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vintage6t

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About vintage6t

  • Rank
    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

Profile Information

  • Location
    CT
  • My Project Cars
    50 Desoto Convertible, 41 Plymouth Convertible

Converted

  • Location
    CT
  • Interests
    Classic cars

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990 profile views
  1. I've found this Cal Van flaring tool to be a really nice compromise between a high-end high-tool and a cheapo clamp type. I've done a few complete brake systems top to bottom with mine and It works consistently well. https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Van-Tools-164-Line-Flaring/dp/B007QV50RE
  2. Or use brake fluid for a lubricant.
  3. I was trying to picture what they look like so I googled them. These came up as part of a larger set. If correct to me they look like the rubber pedal seals used on mopar cars of the same vintage and earlier. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pedal-Draft-Seal-Set-for-1954-1956-Dodge-Trucks/321107524434?redirect=mobile If not correct then if you post a drawing with dimensions I'd be willing to give 3D printing a set a go. They will be hard plastic though so not sure how well the will seal. Also the material will be PLA which has a relatively low melting point, so they may be prone to warping due to engine/transmisson heat.
  4. Spray some penetrating oil between the wheel hub and shaft then try a couple of good 'taps' with a 5lb sledge.
  5. Saw this rebuilt one for sale on the HAMB the other day. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/carter-one-barrel-carb-ball-ball-chrysler-rebuilt.1164058/
  6. My 50 Desoto convertible has the same on the seats ( two tone brown Tolex with white vinyl), door panels and other trim. Dash is painted though.
  7. Burning oil would cause blue smoke. White smoke is typically coolant being burned. Coolant leaking into to cylinders could be be a warped or cracked head, bad head gasket, cracked block and so on. Maybe start by checking the oil for signs of coolant such as a milky appearance. Also try re-tourqing the head to spec and see if that helps at all. A compression test as mentioned above will also be a helpful diagnostic.
  8. Here's a pic of the wiring diagram. Hope it's big enough read!
  9. On the HAMB https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/1163145/
  10. Interesting to see they are all mechanical and no hydraulics. Now a days they are called linear actuators. You can probably easily find modern 12 volt linear actuators with the same stroke, so that might be an option for you. Additionally the motors are probably wired in parallel from the factory so another option to try might be to wire the two motors in series. Given they are the same motor each will drop 1/2 of 12 volts or 6 volts. That means they will run at the original speed. The drawback is more current draw and if one motor stops working due to an electrical open, the other one won't run either.
  11. Similarly, once you have a 3d model you can take the output to a CNC machine shop and have them machined from billet aluminum. Then either polish or have plated. For the rubber bumpers check out RTV Urethane (http://www.uscomposites.com/moldmaking.html). Make a simple mold and pour it in. I used Urethane to recast a set of unavailable motor mounts once with great success.
  12. If you get them with aluminum necks like these then you can heat the necks to soften them and then "bend" them in or out as needed to get a little more custom fit in terms of how they function on your car. That's what I did on my old 34 Hudson.
  13. One thing not mentioned but shown in Dodgeb4ys' post above is the use of a fuel filter. A very good idea and I always use one myself. Prior to that I've had carbs that I just rebuilt get clogged from even a very little dirt that may be in the temporary tank.
  14. The last machine shop I used was the same. 6+ months to do a head. Before that almost a year to check and sleeve a block. I think the problem is that a job like that is absolutely the lowest priority and not a bread and butter money maker. Late model work and fleet customers with vehicles that are down due to engine failures take daily priority. Either keep on them weekly or ask around to find a shop with faster turn around.
  15. I think you need to research and see what another car that is more road ready and "finished" will cost. Compare that cost with having the one you already have repaired to a similar level. I don't know the answer but having the info will help you decide if you may want to keep what you have or sell. As far as parting it out, part it out to yourself first. What I mean by that is if you do buy another car and things like the trim on the one you already have is better, then swap in your better parts to the new car first and then sell the your car with the swapped out parts. Lastly parting out a car is a lot of work, time and effort, even requires mechanical skill you say you don't have. I'd make a clean break and sell the complete car. You possibly may make less than parting it out but time is money.
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