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andyd

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Everything posted by andyd

  1. If you have got this far...with the pan off, I'd drop the rear main & check the rear seal condition......also check whether the main cap actually has the little side seals, one on each side.....there are 2 different types, similar to each other but differing shapes.....I went to change the rear seal on the 41 Plymouth I had which "should" have had the rope seal.....nope, no rope........it had a neoprene seal but more importantly it had NO SIDE SEALS at all so when the main cap was bolted up there was the neoprene seal around the crank but there was err maybe a 50 thou cap between the cap & the block..........lol..........not much but enough to let a reasonable amount of oil to seep past..........installation of the side seals made a HUGE difference...still leaked a little which was the worn neoprene seal but nowhere like before.......my Oz 2 cents worth.............andyd
  2. I must have missed this one............did someone upset him?..........andyd
  3. I'm assuming the car is an Oz build........what are the various numbers on the engine, firewall and anywhere else such as the front door pillars...got any extra pics?......andyd
  4. Have you tried Jim Robinson in Victoria, 03 5345 4094, also Les Sonter in Sydney, 02 9639 8703..........both may have some bits......as far as getting things overseas....make sure that you know exactly what the parts you want were called, listed as or to suit on the US or Canadian cars as while you may think what you want is straightforward it may not have been used on that brand there as here in Oz lots of things were substituted which may look identical but ain't.....lol.............re the canister filter......does it have any markings, name,numbers, etc as there were lots of these around but not all were exactly the same.......the best improvements I did to the 41 Plymouth Coupe I had were the Beehive oil Filter and the Langdons Engineering HEI distributor........andyd
  5. And I just did a search on Oz ebay under "1946-1953 Chrysler Workshop Manual" and a few are listed ranging from $49.00 to over $115.00 Australian.......note that the Oz manual is fairly basic but does cover all the mechanical, electrical and basic body repairs for the Oz, TJ Richards bodied/Chrysler Australia assembled cars.........depending on how much you want to get into mopars then the USA sourced manuals provide a MUCH more detailed level of info, together with things like a Parts Manual whilst specifically covering the US cars does include pics and detailed drawings of various parts that you may only know by name but not sight.......... ..............BUT the other issue is that the Oz mopars were generally Plymouth based cars with Dodge or DeSoto badging, & grille variations ...........consequently the US Parts manuals and even the US workshop manuals show different features that don't directly apply to the Oz assembled cars.........lol..........I would strongly suggest joining a local Chrysler Club..........whilst I am a hotrodder I have been involved with the NSW Based Chrysler Restorers Club of Australia since the early 1970's & would recommend joining them or a similar club.....but as I mentioned..give me a call........I talk better than I type............andyd
  6. Kendenup........Welcome aboard........those things that are missing on your bumpers are called "overiders" and would have normally been a standard inclusion on the car........your car should have model or serial number plate on the firewall starting with D36, this should also be on the engine block on the Oz passenger side, above the generator stamped into a machined boss with the engine number starting with this D36............ Your car should also have the 25" engine which is the DeSoto/Chrysler "long" block engine and should be 218.06 cubes.............it was known here in OX as a "Kew" engine a term which means NOTHING to the Yanks on this forum but is an Oz only term...........as for a workshop manual.the factory manual was published by Scientific Publications and covered the 1946-1953 Plymouth/Dodge & DeSoto Brands and came out in 1954...........they are available............I'm in Grafton NSW and have been playing with Oz mopars since 1969........I'm retired so am available anytime......give me a call if you like, on 02 6642 5963............regards, Andy Douglas
  7. Theres a guy, Paul Curtis who does T5 adaptors..........do a search either on this forum or via the web.......as far as I know he still does them............andyd
  8. Keith, thanks for the reply......at present I do not personally need the info however when I had the 41 Plymouth Coupe I was contemplating rebuilding the steering box, however sold the car(like a dope)..........the 40 Dodge sedan I have is hotrodded & uses a rack & pinion ........over the years I've worked on a couple of Oz mopars and the steering box has always seemed to be a problem, whilst I have been able to source bearings & seals and make gaskets the RHD worm & rollers have been the regular issue............knowing that Fords used similar parts may open up the replacement options also.........thanks for the info...............BTW I have both a 1953 and 1957 Motors Auto Repair Manuals but have never noticed the cross referencing that your 1940 edition has........in what section did this cross reference appear?...........thanks, andyd
  9. Keith.........can you advise what Ford parts were the same as those used in your Plymouth steering box?.........was it seals?, bearings?, what about the worm and/or rollers?........thanks, andyd
  10. Oldguy48.....what the others have said is correct...the inner & outer, upper & lower control arm bushings on mopars up to 1956 do have more "play" than the modern car & if the mechanic is not familiar with the design will assume the bushings are worn.......they maybe BUT they also are designed to have more play than a modern car.........I too have a "hotrod'.......actually has been that way since 1973 when the 318 Poly was installed in the 1940 Dodge.........each year I have to have an annual safety inspection and always come prepared to argue the merit or not of the stock style front suspension...........hopefully your inspector will believe your presentation.........lol..........andyd
  11. That looks like a nice 58 Dodge....andyd
  12. I'd think that the tailight & backup lenses should be around , and yep the upholstery looks good..........a shame about that rear bumper chrome.........the car looks like a previous owner did spend some money on it re the upholstery, but sitting on the ground is not doing it any favours......what do the rockers look like?........that rust showing when you opened the rear passenger door.........does any of it look like its rusted thru?..........thats not a good area for rust to occour in........it really needs someone to love it....lol..how much do the current owners want for it?.............andyd...
  13. Swapping in new uni joints will/should not result in needing a shaft balance.............although in theory shortening may require it to be done, depending on how its modified but new joints..nope...........andyd
  14. Nope, no mopar that I am aware of has a torque tube drive, all mopars were/are open drive, ie spinning driveshaft with uni joints or ball & trunion joints front & rear.......Andy Bernbaums used to carry Powerflite rebuild kits and parts, I'd try them.....as for whats it worth as its a 4dr in general they are worth much less than a 2dr,coupe, convert or wagon but in some respects they are looked upon as something different when they turn up at a show because of that fact..........it does look like one that would clean up well..........regards from Oz......andyd
  15. Unfortunately no new project........just thought I'd try to help a mate here in Oz who is doing up a 48 Chrysler.............I'd love to know the reasoning that was used for putting the number on that part of the frame, instead of an easily found and seen spot in the engine bay area.........strange........lol.
  16. Can't answer re whether the author frequents here but am impressed that someone has taken the time to do such a tome........good to see.......andyd
  17. As far as I know all the various brands of pumps so long as the mounting flange on the actual pump body is the same then whether the pump arm touches the cam below, or above the cam shouldn't make any difference as to how the pump operates...........but happy to be shown I'm wrong..............andyd
  18. Sorry I can't offer any help but have you posted this on the Pilothouse Truck side of this Forum?.....hopefully they should be able to help........andyd
  19. Does anyone know where exactly the chassis or frame number is located on a 1946-48 Chrysler New Yorker?...........thanks.....andyd
  20. The movie "Elvis" was made by Baz Luhrman here in Oz..........looks like I'll have to see the movie for sure now..........lol.......andyd
  21. Only thing I would add is what are you going to do about a parking brake as stock they are on the driveline.........do you intend to swap the rear axle as well, then if its from the same Ford as the engine etc then it will have the parking brake setup also...........here in Oz some guys stick the Oz only 245/265 "Hemi" 6 or the DOHC Ford Barra 6 where early 6's used to live........andyd
  22. Jonathan....thats a real nice car you have there........re the sun visor.....I wasn't that keen on them myself for a while but ended up getting this one for the Plymouth Coupe I had and installed it with a stronger centre bracket as I worried about it flipping when passing cars or trucks went by.......lol..........anyway got more pics of your Chrysler?......we all love pics....lol...........regards from Oztralia......andyd
  23. I used an Oz 1962 Chrysler rear axle which was basically a 55/56 Plymouth rear axle for 30 yrs with a home made rear disc conversion.......used a front vented 11 rotor hat from an Oz late 60's Valiant and attached it to the rear drum brake hub held onto the axle with the large centre nut which then had a custom made caliper bracket using 4 of the 5 rear axle brake drum backing plate bolts and the caliper bracket held the 1975 Oz Ford rear disc caliper..........worked fine of 30 yrs or so but I eventually swapped it for a complete 1990's Oz Ford disc brake rear end..........I would NOT use the original rear axle unless that was all that was available, which back in the mid 1970's was pretty much all I could afford...........lol...........andyd
  24. Hey.Belvedereguy.....lol..........I like the models.....I build plastic kits........heres a couple of pics of some of them....and a pic of the Tower of Empty Model Kit Boxes..this is an old pic taken about 12 months ago.....I've built over 90 kits in the past 3yrs, this is just some of them......I have another 300 car kits and 110 plane kits to go..........lol......my wife hopes I'll grow out of it.... and also a pic of the hobby shop I had for 20 yrs........BTW what brand & scale is that 48 Chrysler Windsor?...........regards, andyd
  25. I have a full set hanging on the wall of my garage, they were original to the car, unfortunately after getting them rechromed back in the early 70's before I hotrodded the car I was in a line of fellow club members when an idiot coming the other way swerved into the side of my car, clipped the front drivers side fender and hit the protruding rear fender ripping it straight off and sending it over the roof of the rod behind me.......he, the idiot hit the tyre then the rim and hubcap with its nice shiney chrome sending the hubcap into the bush beside the road, never to be found again......lol...........so as far as I know there is a place on Henry Lawsons Road at Milperra, Sydney NSW which should still have a nice re chromed 1940 Dodge hubcap, although it may have the odd dent.............I found an extra 1940 Dodge hubcap a few years later but by that stage I was running alloy mags...........BTW I'm not trying to be a smartarse.............the right hubcap will turn up, they are not that special but I understand your pain as I was not happy at the time I lost the one from my car..........I took a pic of the rear fender but can't locate it now......instead of about 3 foot long by 2 foot high it ended up being about 1 foot long and 3foot high with little squares where each of the bolts had ripped little squares off and all the bolts had a little 1x2" piece of metal under each....the body was fine except for the front edge adjacent to the door which was a little squashed.......lol.....taught me a bit more panelbeating .........lol..........you'll find one................regards from Oz.....Andy Douglas
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