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Veemoney

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Everything posted by Veemoney

  1. I'm not sure if you purchased the whole drum to drum rear end or just the center section. I purchased a drum to drum rear end with the numbers 1115941-7 on the center section that was out of a 1948 plymouth sedan for my truck. I just used the center section that I swapped into my truck to get better highway gearing. Based on the numbers I would say you have a mopar rear end from the correct timeframe. You can find out what gear ratio you have by locating the stamped numbers as shown in the pictures attached. The car rear end I purchased had the leaf spring mounts on the bottom though and my truck has the mounts on the top of the axle so be aware if you intend to use the whole rear end that you may need to relocate them if they don't match your car set-up.
  2. I have Goodyear Wrangler SRAs on my 47WC original truck rims with no tubes and no issues. Been running this set for a few years. Radials really make a big difference on the handling of the truck compared to the bias ply tires.
  3. Nice find and condition with good running gear. Should be a pleasure to cruise down the road in.
  4. Should clean up, don't throw in the towel yet
  5. I have this old Craftsman toolbox that mounts to a wall. Has images inside the cabinet to help identify where certain tools go for those who have trouble figuring things out.
  6. My 47WC fuel gauge has not worked since I had it so I'm checking it out. This and some other posts have helped a lot. Especially those pages attached from the manual explaining the thermostatic fuel gauge system which is what I have. Not sure if anyone found the correct replacement sender for the thermostatic gauge or a work-a-round for a newer sending unit. I pulled my sender apart and cleaned it up and adjusted the wiper so it is working with the gauge on the shop bench. Working now despite the resistor being warped and having a few windings broke. I posted a few pictures of my sender insides for anyone curious on the insides. Any new info on replacement senders for the thermostatic fuel gauge system or possibly the winding portion? ? Thanks.
  7. I was working under the dash on the gauges today in my 47 WC. Pulled the bottom seat cushion and just enough room to get my head by the gas pedal and 4 speed with my backside outside the cab worked to give me access to the fuel gauge. Did have to make sure I had my tools placed where I could grab them and work around the pedals. Not bad but I am wide in the shoulders, so I expected worse.
  8. This motor pulling brings back memories of my teen years and then some more recent activities. I have an appreciation for laying in the dirt and working under a car on blocks, logs or whatever is worthy and available. It is both challenging and rewarding although now I would also consider if there may be a neighbor or friend known in the area with a front end loader on their tractor or skidsteer willing to help doing the pick using the rigging off the bucket. Even if there is no machinery Just an extra set of hands and eyes not to mention support in case something unexpected happens during the lift is always a good safety practice.
  9. Sounds like you had a rubber cup type seal and that is what you will need to replace like for like. The one you show in the picture fits around a brake piston with a groove.
  10. Wagon is looking good, some repairs and $30 of gas gets you to the show on time👍.
  11. Enjoyed reading your post and progress so far is looking good. Beautiful car that deserves the extra HP
  12. Here is one built from a torch bottle cart that followed me home. I cut it down and added a platform for the welder. Has 2 small wheels in the front so it rolls around the shop nice as it sits, or I can tilt it back if I need to.
  13. Can't ever seem to get them to pick-up the broom.
  14. Good to plan ahead. If you don't have one get a mixing cup to measure and mix the paint components accurately. The cups are cheap and many places include them also with the paint purchase. Thanks for the reminder, I have a 78 FXE that I need to paint and put back together.
  15. If that is the same car looks like someone has taken good care of it from just that picture.
  16. I found they are usually marked in one or both of these spots with this style number stamp. First pic is the top and second is looking from the bottom.
  17. Back in the day of these trucks maybe cruise was a usable option but not so much now, be nice to find an old owners or sales brochure that calls out the intention. I thought it could be useful also if using the hand crank to start or adjusting RPM of the PTO as others mentioned. My farthest left of the 5 locations is a switch controlling an under the hood courtesy light that is mounted to the firewall. Not sure if it was original equipment.
  18. Ed mine has 5 as well with key in the middle. Just looks like they didn't drill for the 5th location but the room is there and that would give it 5 with the key in the middle. I just pulled the picture from a manual an suspect now it may be military model based on the panel light knob and extra throttle cable. My truck has the extra throttle located as 1 of the 5 locations right of the key that is centered.
  19. Found this pic in a manual I picked up. Shows the lower section off to the right of the main gauge panel. This is close to how my truck is set-up in that area.
  20. Just one comment. When testing make sure you mix the paint with any reducer & activator as applicable for the paint you are using. If not, you can't be sure you won't have a bad reaction without those solvents and hardeners. If your first-time shooting take advantage of the test panel by giving a sand prime and shoot to get your settings on the gun and increase your comfort zone.
  21. When I disassemble a new master or wheel cylinder I wipe down all components, inspect them and coat the bores, seals and pistons with the Sil-Glyde before assembling each assembly. The intent is that the silicone grease be a barrier between the parts and the oil/water from direct contact and forming rust. Metal is porous so even small amounts of the silicone grease filling those pores should in theory slow the process of rust starting there.
  22. I assumed some rails would be in the plans to contain the load. Was thinking along the lines of a lawn chair cushion or foam at the bottom of the basket area to help absorb the bumps. Could even have plywood cut for the top of the foam if a firm surface is preferred. Another option would be a suspension system from the rails. Those baby trailers I've seen used suspended seats from the rail systems so the children are floating rather than sitting on the solid surface connected to the axle. That helps soften the ride. Think carrying an apple bouncing around in a bucket verses carrying the apple in a suspended sack.
  23. Ulu, That trailer needs some suspension I think to help the eggs over the bumps but looks like a great start. I made some good buys using CL, FB and Ebaa so I vote used as well. Plenty of folks buy them and after once or twice then they sit in a corner kind of like a treadmill. T120, That is a sweet ride you found. Does it have a generator or battery for the lights?
  24. Both good looking trailers. Sounds like the price was right
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