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vintage6t

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Everything posted by vintage6t

  1. Hartford, CT Craigslist https://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/d/ellington-1937-and-1938-plymouth/7561001327.html
  2. Fastenal also does third party shipping via thier logistics operation. I've shipped engines and other very large items through them in the past. Last time was 3 or 4 years ago and the price was still reasonable then. Drop off at your nearest branch and pickup at the nearest destination branch.
  3. Welcome. Very nice Barracuda. I used to be heavily into 64/65 Mopar A bodies as well. It's been about 15 years since I've owned one though. Funny back then the holy grail was a decent Barracuda grill. Had one on my 273/4 speed 65 Valiant convertible. Looked great on that car. I see your using a a Vailant grill on your Barracuda, also a nice look. I still have a manual column and steering wheel in my parts bin for use someday. Even this past summer, I used up a couple of saved but rusted at the wheel wells Barracuda quarter panels to make patches for my nephew's 69 GMC pickup. That old metal sure is nice to work with. Cuts, bends and welds easily.
  4. No first hand experience, but I've heard that these type of kits tend to leak around the cover gasket. Probably because the MC's fluid reservoir wasn't designed to be filled to the top as would happen with a remote reservoir plumbed in.
  5. A better test of gauge accuracy would be to remove the sensor bulb from the engine and put it in boiling water. Gauge should read around 212 F. Btw - there can be a coolant temp difference between where the sensor is located in the engine and the radiator where you put your thermometer. 15 to 20 degrees? Maybe.
  6. Looks like the federal government (FEMA) also pre-staged a large amount of recovery help as well. Lessons learned from past disasters. FEMA pre-positioning preparations
  7. Stamped into the left frame rail where it "kicks up" at the rear wheel to go around the axle. If you can find it should match the engine #.
  8. I have a 6v in my 41 plymouth from Batteries plus as well. It's at least 2 years old. When I bought it, it seemed like a decent battery at a decent price. So far so good. Btw- if you buy it from Batteries plus, order online for 10% off and pick it up at your local store same day.
  9. It won't give you the absolute capacity but you can measure the physical dimensions (l*h*d) of each core to get the relative difference in the capacity of the two cores in %.
  10. I've had good luck sealing leaks around my RV window frames and other areas with Lexel sealer. First learned about it from an RV forum. https://www.amazon.com/Sashco-13013-2-Sealants-Adhesive-5-Ounce/dp/B0012DIUYW
  11. If the engine sat for a long time you could have a few sticky valves. The simplest thing you can do is add some marvel mystery oil to the crankcase and then run the engine for a while to see if things quite down. Also cylinder compression is relative to each other. Don't worry too much about the absolute reading unless it's way out of the acceptable range. Test with plugs out and throttle open. You don't want more than a 10% variance across all.
  12. About 10 years ago, I ran a Rapidair system in my shop with quick connect outlets throughout. I'm very happy with it, it's a nice safe easy to install system.
  13. I think boosters are designed to work at a minimum of 15" of vacuum. Unless the engine has a more radical cam, your 20-21 is typical. I agree that the master bore size can be decreased if the pedal is too hard. Unfortunately I won't know how it works for some time b/c it's a project car with much more to do until it's drivable again.
  14. Thanks for all the info, it's very helpful. I measured my 50 Desoto manual pedal and got 10" long side and 1.49 short, so a 6.7 ratio. I think where to measure is obvious but I can verify apples to apples if you can provide your short and long measuring points. So here's where I think I stand at least on paper. Disk brakes need 1000 lbs at the wheels. I'm using only a 7" booster. That is a very marginal size in terms of boost and to be honest it was selected really for space considerations more than anything. I'm using a 1-1/8 dual disk brake master cylinder. I bought the master some time ago but if I remember correctly that was the closest size to the original metric master cylinder on the Explorer that the 8.8 rear came out of. Either that or I had determined that was just the proper size master for disks in general. I really don't remember. Regardless 7" booster with 1-1/8 master combo with a 7:1 pedal ratio will give 1059 lbs at the wheels. See the attached chart. That's 150 lbs less than a 8" booster. Given that my pedal ratio is lower than 7:1 at 6.7:1, I get 1013 lbs to the wheels. That should be right in the serviceable range.
  15. Good point. Admittedly it's an experiment and it will have to be assembled to see. I'd say first of all a 7" booster isn't vey big, many people say they just give marginal boost so it may be fine. If not the choices are 1. Move down to a 6" booster. 2. Shorten the brake pedal itself, 3. Drop the booster and move to a manual master, this would only require a new set of mounting holes in the current booster plate and a little replumbing of brake lines.
  16. It would appear that way, but no. The pin is in the exact original location in the master boss. The clutch pedal never was part of this assembly. The clutch on this car has its own mount of the outside of the frame. This brake assembly mounts on the inside of the frame and the brake pedal and pin sit exactly as original. What has changed is that the original push rod mounted directly to the small boss at the bottom left of the pedal and ran straight through the master. I changed that to use a long pin through the original brake pedal hole and then offset through the booster rod.
  17. The entire assembly bolted together. One thing I knew from building the original wood pattern was to clear the floor pan the entire assembly has to be dropped 5/8". Had a built everything from scratch, I could have build that into the bracket. Since, I can't move the exiting mounting holes on the old master by 5/8", I'm going to have to move the original mounting bracket on the frame down 5/8" instead. This will drop the brake pedal down by that amount as well but that will be fine.
  18. Next was to mount the booster plate to the sectioned master. I used the original push rod/cylinder hole in the old master as one mounting point. The other mounting point is a tab welded to the booster plate that is bolted to the top of the master via new drilled and tapped hole in the top of the master.
  19. One of the worries of creating a bracket from scratch was the mounting boss to hold the shaft that the pedal rides on. It needs to be strong and to capture the shaft tightly. After thinking about this for a while I decided I could simplify the entire thing by trying to use the boss from the old master cylinder. To do that I first sectioned the old master to hold the mounting plate for the booster. I kept all the original mounting holes intact, so it would bolt right up to the frame as the original.
  20. I'm in the middle of a project to re-power my 50 Desoto with a Mopar 383 B Block/727 Trans combo. The upgrades include four wheel disk brakes. I'm using an explore 8.8 disk rear outback. This is going to be a nice cruiser, not a race car but being a big heavy car I thought having power brakes would be a nice upgrade as well. I'm posting this thread as a twist on using the existing single chamber master cylinder as a basis for a dual chamber upgrade. Similar to Sam Buchanan's thread on mounting a Wilwood dual master but In this case for a 7" power booster and GM style master cylinder. My goal was to use the original brake pedal and keep the master under the floor. I originally was just going to make a complete pedal and booster bracket from scratch. The master cylinder of course mounts on the back of the booster, so the only consideration there is having enough space/length under the floor to mount pedal, boost, and master. I started by making a bracket out of wood to make sure of fit, including re-use of the original cylinder mounting holes on the frame.
  21. This is a pretty widely know solution that's been posted here and on other forums over the years.
  22. Not sure of the original configuration, but I'd put the fuel filter before the fuel pump inlet and just a straight line from fuel pump outlet to carb. That will keep debris out of the fuel pump.
  23. https://albany.craigslist.org/cto/d/ballston-spa-1950-chrysler-town-and/7493550761.html
  24. Oh too bad! A couple of model years later and I could hook you up with a 50 Desoto grill.
  25. As was mentioned prior, it's a tradeoff happiness vs. money. I was in a similar situation about 3 years ago. I had a very well paying high level corporate job, I woke up miserable and stressed to the max every morning. I never had any money worries though. I'm not an extravagant person but even if I was I could afford pretty much whatever I wanted without any worry. Being that I was within 6 or 7 years from retirement, I decided that life was way too short to be miserable everyday, so I left my job to start my own business. Going back to my roots and doing what I love. My goal was to make enough money to pay the bills, keep things low key, and most important to control my own time. Of course there is a tradeoff. Do I worry about paying the bills when I never had to before? Yup. Am I happier? A lot! I find the stress worrying about getting business and paying the bills to be a lot less than hating your job and not controlling your life. I find the money thing always seems to work out one way or another. I will admit, I try to live more frugally than I used too but in general that doesn't make much difference in my happiness. The advice to negotiate your pay up is good. There is currently a shortage of workers so I think that's a real possibility. One thing though, if you decide to leave your current job, be committed to leaving. Don't be enticed to stay with a promise of more pay. More money is not going to make the work any more enjoyable and eventually they will get the difference back out of you, Lastly, if you do take a lower paying job, make sure you are really going to be happier doing it. Also think about if there is any side gig you might also enjoy doing that will help make up the difference in pay.
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