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About Veemoney

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    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Waukegan IL
  • My Project Cars
    34 Plymouth Coupe, 41 Plymouth Coupe, 47 Dodge Truck, 67 chargers


  • Location
  • Interests
    Old Cars, Motorcycles, Fishing and anything else

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  1. Joecoozie has the right idea, If you have a putty knife it will slip in easily then apply some pressure while turning the nut. you can twist the putty knife with a crescent wrench right next to the stud.
  2. Now that is some cool engine bling. Is it really going on your truck or the VW maybe?
  3. I been in some assembly shops that look like labs where cleanliness is a top priority. A polished vise like that is easy to keep clean. I could see it with some brass jaws and a hammering plate over the top of those areas. Add a lug where it bolts down to a table to attach welding lead and use some fire blanket when welding. Good steel so the polished finish should hold up well though maybe not as good as the finish on a Snap-on wrench it would be overkill for my place.
  4. Looks amazing and still functional for most.
  5. Los, You have a good plan and are making good progress. There is always new discovery when pulling an old car apart that can lead to some unplanned worked but you seem to be keeping it in check. I have multiple projects that I pulled apart or purchased that are still stored in boxes to come back to at a later date. I find each to be learning experience as well as akin to a jigsaw puzzle where you carefully review each piece as you assemble and take some satisfaction throughout assembly and when it is complete.
  6. Not sure if you checked for 5/16 transmission line but that will work and if you have a flare tool you can use your old fittings if they are different. I found Autozone carries this in coils or different lengths and ships as well. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/poly-armour-pvf-steel-brake-fuel-transmission-line-tubing-coil-5-16-x-25-pac-525/16190009-p https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/poly-armour-domestic-pvf-steel-brake-fuel-transmission-line-5-16-x-72-pa-572/22190069-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=22190069-P&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=online&store_code=&ds_rl=1269695&ds_rl=1269728&ds_rl=1274535&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqumV0JuP5AIVkvhkCh1uMQi0EAQYAyABEgLwBfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Jeg's also carries coils in 5/16 https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/63035/10002/-1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqumV0JuP5AIVkvhkCh1uMQi0EAQYBSABEgKihPD_BwE Hope this helps
  7. Even if you get it started you have to be able to drive it safely on the road the 20 miles to get it home. Unless you have the means and sufficient time to check out/rebuild the brakes I would be towing it home
  8. Some equipment like lasers and CNC can act up at temps over 100 and shut down when they reach their threshold, then your done for the day with that equipment. I worked all over and here are some of our lessons learned that we would apply when feasible: Shade and insulate to the extent possible especially on partly cloudy days when temps swings can change quickly. Create small climate controlled areas to work in, you would be amazed at what putting up a circular wall of plastic and a portable air conditioner will do in an opened area. If possible have cool rooms for workers to cool down in after working in high stress heat. 2-3 hrs work to 1-2 hrs cool down depending on temps and work required Cold air displaces hot air as most know that have multi-level homes and can be used to your advantage. And if you can't cool the area then barring ice vest or supplied are suit devices those gel-filed bandanas that you wet down and wear around the neck work like a radiator to cool your blood as it moves past them and are pretty cheap and reusable. As others mentioned adjusting the work schedule to take advantage of cooler night time temps when possible. Have plenty of fluids available with electrolytes to replenish the body at the work area or close by.
  9. My shop stays pretty cool and most think it is air conditioned when they come in. I only run a dehumidifier at times when the humidity gets around 80%. I put in a ceiling at 10ft with 6 inch insulation and have 4x8ft doors in the ceiling I open if I want to vent or move things into the attic to store them.
  10. I guess I will give it a try. You no the saying "use it or loose it"
  11. Looks like the OZ team has a lot of hands on time on the crank so I have to agree Andy.😊 I do alot of cranking Andy..😁 Many of the older motorcycles had the same feature controlled by a wire to the handgrip. My WC has a fast idle knob pull on the dash. Is this to help with the starting? My WC has a fast idle knob pull on the dash. Is this to help with the starting?
  12. Reviewed the article today and thought that's pretty cool but the stance looked wrong. I made a cranking rod for my 47 WC but have not given it a shot yet. https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/classic-cars/87-year-old-still-hand-cranks-the-1927-ford-model-t-hes-owned-for-70-years/ar-AAFbB7P?ocid=spartanntp
  13. Spencer, Thanks for posting the pictures, really nice looking engine compartment that I am sure speaks to the overall quality of the vehicle restoration. "All cylinders between 136 and 153 PSI." seems high as you stated but consider the variance between cylinders could indicate the motor is still fresh after only a bit over 600 miles on the break-in plus the additional miles since you have acquired it leaves me to lean toward it still needs some breaking in to even out the cylinder compression or based on your thoughts it is gummed up or a combination of the two. So my suggestion is to go the route of adding the MMO / Rislone and get a few more tanks of gas through it to see if the extra miles will help to seat the rings on the lower compression cylinders if that is an issue and clear any gummed up rings. I say this thinking if the compression rings are not 100% seated so it is possible the oil rings are not as well. Either way the oil and gas additives should help along with the additional miles of driving. If your still having issues after a few tanks of gas then my next step would be to check the compression again to see if it has improved /changed or next pull the head to look at the bores to see if there are any indications in the cylinders before I would start pulling all the pistons. Just my thoughts, Good Luck
  14. Spencer, I run 20W50 in my L-engine as well with no issues. Your oil pressure is good too. I like the double whammy suggestion for the additives as well. I suggested the compression and vacuum tests to confirm the condition of the rings and guides or identify any problem with a specific cylinder. I agree with Kencombs that dry black soot on the plugs would indicate to rich fuel mixture. You mentioned blue smoke at higher speeds from the tailpipe. Normally I associate blue with oil, black with rich fuel mixture and white with coolant.
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