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I don't know which way to hammer out the oil seal on the timing cover?


MarcDeSoto

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I think at this point you're probably not going to get the seal out by hammering on it. The cover is probably now a bit distorted and clamping the seal in. The uneven force of a hammer blow is not going to move it. 

 

IMO at this point it's going to need even pressure all around the circumference of the seal to get it out. So find a friend or a shop with a press and press it out. Spray it with penetrating oil first and as noted above make sure the cover is supported from the back when pressing the seal out or it will just collapse.

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Yes, I was thinking a press is the only way now to get it out.  I wonder if my vise would work in place of a press.  As long as I could support the back of the timing cover and use a seal installation tool to press it out?

Edited by MarcDeSoto
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I think it would be vice abuse to try & use it .... not easy either because of the jaws and diameter of the seal .... I have broken the jaw off of a vice before. They have limitations.

 

I have used my truck as a press before. .... Light duty to compress the springs to put a pressure plate back together.

I do not think my 1/2 ton truck would have enough weight to push out your seal.

Buuuut!, if you can get setup under the foundation of your house ..... ???

 

That is something Fred would do .... Don't be Fred.

0925211235a.jpg.3590c27b16efec87ba89219c480f60bc.jpg

 

I feel really comfortable with a tool like this. I use to work on a production line using a tool like this several hours a day.

I would use the tool to make a wide area removing the thickness of the metal of the seal.

By doing so you are making the metal seal so thin & weak you can manipulate easily with a screwdriver. And finish cutting it out without touching the case.

 

Heaven forbid, you do touch the case .... you can clean it up and repair the damage you caused.

You need a round hole for the new seal to fit in & seal .... If you cause a groove .... JBweld is your friend.

As it is, seems like you may be likely to cause more damage with a hammer then  a grinder.

https://p15-d24.com/uploads/monthly_2023_01/0101231558.jpg.2613561e3eb2e00911547f392b86fc30.jpg

 

 

Just one of those areas, either step up your game & get creative ..... Or take it to a qualified professional & have the seal changed for you.

Remember getting the seal out is only 1/2 the battle, you still need to install the new seal.

 

 

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I was in Harbor Freight today and saw a small arbor press.  It was a sold out, so I couldn't buy it, but I am looking at similar arbor presses on Amazon.  

 

https://www.amazon.com/HHIP-8600-0031-Heavy-Capacity-Height/dp/B00E0NFMH4/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2YBGOAYV4OE5N&keywords=arbor%2Bpress&qid=1681342946&s=industrial&sprefix=arbor%2Bpress%2Cindustrial%2C128&sr=1-2&th=1

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Take the new seal and the gear cover to a local machine shop and ask them to replace for you..

 

Should be cheaper than buying a one time use tool for you and no chance of parts damage.  My 2 cents only!

 

Maybe the front pulley also and ask them to install a speedy-sleeve on it also.

 

Go home and have a cold drink or two and relax.. NO stress!

 

A few days later pick up and install the parts and add paint, stand back , admire and enjoy life

 

DJ

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OMG!?

This simple job has gone way too far!

I'm going to the tavern..?

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Bring it to the tavern...we'll have a timing cover knock'er out party!

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Turns out if you don't have a machinist friend, it's hard to get a machine shop to take on a small job like this.  How thick is a seal?  Mine looks to be 1/2" thick.  My friend who is helping me looked at the back and wondered if that ring thing is part of the seal or part of the timing cover?  If it is part of the timing cover then you couldn't pound it out the back.  Just asking to make sure.  

image.png.ddfa8aa5ed2673a7fb2b593f11ce43b2.png

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I'm kinda surprised the front lip is as narrow as it is .... you really do not have much surface to beat on.

If you were to take a blunt chisel or drift pin .... using the rear wall for your impact point .... I would think it would come out.

Installing with correct tool will be much cleaner.

 

 

 

IMG_20230413_153417.jpg.7e0c08367ee67614451d4ec0440d4059.jpg

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1 hour ago, MarcDeSoto said:

Turns out if you don't have a machinist friend, it's hard to get a machine shop to take on a small job like this.  How thick is a seal?  Mine looks to be 1/2" thick.  My friend who is helping me looked at the back and wondered if that ring thing is part of the seal or part of the timing cover?  If it is part of the timing cover then you couldn't pound it out the back.  Just asking to make sure.  

image.png.ddfa8aa5ed2673a7fb2b593f11ce43b2.png

 

Dodgeb4ya answered your questions in his post and photos of yesterday.....has your friend seen those photos???

 

Marc, we all want to see you figure this out but this thread has now pegged the incredulous meter......box up your cover and a new seal, send them to Dodgeb4ya and put this to bed.  ? 

 

 ?

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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Let me take a shot at explaining my redneck, Okie way of doing this.  Most have turned there nose up at using a chisel.  But a cape chisel is perfect for those.  Lay the cover down with the outside up, and supported from the back.  Piece of pipe, sockets, whatever.  Use the cape chisel from the front but on the inside of the seal.  Force it into or under the rubber so that it contacts the inside back of the seal itself.  Solid hit with a 16 oz hammer should unseat it in that spot move 90deg and repeat, and repeat, etc.

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It seems like you are trying to salvage this old seal by taking it out in one piece.  Cut a slot in the portion of the seal that protrudes from the front of the cover.  Take your strongest vise grips and clamp it beside this slot and cut another slot on the other side of the vise grip jaw. Now pry, tear, hammer the vise grip into the cover to rip the seal out from the inside of the cover.  The seal may have to come out in a few pieces but it will finally be outta there.  Regards 

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1 hour ago, kencombs said:

Let me take a shot at explaining my redneck, Okie way of doing this.  Most have turned there nose up at using a chisel.  But a cape chisel is perfect for those.  Lay the cover down with the outside up, and supported from the back.  Piece of pipe, sockets, whatever.  Use the cape chisel from the front but on the inside of the seal.  Force it into or under the rubber so that it contacts the inside back of the seal itself.  Solid hit with a 16 oz hammer should unseat it in that spot move 90deg and repeat, and repeat, etc.

Now that sounds good to me!

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4 hours ago, squirebill said:

It seems like you are trying to salvage this old seal by taking it out in one piece.  Cut a slot in the portion of the seal that protrudes from the front of the cover.  Take your strongest vise grips and clamp it beside this slot and cut another slot on the other side of the vise grip jaw. Now pry, tear, hammer the vise grip into the cover to rip the seal out from the inside of the cover.  The seal may have to come out in a few pieces but it will finally be outta there.  Regards 

I may try  this method too.  My arbor press arrives tomorrow too.  

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When using blow hammers, guides, etc. installing a new seal without tweaking the cover, is going to be way harder than removing the old seal.  

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Best way is to press the seals in... with a properly supported chain case cover.

My favorite.

 

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Finally Victory!  We got the old seal out by using a chisel and hammer to knock the outside lip in until we were able to knock it out with the installer disc.  No my question is how do I install this big, oversized felt gasket in.  It's too big.  Does it need to be trimmed?  

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by MarcDeSoto
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