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squirebill

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Everything posted by squirebill

  1. Coming in late on this post. In my Plymouth Passenger Car Parts List, Issued June 1949....Part Type Code 6-52-11 BEARING,Clutch Torque Shaft Pivot calls out part number 635 884 and 4 used per car. I'm familiar with this part on my '49 Plymouth wagon. Two of them formed the socket for the ball on each end of the clutch torque shaft. They were some sort of metal alloy. Looks like Bernbaum's offering is some sort of plastic. Regards
  2. I'm new to this post. Bingster, what engine are you working on? If it is a Mopar flathead 6, the firing order is 1,5,3,6,2,4, going in a clockwise direction looking at the distributer rotor. The firing order given by Bulldog above is 1, 5, 2, 4, 3, 6. This might work for some engine but it is not the correct firing order for a Mopar flat head 6. Regards.
  3. Do you have an idea of which part is actually worn, the shaft or the stop plate bore? Do you have the spec. for the shaft diameter or the cam stop plate bore? I don't but was thinking maybe the ID of the stop plate bore could be knurled and reamed (like done to valve guides) to make a tighter fit on the shaft.... OR....the shaft could be built up with braze/ silver solder and turned to a larger diameter to make a tighter fit in the stop plate bore. Just a thought. Regards.
  4. Three center punch marks on the OD of the bushing about 120* apart might give it more of an "interference" fit.
  5. To clarify: rear wheels of B1B truck were not rolling/moving. They were sitting on wheel roller dollies to get winched onto the flat bed. When delivered the bed was tilted and the roller dollies rolled until they were on the ground then the tow truck was driven from under the B1B. Transmission was seized and needed a rebuild. Gears were rusted together.
  6. Years back I sent my '49 B1B to the body shop to have the 4 cab corners repaired. When they returned the truck (months later) they used a flat bed tow truck because the engine was "seized". They had soaked the cylinders with ATF, Marvel lube, etc with no luck. I removed the drive shaft and transmission. Engine spun OK. Turns out trans was seized not the engine.
  7. Hydraulic systems take the path of least resistance. In a multiple cylinder system the cylinder with the lightest load will actuate first. That being said, are your return springs the same? If they are different sizes or one is stretched and they don't have equal tension they will not act in unison.
  8. It seems like you are trying to salvage this old seal by taking it out in one piece. Cut a slot in the portion of the seal that protrudes from the front of the cover. Take your strongest vise grips and clamp it beside this slot and cut another slot on the other side of the vise grip jaw. Now pry, tear, hammer the vise grip into the cover to rip the seal out from the inside of the cover. The seal may have to come out in a few pieces but it will finally be outta there. Regards
  9. Hadn't seen this video. Watched it and during the "Shakedown " video started recognizing streets in the neighborhood I grew up in. The intersection where the railroad tracks cross the trolley tracks where he says there is an accident is 6th and Main in Darby, Pa. I crossed that intersection every day going to high school. Small world . Think I may try to contact him.
  10. So my method of hot wire is to run a wire from the neg. battery terminal to the input (negative) terminal of the coil. Then a heavy jumper across the heavy terminals of the starter solenoid to start the car. OR a jumper wire from the neg. battery terminal to the small input terminal of the starter solenoid. The connections to the starter solenoid are only connected until the starter activates and the engine is running, then they are disconnected. The wire to the coil is required to keep the ignition circuit active and the engine running. This jumper would have to be disconnected to stop the engine. If you leave this jumper connected because the engine stopped for some reason and the points happen to be closed then yes, you have a closed circuit from the battery through the coil and through the points to ground and you can drain the battery and maybe damage the coil and points. In my jumper wire kit I have a household light switch wired into the jumper wire for the coil jumper wire and a momentary push button switch on my jumper for the starter solenoid. I turn the ignition circuit on with the household switch to the ON position and press the push button switch to activate the starter and release when the engine is running. When I want to stop the engine, I flip the household switch to the OFF position.
  11. That should only happen if the ignition switch is left in the "On" position.
  12. It's hurting my head too. From reading the manual paragraph associated with this picture ( Figure 25) it says "Continue rotating the crankshaft until the No. 6 intake valve tappet just contacts the valve stem. This tells me that no.6 piston is at TDC but at the end of the exhaust and beginning of the intake stroke. This same crank and camshaft position would be TDC for the no.1 piston at the end of the compression and beginning of the power stroke and when the no.1 spark plug should "fire". Bottom line, with the timing marks aligned as in fig. 25 both no. 6 and no.1 pistons are at TDC but no. 1 is at top of compression stroke and ready for spark and no.6 is at the start of the intake stroke. Regardless of how the oil pump and distributor is installed the rotor should point to the dist. cap tower that goes to the no.1 spark plug.
  13. I had a date with a girl named Margaret. She had a "peg" leg. We went dancing. I spun her the wrong way and she got taller.
  14. What Sam Buchanan said. Necessity is the mother of invention.
  15. The above regulator would give me pause. On the front plate it says "NEG". This would indicate to me it is for a negative ground system. My memory tells me all Chevy cars were negative ground. It supposedly came off a '53 Chevy. I'm assuming your Plymouth is "POS" ground. Electricity baffles me....not sure this regulator will work on a "POS" ground system. Regards.
  16. My shop manual has 5 pages with information about the generator regulator. Do you have a shop manual? If my memory serves me correctly I had a similar problem to yours. I had added a voltmeter to my dash guages and it read a little over 6 volts with engine running and nothing electrical on. Based on what I could decypher from the manual, I pulled the cover on the regulator and increased the spring tension on the center coil. Now have voltmeter reading of about 7.5 volts.
  17. Looking at the photos and seeing the spark plug hole directly above one of the valves ...I'm guessing the ground electrode hanging into the combustion chamber has been taken into consideration.
  18. My Plymouth Service Manual that covers 1946 to 1954 in the Engine Data and Specifications Chart gives a valve lift of 3/8 inch. for all models P-15 to P-25 engines. (217.8 cu.in. piston displacement )
  19. The rusty connection of the blue wire to the generator would give me concern. High resistance gives high heat. Those two studs/screws coming out of the generator are to be insulated from the body of the generator. I would remove both wires from the generator and check to make sure there is no continuity between the screws/studs and the body of the generator. If there is continuity there are insulating washers and bushings on these studs that may have broken down and need repair or replacement.
  20. Years back, maybe 10 or so, I had luck getting a cluster gear for my '49 B1B truck from Northwest Transmission Parts, Winchester, Ohio. Easy to work with and reasonable. I was able to "trade in" my old part towards the replacement.
  21. 7*F here this morning. Reminds me as a kid there was a gentleman in the neighborhood who had a late 40s Pontiac with a flathead straight 8 in it. On winter days before he started his car he would light off some BBQ charcoal in a lid of a metal trash can and slide it under the oil pan of the car. Go in the house for a while and then start the car. Even as a kid, never seemed very safe to me. Primitive pre-heater. Necessity is the mother of invention. Regards to all. Merry Christmas.
  22. I have the proper tool now but back in the day (say 50 years ago) did the vise grip and screwdriver routine. Regards.
  23. I must take exception to the response from joecozzie above. My Plymouth Service Manual that covers 1946 to 1954 car models clearly shows the distributor rotor goes in the clockwise direction. Also the drawing given by joecozzie shows the #1 position on the distributor at 9 o'clock. The published position for the flat head 6 is at the 7 o'clock position.
  24. Spark plugs are numbered 1,2,3,4,5,6, going from the front of the engine at the radiator to the rear of the engine at the firewall. The firing order of the engine is 1,5,3,6,2,4. To find #1 TDC, I remove the number 1 sparkplug and put a crumpled piece of tissue paper in the spark plug well. Bump crank the engine and when the paper is blown out of the well the number 1 piston is on the compression stroke. Bring the timing mark on the pulley to align with the pointer on the timing case cover.
  25. I've had water collect in the spark plug wells of both the Plymouth and truck. Started the engine and saw the bubbles... figured it was just from the water boiling from the heat of the head. Leaking spark plug washers makes me wonder why they would hold water in the first place. If they were leaking, seems the water would leak past the washer and into the cylinder. As far as reusing them, if the spark plug was good enough to reuse, then I reuse the washer. Only time washers were replaced was when they came with a new spark plug. Regards to all.
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