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Everything posted by FarmerJon

  1. I have the same car, a mostly stock '48 Special Deluxe. My only performance modification is a dual exhaust and a good tune up. No headers, just a split factory manifold. Stock Rear end ratio is 3.9-1. Someone could have swapped a 4.1 center in, but even if so, car is mechanically capable of 70+mph Is your car unable to exceed 55mph, or are you unwilling to drive faster than 55mph? I have run up to 75 or so, but it handles much nicer at 65. If you have the pedal to the floor at 55 and it won't go any faster, then you need to find the problem and fix it. Only real way to alter cruising RPM at a given speed is to alter your final drive ratio. You could change rear gear ratios, there are 3.73 and 3.54 ratios that can be found for your existing axle. You could put a taller tire on the rear. Or you can swap some sort of overdrive transmission in. '52-56 a Overdrive was offered as an option, it is a direct bolt in to your car. Many people here have installed the more modern T5 transmission. As far as performance out of the flathead six, there are gains to be had.
  2. Keith, with the new gauge, what temps are you seeing? A spacer to get the fan closer to the radiator and a shroud would help with the cooling efficiency and also theoretically reduce the horsepower needed to drive the fan. Win/win Evans coolant is a neat product that I would like to try one day. There are also "water wetter" products that are supposed to help with conventional coolant mixes. I don't really get why y'all are so freaked out by 180-200 temps. Those are ideal temps to me. I was pretty disappointed to find that my 180 thermostat keeps me around 175 most of the time, and am planning to swap in a 195 stat soon. 160f is great for burning more fuel, making less power, and causing extra sludge to form in that non detergent, straight weight oil you guys all swear by.
  3. I am no professional wheel cylinder repair man, but with the few I have done in the past, the kits I currently have, and the various kits I opened when I worked at a parts counter years ago, I have never seen a packet of lube in a wheel or master cylinder rebuild kit. The hard rule I was taught about rebuilding wheel cylinders was to use brake fluid as your assembly lube. Absolutely every resource I have seen says DO NOT MIX silicone and glycol base fluids. Applying silicone assembly lube would totally fly in the face of what every manufacturer recommends. As an aside, just got a master back from White Post. Looks to be very clean work, I will deal with them again in the future.
  4. I don't like to use brake hoses if I don't know how old they are, or if more than 8-10 years old. They can collapse inside and cause major pita to diagnose. The reason major manufacturers don't use Dot 5 (silicone) is that it ISN'T better than Dot3/4/5.1. Yes it doesn't absorb water, so instead any water that gets in, sits in the low points of system, still causing rust. It doesn't perform as well, and gives a mushy pedal feel that many don't like. It also doesn't do a very good job lubricating seals. If your car only drives a few miles a year and is stored indoors, it may be a good choice but if you are going to drive it try a quality Dot 4 or 5.1 and just flush it out every other year.
  5. I did mine a few months back, not so hard, but had trouble getting the check valves to seat. I hope this helps! https://p15-d24.com/topic/57288-fuel-pump-rebuild-help/
  6. Where is #thebelvedereman ? Isn't that the front end you want?
  7. For the record, the main reason for NOT dumping Ethylene glycol on the ground isn't just to appease the eco-nazis of the Wrong coast. Ethylene glycol is a toxin that doesn't rapidly degrade and will poison your ground and surface water. Buy the $6 drain pan and collect it up and return it to your local parts store or landfill on "household waste day". Also, it makes asphalt slippery. It isn't a Left vs Right issue. Toxic in water is bad. Don't be lazy, do the right thing.
  8. My 12v light worked but was pretty dim on 6v. Hooking it to a spare battery sounds like a good idea! I don't know if a wobbly radiator fan would cause missing, but it certainly could make a bad vibration and be a hazard to your radiator. Iirc, you can take the stock one off and put the pulley back on with the same bolts. Should tell you if a problem is being caused by the fan, but don't let it idle long! ETA: check your water pump while you are there, make sure it turns freely, smoothly and doesn't have excessive play or wobble.
  9. Get off my transmission, Bryan!
  10. Yeah, their website is almost as intolerable as 'Dons mopars'. Wow, just had some drums turned, this did not even cross my mind, but makes total sense!! Terrell machine in Texas rebuilds fuel pumps, he was a pleasure to work with when he did my vacuum advance unit. I have a fuel/vacuum pump I plan on sending him in the near future.
  11. I have been hunting for a R10, and saw those. I am unwilling to gamble $1k on those mudballs. The seller gives just enough info to be suspicious. If I had $3000 worth of transmission to sell, I would pressure wash them, drain oil to check for water, and check that they turn smooth and that regular shift levers can move normally. Kinda the least you can do, unless you know they are out of flood cars, and are nearly locked up, and don't care if they sell. On the flip side, shipping is included, so really they are $750+shipping. Maybe people will snap them up, I don't know.
  12. When I rebuilt my pump I found that the pin supplied with my kit was significantly smaller than my original, .010 or so. I was able to reuse my original one, and staked it well to keep it from wandering. OP, to believe the original, glass bowl pump is an AC 588, but you may find that yours is a Carter or other variant that isn't compatible with the AC rebuild kit.
  13. Have you emailed Tim Kingsbury? I believe he has many old Mopar engineering documents, and has lots of hands on experience with the insides of the engines.
  14. In my experience, chemical cleaners work best as a maintenance item, but usually are ineffective once things are fully clogged. Cooling systems and fuel systems both. The cleaner needs to be able to flow through all the passages, removing buildup as it does. If stuff is broken, cleaners won't fix them.
  15. Along the same lines, should dual carbs with chokes have fast idle linkages?
  16. I wonder how far past the restriction turbulence continues? Also, what if volume is reduced right before the restriction? You aren't trying to force as much fluid thru the restriction, so it shouldn't waste as much energy on turbulence. Every galley that leads to a bearing is reducing the amount in the system, so that at the end, it is much less than what the pump is initially picking up. What if they are deliberately causing turbulence and reduced pressure right in front of the mains so that they have 'time' to get more oil? I think you have a few options 1. Leave it be. It will be as good as it ever was. It will be fine. 2. Drill the passage to .33, all the way to the cam, so it matches the early block. Possibly your cam will get more oil than needed. It will be fine. 3. Drill past the main feed, but leave a smaller section to restrict the cam. Possibly mess up some long forgotten innovation from the engineering department of 1950s Mopar. Possibly reduce turbulence and pressure drop at the mains. It will be fine. 4. Use a taper reamer to blend the two sizes together. Risk of breaking reamer and likely high cost of tool makes this a poor option.
  17. Do you do anything special to neutralize the vinegar when you flush it out?
  18. A torque wrench is NOT a breaker bar!!! Set and used properly, it will not strip threads any more than any other hand ratchet, even in aluminum. They serve ONLY to measure how much torque you are applying. I use torque wrenches every day, on everything from M4 screws in titanium and aluminum to great big suckers in cast iron. If I start stripping threads and breaking fasteners I should be fired. All that said, I usually just eyeball it with sparkplugs in an iron head, and save the torque wrench for aluminum heads with plugs in tricky places where my "feel-o-meter" may get out of whack. https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/spark-plug-installation
  19. What year is the block with the stepped oil galley? Did either engine show abnormal wear in the bearings?
  20. Didn't you have a second block, mostly apart? Checking that may be your best bet for comparison. My initial take would be that step would/should be after the mains , but I think it is unlikely to be "by mistake" However As yourself and others have said, what is on the engineering drawing and what happens on the factory floor are two different things. Tim Kingsbury has lots of period documents, you may reach out to him and see if he knows. I have done oil passage mods on Ford FE engines, but only stuff already pioneered by Ford and other racing teams. I suspect they figure out what is needed by crafting a sort of "oil system Dyno" where they can measure results of their mods. Almost everything is a balance, although we need to remind ourselves that sometimes that balance is between performance and production cost/time. If you can identify things that saved the company $00.15/peice, and you can do for cheap or free, that is where you can gain without sacrifice. Oil passages are large near the pump, where volume and pressure are highest. As oil gets consumed, passages get smaller to keep pressure at needed levels. You don't want passages so large that they take time to fill, or reduce pressure.
  21. How hot is "Hot"? 180? 200? 250? How does it act when it is "Hot"? We can't see what you are working with. A lot of good questions already asked, until they are answered, not much more help we can give.
  22. I don't think there is any factory brackets there, I would suspect someone welded in a trailer hitch, then years later it was cut off with a torch. Not uncommon to see old pictures of cars pulling all sorts of trailers in the '50s and '60s.
  23. FarmerJon


    Just filled up, 11.3 all town, lots of idling. Carb boils over really easily, I suspect that the split manifold does not block off the heat riser. Got 15 on my last tank.
  24. Looks like several suggestions, good and bad here. Doesn't sound like there is one absolute answer.
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