andyd

O/k.........I'll play the dummy.......what is THAT POS?.........lol.........a 36 Ford Coupe being carnally molested by late 30's GM brand?..............a fine example of just because you can, doesn't mean you should........andyd

Fireguy...........sounds like the machine shop owner is a decent guy for that admission.............have you read the Link that Sniper posted?...........I've printed it out, its long, 34 A4 size pages but its got some really good info and it maybe worth getting a copy for the machine shop.................it maybe also worth them or you contacting Hot Heads as they are quite experienced in essentially doing the opposite, ie, mating early Hemis to late transmissions and may have some advice regarding the opposite as that is essentially what has to be done now..........there are various crank flange/flexplate adaptors available plus as the Sniper Link mentions other factors such as the location of the bellhousing locating dowells may or may not need to be taken into account...........good luck with it all, I will keep checking on your progress & sending positive thoughts.......regards from Oz..........andyd.

Fireguy...........how are things going........or not?.........have you had any joy with dealing with the engine machine shop?......I hope I havn't added to the confusion...........andyd

If you are feeling that you can do a frame swap then just doing a late 318/trans swap, newer rear axle 7 disc brakes will be a piece of cake and a lot less involved than a frame swap, but your car so your choice.......just its rare that a frame swap ends up being a great choice.....possible but from what I've seen & to be fair, I've really only seen pics of the botched ones it appears that a botched one is more common than not............andyd

Thats a real nice car, a frame swap is really not necessary, the side valve engine can be hopped up via a milled stock head or finned alloy head, twin carbs, upgraded dissy or HEI dissy, headers, a mild cam, balanced & then go hunt some fathead Frods........disc brakes, upgraded shocks & sway bar and you will have a car that holds or increses in value rather than one that will not be worth as much if frame swapped..........heres a pic of a 230 ex airport tug engine I was building........they can look good...........welcome aboard from Oztralia.............Andy Douglas

O/k so its a 4dr, nothing wrong with that.........looks like a nice body, whats the underneath like, interior, etc..........I've seen a lot worse.....just did a quick USA ebay search for tailights & they range from a couple of pairs at $60 & $70 a pair up to some would be's asking $1500-1900 a pair.........I assume at that price they delivery, fit and polish them for the next 10years .......lol....andyd

Yeh!!!.......thats a Plymouth Polysphere........looks nice..........now if only we can answer your original issue............check out Snipers 318 Poly Crankshaft Link............it has the answer I think to this issue........my money is on the engine shop swapping in a later 1962-67 crank with 6 holes whereas as you still had the 8 hole original flywheel............as mentioned check Snipers Link especially pics 2a, 2b, 2c...................andyd

If its a 313 then its an A series Polysphere...........does it have the distinctive "sawtooth" shaped rocker covers, and I think either the crank OR flywheel has been swapped by the reconditioners who didn't have the correct parts or didn't realise there are differences.....Fireguy........can you post a pic of the rocker covers or the whole engine..........thanks.........andyd

Welcome aboard the best mopar forum..........no offence but why do you want to install a 4cylinder GM engine in a mopar?...........apart from anything else what did you intend to do about not having a parking brake any more using the GM install.........whats wrong with the original engine?..........your choice but its an unusual one........andyd

What engine is in the Fargo?........is it a Plymouth based polysphere?...........when the engine was reco'd is there any chance that the crank was swapped or was the flywheel swapped when it was reco'd.........the crank from a later A series Poly or LA Series 318 wedge can be used in the early polys but has a different flange..............I'm getting a pre 62 poly rec'd at the moment so am curious as to whats happened here.........regards from Oz........andyd

Well, I'll be.........this is why I like this forum.....I learn things............I have never heard of nor seen these valve stem protectors..........I've learnt something today...thanks guys.

Mark.........will you adopt me?.........lol........love the shop, perfect man cave & then some....lol........make sure you put it to good use.......andyd

Grumpy Jim, thats a neat car...........being that here in Oz there has never been the range of car models marketed or sold here and generally the exact year or model would be that used by the company when 1st released, so whilst your car is listed as a 1st series 1949, here in Oz unless it had very specific updates or changes that reflected new features or styling changes it would be known still as a 1948 model.......but I understand the USA system.........lol.......just have trouble convincing myself that its indeed a 1949 model........but I'll get over it.........lol........its a nice car .........andyd

As said was not being pedantic, its just that sometimes using the incorrect terms can make life much more complicated than it needs to be..........lol............examples that come to mind include bonnet for USA hood, mudguards or wings for USA fenders & boot for USA trunk.....lol..........trust you get the parts you need asap.........andyd

And yet the original poster hasn't replied in any way..............its not surprising that those who go out of their way to help get annoyed with the bad manners of some............not a good attitude by the original poster which then affects all of us who live outside of North America..............my oz 2 cents worth.......Andy Douglas

The kingpin front suspension does NOT use "Ball Joints" anywhere........Ball Joints were used on the outer upper & outer lower pivot points from 1957 Chrysler products. The Chrysler/Dodge/DeSoto and Plymouth cars from 1939 to 1956 on their Inner & Outer suspension pivot points used bushings and pins, and bronze bushed steel Kingpins for the steering pivots. The steering tierod assembly used 4 tierod ends, two each of left and right hand threaded tierod ends that fitted into similarly left and right hand threaded tubular tierods which allowed toein/toeout adjustment. If you are having problems finding "ball joints" for your 1953 Plymouth it maybe due to the terminology you are using......try searching for "tie rod ends" or similar or inner/outer bushings & pins or kingpins......not trying to be pedantic, regards & welcome from Oztralia.......andyd

Sniper................lol............I had the finned head, finned intake, finned valve side covers, split headers, even a custom water pump & was gunna have a finned aircleaner but sold it.............sometimes I do dumb things...lol...andyd.

Whilst I know this pic shows the aftermarket suppression wires, I just bought a set for a 6 cylinder car non mopar and shortened the wires to suit & crimped the ends myself, the boots were 90degree ones that came with the set..........nothing fancy and just the minimium length needed......and yeh it was a Langdon HEI which turned out to be the best addition I'd done to the car....instant starts, smooth running, better pickup and better fuel economy.........thoroughly recommended........and cleaning up & tidying the engine bay was the next chore to do.......lol........andyd

Or step up to the plate and get a finned Beehive filter, they normally come with a paper listing of over 1 dozen different filter canisters that fit and being a finned filter can they make the engine look faster..............lol...........at least thats my story..........andyd

I did a somewhat similar but different thing to the Oz Chrysler Royal rear axle/brakes under my 1940 Dodge. After I adapted 11" vented OZ PBR discs to the front 1941-54 stub axles the rear drums still not great so this is what I did.........this was on a 1962 Oz Chrysler Royal rear end which from what I understood was essentially a 1956 Plymouth rear end.......... .........I removed the rear brake drum and then separated the actual "hub" from the brake drum... .........I then obtained an Oz 1970 Valiant front disc rotor which was a vented style and had about 1/4" machined from the separated "hub" circumference which allowed it to sit inside the disc rotor then I attached the two together using countersunk 3'8th cap screws. .........This then allowed the disc to be bolted onto the rear axle via the center nut. ........The remains of the rear brake assembly was removed from the brake backing plate and the backing plate cut down to just a small circular piece that held the seal & bearing as per standard. ........I then obtained 1973 Ford rear Vented Disc calipers and after sitting them against the vented disc rotor was able to come up with a small caliper bracket using 4 of the 5 seal backing plate bolt holes to attach the caliper bracket. ........A small piece of the caliper mount had to be shamfered to gain clearance on the mounting bracket but apart from that the adaption was complete and would still be in use were it not for issues with the rear outer bearing which cracked and spun inside the axle housing gently machining it "oversize"...... .........the first time this happened I had access to a metal spraying company & had the new outer bearing race built up the required 20thou.......the 2nd time this happened after 25 yrs later I did not have the access to this metal spraying process so I replaced the whole rear axle assembly with that from a 1992 Ford Falcon station wagon which virtually bolted in apart from drilling 2 extra U bolt holes.... ..........Unfortunately I did not take any pics of what I did but its surprising what can be achieved if you set your mind to it........lol..........Andy Douglas

My 1940 Dodge has the same button switch as Soth.....try to get access to the rear of the button and push it towards the dash with your left hand taking some pressure off the hold it has and with your right hand try to move/undo the bezel.....thats assuming its going to be the same setup as others........you mention "bakelite".......is that just the molding that the button comes thru or is the actual bezel made of bakelite?........andyd

I'd squirt lots of WD40 or similar into the gland nut area, think positive thoughts & good luck..........lol.......andyd.

In 1957 Oz Chrysler came out with the Chrysler Royal a 54 Plymouth body with 55 Plymouth fenders grafted on & with 3 different engine & transmission options.....the 230 if you wanted a standard 3 speed, the 250 if you wanted the Overdrive or Powerflite Auto and if ordered with the 313 Poly your only choice was the Powerflite..... ............now the weird thing was that the Overdrive and Powerflite options got you the normal driveshaft mounted Parking Brake setup......no exceptions...... .............BUT if you ordered the standard 230 & 3 speed gearbox you got what I had never seen in a mopar with a sidevalve engine.........you got a rear axle with the Parking Brakes MOUNTED INSIDE the Rear brake drum like late model cars AND the gearbox linkages on the Oz Right Hand Side of the transmission with NO driveshaft handbrake, it was as mentioned inside the rear brake drums .......so was there any use of a rear axle in USA Mopars with the side valve 6 engines that had the parking brake inside the rear brake drums?........... .........this pic is of the 1957 Chrysler Royal, unfortunately I never took a pic of the 3 speed gearbox I had with the shifter forks on the US Passenger side.....regards, andyd

Isn't it funny that for years these 41-48 Dodge, DeSoto & Chrysler 3 window coupes were the unknown cars that only a select few ever lusted for......... .............my take on it all was that when 40/41 Willys 3Window Coupes became the flavour of the month & so wanted that it spawned a huge fibreglass body market people went looking for other 3window coupes, eg, the Lincoln Zephyr & when they too priced themselves out of most peoples reach the cry went out.........!!!!!!!!..... .............Who else did/does 3 window Coupes........why Mother Mopar did............rats, the market for the best looking 3 window coupe is now becoming hot.........and deservedly so........both those Coupes look like they were poured from a cup of jelly.......so smooth and unified, fenders uncluttered with extraneous stampings, moldings or extra do-dads....................just beautiful clean design.........yum................andyd

Not really sure what happened.......I thought I followed the correct prompts and filled in the various sections but nothing seemed to happen except that it seemed to go back to the original request again.........I'll try again, thought it maybe a glich as I'm outside of North America, Australia, and the phone number section may have come up as a problem when I typed in the Oz number...........anyway will try again.............Andy Douglas