lol.....andyd

As far as having one coil cut from the front suspension all it seemed to do was make the ride a little harsher, if I had kept the car I would have eventually had new coils made of the new lowered height which would have changed the overall ride, I also would have changed the front shocks and/or the upper shock mount as well as getting a stiffer front sway bar made......the shock 1940/41 sway bar is only about 3/4 or 7/8th thick........I had a 1" thick sway bar made with Heim joints and it made a huge difference to the handling...........andyd

That would be the AMT 1/25th kit.....I've been building models since the early 60's...........scratch build a rear seat & paint the interior grey & you can build the Auxillary Seat Coupe that I had...you'll have pretend its RHD......lol............couple of hints & tips.......the kit headlights are too thick, try & thin them down a little...also the area between the chrome grille bars is actually a sheet metal stamped piece & is normally body colour so paint the area between the kit grille bars body colour, also cut the kit metal front axle down to about 3/8th in length & superglue it to the kit stub axle.....BTW..heres a pic of my Tower of Empty Model Kit Boxes.....over 100 kits built since march 2020, its an old pic as theres now 5 columns....lol.........regards, Andyd

Outfxd..........this is one of the best How To threads I've seen......while I don't personally need to do this I appreciate the effort and work that went into doing this & the improvement made......great work & thanks.......andyd

Maybe its been just my Oz luck but my understanding has been that kingpin bushings always have to be reamed to size after being installed in the stub axles.........at least thats what I've always had done both for any mopar kingpin sets I've played with and in fact others including Frod & Shev.......andyd

Admittedly all I have pulled apart have been Oz Plymouth/Dodge front ends that have all had bushings........my understanding was that the needle roller king pins were only in USA made DeSoto/Chrysler cars..........curious now to learn more...........andyd

Pretty sure that until the V8's came along Chrysler itself probably built the rear axle/diffs but if you are installing a 350/auto then a Ford 9" if you have one already makes sense......andyd

From the question I assume you are upgrading the engine?........what engine is going in?.........andyd

I agree with Plymouthy, use a drift/centre punch that is close to the non staked end in size and a good sized heavy duty hammer, support the spindle/stub axle assembly and give the non staked side of the pin a good wack......check for movement......another wack.....check........wack......check..........etc........lol.........I must admit that I don't remember seeing a lock pin that didn't show part of the taper to make it easy to decided what side to wack from..........interesting..............andyd

Robin........you are to be congratulated, thats a wonderful turnout........how many cars in total?...........that pic taken at the service station is a classic.........mnay thanks for your efforts......andyd.

Al-P8........just a suggestion re your WDT........use a pair of pliers to flare the WDT ends out so that it fills the WDT hole in the block a little more, won't harm the WDT and will help to direct more water down the tube..........at least by my reckoning........andyd

Hickory...I must admit I hadn't checked your thread till now but just did and am impressed and thankful that we get to see this as even tho' I'll never play with a babbitt bearing engine I have enjoyed your posts and more importantly have learnt things and for that I thank you........as for how much to grind the head, for me I'd be inclined to err on the side of caution as its hard to put back what you remove.......lol.........I have seen tables that show what compression increase removal of set amounts on later mopar engines results in......maybe try & find that and use it as a comparision to what you have...........either way as mentioned I've learnt things........those bolt on counterweights are a real eye opener...........regards & thanks from Oztralia.......andyd.