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  • My Project Cars
    50 Desoto Convertible, 41 Plymouth Convertible


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    Classic cars

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  1. A better test of gauge accuracy would be to remove the sensor bulb from the engine and put it in boiling water. Gauge should read around 212 F. Btw - there can be a coolant temp difference between where the sensor is located in the engine and the radiator where you put your thermometer. 15 to 20 degrees? Maybe.
  2. Looks like the federal government (FEMA) also pre-staged a large amount of recovery help as well. Lessons learned from past disasters. FEMA pre-positioning preparations
  3. Stamped into the left frame rail where it "kicks up" at the rear wheel to go around the axle. If you can find it should match the engine #.
  4. I have a 6v in my 41 plymouth from Batteries plus as well. It's at least 2 years old. When I bought it, it seemed like a decent battery at a decent price. So far so good. Btw- if you buy it from Batteries plus, order online for 10% off and pick it up at your local store same day.
  5. It won't give you the absolute capacity but you can measure the physical dimensions (l*h*d) of each core to get the relative difference in the capacity of the two cores in %.
  6. I've had good luck sealing leaks around my RV window frames and other areas with Lexel sealer. First learned about it from an RV forum. https://www.amazon.com/Sashco-13013-2-Sealants-Adhesive-5-Ounce/dp/B0012DIUYW
  7. If the engine sat for a long time you could have a few sticky valves. The simplest thing you can do is add some marvel mystery oil to the crankcase and then run the engine for a while to see if things quite down. Also cylinder compression is relative to each other. Don't worry too much about the absolute reading unless it's way out of the acceptable range. Test with plugs out and throttle open. You don't want more than a 10% variance across all.
  8. About 10 years ago, I ran a Rapidair system in my shop with quick connect outlets throughout. I'm very happy with it, it's a nice safe easy to install system.
  9. I think boosters are designed to work at a minimum of 15" of vacuum. Unless the engine has a more radical cam, your 20-21 is typical. I agree that the master bore size can be decreased if the pedal is too hard. Unfortunately I won't know how it works for some time b/c it's a project car with much more to do until it's drivable again.
  10. Thanks for all the info, it's very helpful. I measured my 50 Desoto manual pedal and got 10" long side and 1.49 short, so a 6.7 ratio. I think where to measure is obvious but I can verify apples to apples if you can provide your short and long measuring points. So here's where I think I stand at least on paper. Disk brakes need 1000 lbs at the wheels. I'm using only a 7" booster. That is a very marginal size in terms of boost and to be honest it was selected really for space considerations more than anything. I'm using a 1-1/8 dual disk brake master cylinder. I bought the master some time ago but if I remember correctly that was the closest size to the original metric master cylinder on the Explorer that the 8.8 rear came out of. Either that or I had determined that was just the proper size master for disks in general. I really don't remember. Regardless 7" booster with 1-1/8 master combo with a 7:1 pedal ratio will give 1059 lbs at the wheels. See the attached chart. That's 150 lbs less than a 8" booster. Given that my pedal ratio is lower than 7:1 at 6.7:1, I get 1013 lbs to the wheels. That should be right in the serviceable range.
  11. Good point. Admittedly it's an experiment and it will have to be assembled to see. I'd say first of all a 7" booster isn't vey big, many people say they just give marginal boost so it may be fine. If not the choices are 1. Move down to a 6" booster. 2. Shorten the brake pedal itself, 3. Drop the booster and move to a manual master, this would only require a new set of mounting holes in the current booster plate and a little replumbing of brake lines.
  12. It would appear that way, but no. The pin is in the exact original location in the master boss. The clutch pedal never was part of this assembly. The clutch on this car has its own mount of the outside of the frame. This brake assembly mounts on the inside of the frame and the brake pedal and pin sit exactly as original. What has changed is that the original push rod mounted directly to the small boss at the bottom left of the pedal and ran straight through the master. I changed that to use a long pin through the original brake pedal hole and then offset through the booster rod.
  13. The entire assembly bolted together. One thing I knew from building the original wood pattern was to clear the floor pan the entire assembly has to be dropped 5/8". Had a built everything from scratch, I could have build that into the bracket. Since, I can't move the exiting mounting holes on the old master by 5/8", I'm going to have to move the original mounting bracket on the frame down 5/8" instead. This will drop the brake pedal down by that amount as well but that will be fine.
  14. Next was to mount the booster plate to the sectioned master. I used the original push rod/cylinder hole in the old master as one mounting point. The other mounting point is a tab welded to the booster plate that is bolted to the top of the master via new drilled and tapped hole in the top of the master.
  15. One of the worries of creating a bracket from scratch was the mounting boss to hold the shaft that the pedal rides on. It needs to be strong and to capture the shaft tightly. After thinking about this for a while I decided I could simplify the entire thing by trying to use the boss from the old master cylinder. To do that I first sectioned the old master to hold the mounting plate for the booster. I kept all the original mounting holes intact, so it would bolt right up to the frame as the original.
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