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1949 plymouth special deluxe p18 1st oil change


Oliver Klozoff

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19 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Gear oil pump, turkey baster, etc.

 

A real nut might even plumb a drain line with shut off ale into the bottom connection.

 

Ok so the filter I purchased is a bit too tall. It's an STP S2859A. 

What filter do I want from parts store?

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My tool of choice is the Mity-Vac fluid extractor. Also great for rear axles, transmissions etc. Quick and easy clean up too. I bought the 2 gallon version. 

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31 minutes ago, Sniper said:

No idea

 

 

You still have the old one?

Yeah but the printed number is worn off, all I can make out is C134PL.. Ill try to search that.

 

 

Ok that cross ref to this STP I have thats a bit taller

Edited by Oliver Klozoff
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"Yinz" is Pittsburghese, like y'all in the south

 

 

 

4 minutes ago, Sniper said:

 

Not sure what that word means.

 

Measure out your old one, use the Wix site to find the right one, remember it is a bypass filter.

 

https://wixfilters.com/Lookup/FilterBySize.aspx?catid=3&styleid=9

 

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I have a Purolator filter housing. It uses a wix 51080.

I have seen a number of people with Fram filter housings and several styles of Mopar filters. I doubt they all use the same filter. To further complicate things, some brands have changed numbers. For instance, my Purolator was NOS, with a NOS filter inside marked "replace with P-50). Easy. Bought a Purolator P50. Totally different size.

 

Screenshot_20230723_225106_Brave.jpg.e3f1da3e81f26bacea8633f9fc478505.jpg

 

 

PS: the older inhabitants of western North Carolina also say 'y'inz' 

Edited by FarmerJon
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39 minutes ago, FarmerJon said:

I have a Purolator filter housing. It uses a wix 51080.

I have seen a number of people with Fram filter housings and several styles of Mopar filters. I doubt they all use the same filter. To further complicate things, some brands have changed numbers. For instance, my Purolator was NOS, with a NOS filter inside marked "replace with P-50). Easy. Bought a Purolator P50. Totally different size.

 

Screenshot_20230723_225106_Brave.jpg.e3f1da3e81f26bacea8633f9fc478505.jpg

 

 

PS: the older inhabitants of western North Carolina also say 'y'inz' 

 

Had a look on wix, seems like O'Reilly carry them. I'll call around tomorrow 

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9 hours ago, FarmerJon said:

I have a Purolator filter housing. It uses a wix 51080.

I have seen a number of people with Fram filter housings and several styles of Mopar filters. I doubt they all use the same filter. To further complicate things, some brands have changed numbers. For instance, my Purolator was NOS, with a NOS filter inside marked "replace with P-50). Easy. Bought a Purolator P50. Totally different size.

 

Screenshot_20230723_225106_Brave.jpg.e3f1da3e81f26bacea8633f9fc478505.jpg

 

 

PS: the older inhabitants of western North Carolina also say 'y'inz' 

My Purolator housing has P40 etched on the top, this crosses to a Wix 51201, this was sourced from a pick a part yard. The filter on my 52 engine takes a Fram C134PL or a Wix 51080.

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On a side note: once you get the new filter in there, make sure that the rubber gasket is properly positioned in the cap groove and doesn't get pushed inside the cup when you attempt to tighten the cap nut. Otherwise, you'll have fresh oil all over the place when you start the car. Don't ask me how I know ?

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If you have a spare moment Oliver, you may find Sam Buchanan’s write up on his wix spin-on bypass filter conversion, very interesting. 
    It’s a very nice, no mess , conversion, with in stock , over the counter, filters. 
 I apologize that I am not able to bring up the link to the article but it’s here in the forum ?

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7 hours ago, Saskwatch said:

If you have a spare moment Oliver, you may find Sam Buchanan’s write up on his wix spin-on bypass filter conversion, very interesting. 
    It’s a very nice, no mess , conversion, with in stock , over the counter, filters. 
 I apologize that I am not able to bring up the link to the article but it’s here in the forum ?

Man that sounds like something I'd definitely be interested in. Easier to find filters and less messy then using a cough medicine cup to dip it out 

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go to your dollar store and purchase a turkey baster. The baster has a rubber bulb on the one end and a metal or plastic tube that the bulb goes over.

 

Take the old filter out of the metal canister. wrap some paper or cloth around th eold filter and put it in the trash. Not plase the baster into the canister with the small end at the bottom of the canister, squezze the rubber bulb. you will then hear bubbles of air then release the rubber bulb. The suction will then suck up the oil from the canister. Have another empty can to place the used oil into. Continue until all of the old oil is removed. Wipe out the inside of the canister with a clean rag. Install the new filter, put some fresh motor oil into the canister to cover the top of the filter do not fill to the top edge. Make sure the rubber gasket it in place. Tighten down the lid with the nut on the lid and make sure it is tight.

All of the above should have been done after you drained the oil out of the oil pan. Make sure you reinstalled the oil pan drain plug.  OK now then fill up the drain pan via the inlet pipe put inthe proper amt of oil. Start the car. Look for any leaks in the oil pan and the oil filter assembly. If any then shut dow the car and address the leaking issue.

 

Dispose of the oil at an automiotive store that recycles oil.  Now your are done.

 

Rich Hartung

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2 hours ago, desoto1939 said:

go to your dollar store and purchase a turkey baster. The baster has a rubber bulb on the one end and a metal or plastic tube that the bulb goes over.

 

Take the old filter out of the metal canister. wrap some paper or cloth around th eold filter and put it in the trash. Not plase the baster into the canister with the small end at the bottom of the canister, squezze the rubber bulb. you will then hear bubbles of air then release the rubber bulb. The suction will then suck up the oil from the canister. Have another empty can to place the used oil into. Continue until all of the old oil is removed. Wipe out the inside of the canister with a clean rag. Install the new filter, put some fresh motor oil into the canister to cover the top of the filter do not fill to the top edge. Make sure the rubber gasket it in place. Tighten down the lid with the nut on the lid and make sure it is tight.

All of the above should have been done after you drained the oil out of the oil pan. Make sure you reinstalled the oil pan drain plug.  OK now then fill up the drain pan via the inlet pipe put inthe proper amt of oil. Start the car. Look for any leaks in the oil pan and the oil filter assembly. If any then shut dow the car and address the leaking issue.

 

Dispose of the oil at an automiotive store that recycles oil.  Now your are done.

 

Rich Hartung

Around here all the places that take oil also take the filters for recycling 

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I could not find a Fram C134PL filter anywhere in northern Maine (not saying much, not much here).  Almost seems they don't make it anymore (?).    Every place I tried, even ones with supplies of Fram filters, had to research the number.  I went with the Wix 51080, which isn't intended for old cars per se, but for industrial / agricultural applications.  Advance Auto had them in stock - with a good layer of dust on the box.

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1 hour ago, Dan Hiebert said:

I could not find a Fram C134PL filter anywhere in northern Maine (not saying much, not much here).  Almost seems they don't make it anymore (?).    Every place I tried, even ones with supplies of Fram filters, had to research the number.  I went with the Wix 51080, which isn't intended for old cars per se, but for industrial / agricultural applications.  Advance Auto had them in stock - with a good layer of dust on the box.

What is different between the spec of the C134PL and the wix 51080?

Other than advance auto's catalog "fitment" recommendation.

 

Screenshot_20230726_090350_Brave.jpg.c12b519a9cadcb76569563486af74bbe.jpgScreenshot_20230726_090416_Brave.jpg.3b1bdaed19942a368e03010b2345f7b7.jpg

 

Edit: wow, the quality of those pictures is utter ****. Sorry.

Summary: Fram 25 micron nominal rating, intended for bypass filtering of lubrication. Wix 21 micron nominal, intended for bypass filtering of lubrication. 

Measurements are slightly different, by around .030" 

 

Edited by FarmerJon
Picture quality to low to be useful
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The wixx 51010 filter is what i use on my 39 Desoto.  They were made for Mercedes cars. the lower the micron number the more cleaning of the oil. These filters are a bypass filtering system in our older cars not a full flow spin on style like in our modern cars.

 

Rich Hartung

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I went with what was in stock, knowing Wix is a good product, and it had been recommended in other threads in this Forum.  It is obvious when comparing the construction of the filters that the Wix one is a sturdier filter, and I like that it has a bail on top to ease removal when the time comes.  Not that I ever had a problem with the Fram C134PL filters, I bought a case of them many moons ago and had used the last one with the oil change before this most recent one.  From the responses I got when I was looking for the Fram filter, which included no Fram replacement number for it, I can only assume Fram doesn't make a filter for our stock applications anymore.  

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