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Increasingly Difficult To Find Manual 6V Battery Chargers


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Posted
9 hours ago, Eneto-55 said:

Yeah, I figured it wouldn't be simple to explain, and so I was just wondering what simple tests I could do to identify what component is bad.  I did open it up and I don't see anything that looks burned, no smell.  (I build & repair computers, so I am familiar with burned smells.  Of course most of the time with motherboards, for instance, there is no visibly burned components.  Just a couple where a capacitor top is bulging, and one where part of the board had actually been in flames.)

 

Like, should the main coil show continuity?  (I reckon I can open up the one my son-in-law got for me from his dad, and compare results.  It's also an old one, non-electronic.  I didn't want one of those, because I've read/heard that if a battery is pretty low, it won't put out a charge.)

 

there are two sides to the transformer.  Input, which should read continuity to each other, and output which should read continuity to each other.  there should be no continuity between the input and output though.  There might be a couple of unused taps in the input or output side that would be used in a different voltage set up.  Just measure the taps used.

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Posted

I have a Schumacher SC1200A that I got at one of the national parts retailers. It is no longer available but the SC1301 is available and it appears to be very similar to the 1200A. I think I paid about $60 for it about 5 or 6 years ago. It works fine for all of my needs (51 Plymouth, two daily drivers, camping trailer, lawn tractor, and motorcycle).

Posted

My old "Die Hard" 6/12v charger gave up and you know that usually happens when you need it. HF is not far but they only had smart charger models and I picked up this one after reading some good reviews on it. It is a "high freq" model with settings for wet, AGM and Gel batteries. It was on sale cheap and got me going.

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As Young Ed mentioned Facebook marketplace is easy enough to use just click the local button so I can pick-up and see it before I buy. I found an old school not so smart model on Facebook Marketplace for $12 locally, 10amp and no shut-off so It has to be monitored closely during use. I check volts with a fluke meter when charging. 

 

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Posted

I have three old (25 year old)  transformer type..no circuit board/electronic type chargers with real steel enclosure cases.

No plastic electronic import chargers for me..

These sometimes charge...sometimes don't...yet the little LED green light is telling you the battery is fully charged....but really only half charged.?

Garage sales, swap meets and craigslist are a few of the ways to find the good old school high quality chargers.

 

 

 

 

Posted

Nobody interested in building their own 6 volt chargers using a generator, voltatage regulator,electric motor,and fan belt?

 

Pretty fool proof if you pick a pulley that runs it at a reasonable RPM.

 

 

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, knuckleharley said:

Nobody interested in building their own 6 volt chargers using a generator, voltatage regulator,electric motor,and fan belt?

 

Pretty fool proof if you pick a pulley that runs it at a reasonable RPM.

 

 

 

Why would I expect that rig to be any more reliable than the archaic generator/regulator in our cars??  ?

 

There's a good reason why my P15 has an alternator.  

Edited by Sam Buchanan
Posted (edited)

I have a Schumacher that I bought from O'Reilly auto parts about 8 years ago. I don't think that same one is carried anymore but they have others. 

Edited by CoronetGuy
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Posted

Dang Keith, congratulations on the new charger... that beast looks like it will do the trick. As for me, I've had so so luck with chargers.  I got my most recent one from Tractor Supply.  It's a Schumacher and works fine.  That said, it's the third one I've bought in the past 10 years.  I think the next one I buy (assuming my current one takes a crap) will be an old school POS from FB Marketplace.  There's something cool about buying an second hand item that someone has no more use for.  

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Posted
13 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

Why would I expect that rig to be any more reliable than the archaic generator/regulator in our cars??  ?

 

There's a good reason why my P15 has an alternator.  

I dunno. Why would you expect a factory generator and voltage regulator from a 50's car to be unreliable? I occasionaly had to replace generator brushes or adjust or even replace a voltage regulator,but it was rare.

Posted

I agree with all the posts to look for a used 6V charger on Facebook, Craigslist, swap meets, garages sales etc. I have been watching all of those places for the past year or so. I've had no luck finding what I want. For me, it must have a manual charge option. Must not be digital type. Must be bench top model. Over a year later, I gave up the search and ordered the new one.

Posted (edited)

This came up today. 2 hr drive away. Pretty big! $80

 

Screen Shot 2022-02-24 at 7.09.12 PM.png

Edited by keithb7
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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I'm happy with the 6 Volt, 2 amp trickle charger I got the other day.  I plug it in every time I come back from a cruise.

I just did that today, then drove back home and then remembered that I hadn't taken the caps off the battery.  So I knew I'd never get to sleep thinking about all the bad scenarios.

My question is, was it a waisted trip to drive back to my shop and pull the caps off? 

The caps have built in vents so with only 2 amps going in, would those vents be enough?

Posted

At two amps...no worry.

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Posted
3 hours ago, harmony said:

I'm happy with the 6 Volt, 2 amp trickle charger I got the other day.  I plug it in every time I come back from a cruise.

I just did that today, then drove back home and then remembered that I hadn't taken the caps off the battery.  So I knew I'd never get to sleep thinking about all the bad scenarios.

My question is, was it a waisted trip to drive back to my shop and pull the caps off? 

The caps have built in vents so with only 2 amps going in, would those vents be enough?


If it is a true trickle charger it will only output 2a with a low battery. Once a good state of charge is returned to the battery the charger will transition to “trickle” mode which is a maintenance charge of just a few milliamperes. The battery will not overcharge regardless of how long the charger is connected.

 

So yes, it was an unnecessary return to your shop. But I’ve used poorer excuses than that to go to the shop.  ?

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, Young Ed said:

Now why do you charge after every drive??

 

Excellent question. If the battery is healthy, the charging system is working as it should, there is no parasitic drain, and the car is driven occasionally, there should be no need to use a charger. If a charger is required, it is a bandaid that is covering up a problem in the electrical system.

Edited by Sam Buchanan
Posted
22 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

it is a bandaid that is covering up a problem in the electrical system.

 

That bandaid my be covering up the fact that it's not driven often enough, lol.  DRIVE MORE!

 

Might also be a belt and suspenders thing, OP doesn't want to deal with a flat battery when he's there to drive it so just in case it gets hooked up.

Posted

The old girl was up on jack stands for 5 months while I checked off a large list of things to do.  I do have a 6 volt 15 amp, charger that I connected periodically over the 5 months.  Then I broke down and bought this trickle charger.  I know I know, I should have bought it 5 months ago.  

I bought it a few days ago, so I'm just a kid with a new toy basically.  I'm sure the novelty will wear off soon and become a pain in the ass since spring has arrived here and I'll probably out driving her about 6 days a week, or more.  ( looking for my hub cap)  I was curious to see how long it would take to bring the charger back to a state of full charge after an hour or so outing.  Which is about maybe 2 minutes or less. 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

The prices for department store branded "vintage" battery chargers over on ebay are pretty obnoxious, and as noted, new ones for 6v are non-existent. Somehow, I stumbled onto one of these beasts...

20220524_145431[1]

Eico Low Ripple Battery Eliminator and Charger, Model 1060. Keep your eyes peeled for one of these, they're pretty undesirable and cheap. I'm going to have to recap it, replace wires, etc., but it's a dead simple device, built like a tank, should be good to go. If not, I can use it as a jack stand.

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  • 2 years later...
Posted (edited)

I thought that I had asked for input on the subject of battery tenders here on the forum, but if I did, then I cannot find that thread or post.

 

So I'll just post my question in this thread. I had been under the impression that a battery tender would not heat up a battery, then it would automatically cycle off and on to avoid that. I just purchased one, a Battery Tender 3 AMP Charger & Maintainer 12V & 6V – Automatic #022-0202-COS.  Left in connected to a used battery that takes a charge, but doesn't hold it really well.  Pulled it out of our 2019 Honda CRV some months ago, and have been charging it off and on with an old style (non electronic) battery charger, normally on the 2 amp setting. I think I left it connected on the Battery Tender since yesterday afternoon, but this morning it was quite hot. Is that an indication that the battery is too far gone to trip the Battery Tender over to 'Charged"?

Edited by Eneto-55
Posted

a lead acid battery that does not hold a charge without any load connected is a lead acid battery with both feet in the grave...battery tenders do well on batteries that are in good condition and do not have internal faults.

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