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Showing results for tags 'dodge'.
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I'm wanting to upgrade the shocks in the front end without swapping to a kit. Are there newer control arms that will bolt in?
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1948 Dodge Truck - Hot Rod
jameshanks posted a topic in Ebay, Craigslist and External Site Referrals
1948 Dodge Truck - Hot Rod On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/385367597028? -
1950 Dodge B-1 Truck On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/165877031771?
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1940 Dodge Other Pickups RESTORED On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/275570633003?
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1947 Dodge 1/2-Ton Pickup WD-15 On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/334674327057?
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1947 Dodge 1/2-Ton Pickup WD-15 On Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/334674327057?
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Hi recently picked up a 1947 Dodge Custom Sedan. I am new to this world so bare with me. It has an flathead 6 motor which I believe would be the d24? Car was running fine, but ran into an issue with the fuel pump. Wasn’t getting fuel to the pump, replaced with fp from Andy Bernbaum. Now I am getting fuel through the system, and the car is running. Drove around the neighborhood and it is now sputtering and stalling. (This wasn’t happening previously.) Looking for some pointers on this issue (possibly an air leak from installing the new fp?) Also looking for any resources for more knowledge on these vehicles.
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Hey everyone. New to the forum. First 1941 rebuild here. Just finished a 1967 Big Block Corvette with my buddies. The Back Story: In the middle of a power-train rebuild on our families 1941 Dodge Luxury Liner. Car has a 3 speed with the fluid drive. We pulled the fluid drive out of the car. We've had the engine rebuilt. Also rebuilt the transmission our self. Everything was running smooth until the fluid drive unit. When we pulled out the fluid drive, it was still full of fluid. No leaks. We drained the old fluid, and used some de-greaser to clean her up. We filled up the fluid drive unit and let it sit ready for install and to test for leaks. So far so good. The Problem: About a week later, we stood up the fluid drive unit as if you would mount it in the car, spun it around by hand to check, and now it leaks like a dripping facet out the bottom. Not sure if we some how manged the seal by lifting it improperly. Hate to think these could be that fragile. I have never pulled one of these apart, but would love if anyone has a guide, advice or a recommended shop who can assist. I am located in southern California. Cant wait to get this baby sealed up and back in the car. If anyone knows a trans shop or some steps. We tried using a combination of bear pullers, you name it. Maybe we're going at it the wrong way and in over our heads. I have on hand a fluid drive seal kit. Brand new that just came in. I can not remember the vendor I ordered it from.
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Hi everyone. I’m the usual long time lurker, first time poster. After enjoying the forum for a while I thought you might be interested in seeing my ‘54 Dodge Coronet Suburban wagon. I imported it a couple of years ago and have slowly (I mean slowly....) been going through it. It hasn’t been properly on the road since the early 80’s. If you like it, I may start a build thread as I have plenty of pictures and the input would be helpful. Pics below were the day it was delivered -
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Hello all, I've been a ghost on this forum ever since June 1st of this year, when I acquired this fairly awesome, well-documented, mildly famous 1949 Dodge Wayfarer: Some members who have read quite a bit on these cars may recognize this car from a certain Mopar reference website. This is the oldest vehicle I have owned (newer notables include a 1967 Dodge Coronet and 1958 Plymouth Belvedere), and therefore came with a new set of challenges for me like 6 volt positive ground electrical systems and the wonderful tapered rear axles, and Fluid Drive. So thank you all for making this forum what it is today. I've gained the info I've needed to get going on this awesome car. As of today, front brakes and master cylinder have been replaced/overhauled, and the rear axle is to be reassembled in the next couple of evenings. She should be safely on the road for a neighborhood cruise-around this Independence Day. Stay tuned for updates. Glad to be a part of this forum. PS - It's a shame to say that this car was actually under a carport within the debris field of a tornado about three years ago, so the driver's side isn't as pretty as the rest of the car. That will be fixed later. It may need a door. You can see so many ripples in the metal around the large bondo spot. The whole door skin just looks "pissed off" for lack of a better way to say it. I feel like I can fix the fender myself. Also - I DID NOT PERFORM the Bondo "repair" you see pictured below. That would have been a PO.
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hello all, I have a 1933 Dodge DP 6 with a 1953 Dodge 230ci engine, the stock transmission in the vehicle is a 3 speed with no-syncro's and not very good shifting sounds. it either must be rebuilt or will be replaced with a new updated transmission. I am not familiar with what to do in this scenario. is there anyone who can help me find the correct transmission adapter plate and transmission to go with? I have been told to go with a t5 transmission and an adapter plate, but am not sure where I can find these items. I would like to keep the flat head 6 but due to the irritating time trying to find the correct parts that will bolt onto the engine, I am considering full tear down of drive train and install a new mopar v8 setup. but would rather stick with flathead just cant find the correct parts to go with. all help is appreciated. (sorry if this has been asked, I could not find anything relating to this topic) -
Hello, Is possible to get more informations only with body / engine number? I own a 42 Dodge and serial number tag is not there. Thanks
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I have a 33 Dodge DP6 sedan. The windshield has the guide tracks with large thumb screws on both sides and I have loosened those. Before I just put more pressure on the windshield to open it, I wanted to make sure there was not a trick to opening these, or typical problems with rust or seized hinges, stuck window seals, etc. Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks again, MoparBoy
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HI I like to start a new topic, on My 1951 Dodge Crusader ,D40-1-4,, or a Plodge, a Plymouth Body with a Dodge front clip.. bought this Dodge in October 2019,drove only 150 miles,, and then to storage in November for the winter.. Never had a Mopar that old, I was more into the 60's mopars, Did watched the complete Library of Chrysler Master tech on youtube.. so much fun and so much knowledge,, a must for everyone how owned a Mopar. Now here what happen, coming out of storage , no problems, started right up after 2 tried, did poured some gas in the carb , Ran fast idle for a good 10 minutes, Had a 30 Miles run to go home.. never made it!!! on it owns,, I had to call a towing,, After 10 miles. if I stop and accelerated throught the gears, went I got in 3e gears ,, it will start to act-up, i will not accelerated, spit & spodder thought the carb. Just like it ran-out of gas!!?? the glass bold was full of fuel , from what I can see, if I pourred so gas down the carb, it would fire -up & died. The next morning, fired right up, no problems. like nothing happen ???? So ,First I replaced the 6 volts coil with a new one, Blue streak by Standard,, worked fine, but I also had a brand new gas pump ,a SPECTRA PREMIUM SP1296MP fuel pump.. Drove the car around the blocks a few times,, no problems,, so it was the coil?? no wrong!! (maybe) On my way to my friend house, He has a lift in his garage, I was going to grease the many dozens of grease nipples,, and replaced the fuel pump since I had buy it anyway.. to make the 5 miles or so ride, I took the long way to his place, more like 10 miles ,, Quest what!!??? It start to acted-up again going up-hill in 3th gear,,, I made it to his place without accelerating in 3th gear, So I took the right inner fender off, took a few pics,,, WOW!! the fuel pump pin that hold the actual pump level , the pivot pin had come out,, plus check the engine tag,, Industrial engine ,, oh well don't know what to thing ?? Good or Bad??
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on my 1951 dodge , i have this cardboard heater box that connect the radiator heater to the inside of the car,, how can i fix this?? tape or can I still buy good one on the internet???
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I am restoring a 1948 Dodge D24 and have a firewall plate that is blank (after being cleaned). I want to know what information would be on this plate, so I can recreate it. The upper plate in the photo (not yet attached to the firewall) is the one I would like to put some information on (rather that just being a 'plain' metal plate). The lower plate is the serial number. I actually think that both of these would be black - is that correct? Should I paint these black and then have the engraved serial number on the one plate and 'some information' printed in white or silver on the other plate.
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Hey guys, So I decided to take off my tires today to look at the brakes, and didn't realize that the studs are reversed on the driver's side of the car. We managed to punch them out, and went to get replacements, but the replacements don't fit, and all the websites come up with the same studs that don't fit when I search by make/model. Used the number from the parts book and they gave me the same ones. Wondering what type they might be and where i could get some?
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Is there a podcast somewhere,, that as our area of interest. like the Master tech series, some sort of podcast that you can listen to .. like when driving. as a subjet about vintage cars, or mecanical advices..
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Hi All, My name is Andrea and I'm new to this forum. I have managed to find myself a Dodge Fargo to restore that has no rust. From my understanding this was an Australian one, I do not know much about it apart from it was in QLD for 3 years and then a guy in Bendigo bought it and had it for another 3 years however no one has had the time to restore it until now. My husband has four Chryslers/Dodges in his collection however this is the first time we are restoring a truck/pick up (at my request!) I am hoping that someone can shed some light on it's history for me. I have attached some photos of the car and the id badges. I would appreciate if anyone can confirm it is a 1950 and that it's an Australian Car and not an import. Also, this car does not have any back tail lights at all. What are the recommendations? Or are there genuine ones that can be sourced? We are also missing the original badges on the sides of the bonnet (the guy in QLD fitted some non-genuine ones that we will be removing). Any ideas? We also need to know what an original interior looks like as we are missing two of the control buttons on the dashboard. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks Andrea
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Hello everyone. I made a huge mistake and pulled the guts out of my distributor without taking pictures where the wires went to. I thought I would remember but obviously that didnt happen. I have the new points added but can't finish. I'm hoping someone could pull their cap off and take some up close photos of the guts and wires. The pics I have found online don't help me much. Thank you so much for any help you can offer. -Dan
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my crossmember is rusted out near lower control arm mounting bolts...where to cut ..both frames??Dakota is 1990...1947 dodge business coupe
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Howdy, Newbie here! I have a 251cid Dodge engine (T120-77962) in my 1.5 ton truck that has a blown out piston and I did not want to put money into rebuilding it since it's a truck used to just drive around the farm for fun. My question is, will a 230cid Dodge engine (D42-211153) from either 1951 or 1952 be a viable replacement to bolt up to my existing set up? I found an engine nearby in excellent running condition and thought of just swapping mine out for this one. I think that I would have to move the motor mounts, but I don't know if the water pump, thermostat housing, generator or anything else would simply swap out from the 251 to the 230. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Kind regards, Roman
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I have an issue of sputtering/hesitation and what feels like "running out of gas" every time I make a right turn. When I bought the car it would backfire several times and was a little difficult to drive. Once I had the Carburetor rebuilt, it drove significantly better. I was delighted that the fuel issue was eliminated after the rebuild, or so I thought. About the 5th to 7th time driving it, I began to notice sputtering and hesitation on right turns. I tried to duplicate the problem on left handed turns but had no success. However when it comes to right turns, its like clockwork. Last night, while driving straight, pulling away from a traffic light, it backfired badly and blew the muffler out. I'm assuming this is a fuel issue and the best thing is to take it back to the gentleman that rebuilt the carburetor. However, prior to doing so, I wanted to obtain more information and educate myself a little from the all the experienced folks within this forum. Things like incorrect float adjustment, something vibrating loose, poorly tightened screws, etc. or am I way off?
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So I have a 1948 Dodge B Series 3/4 ton truck in my garage from my uncle. The car has its engine completely rebuilt about 5 years ago, then the cab was restored and repainted (he took the engine into the shop and also apparently claims he put $16k into the body), but I'm not so sure about the bed's condition. It's been sitting for about 2-3 years and the engine has very few miles on it. I'll include some pictures. There are a couple spare parts (including glass) in the bed, but mostly nothing that clean. The car is missing finished headlights and most other trim pieces. It's a very clean car and I'm new to the Dodge trucks, so with an engine tune and clean up of the car, what do you guys think it would be worth currently and what would it be worth restored? Thank you -Jack
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I have a 1940 Dodge D14, and I was wondering what the best wiring harness is to replace the original? Mine is corroded and needs replacement.
