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Veemoney

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Veemoney last won the day on April 21 2022

Veemoney had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Waukegan IL
  • My Project Cars
    1934 Plymouth Coupe, 1941 Plymouth Coupe, 1947 Dodge WC Truck, 1967 chargers

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  • Location
    IL
  • Interests
    Old Cars, Motorcycles, Fishing and anything else

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  1. I recently purchased a quart of DOT 5 from O'Reilly Auto parts about 2 weeks ago. Motor Medic brand and price was best deal I found at the time, $32.99 plus tax if anyone is looking. 2 years ago I picked up some from Napa when they had a 50% off deal. Always good to go online and check for the best prices.
  2. Ivan, I don't believe it was a body off restoration to factory specifications either and there is plenty I could pick apart on it as well. People can ask whatever price they want hoping to get well over what something is worth to you or me. I just enjoyed it for the opportunity to view all the pictures, liked the color, the interior and body lines on the 41 body of the 3-window coupe, and it shows them nicely IMO. It was free to look at with no crowds or admission fee so I posted it up for the pictures and nothing more. 🙂
  3. While looking for parts I came across this 41 for sale and although the price is hefty it is sure to provide a smile if you review all the pictures. Located in Madison, Wis. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1089643392246974/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Ae30f4c01-468e-423f-b7d2-f45c964fa81e
  4. Mike, To answer the question you had concerning O-rings and I will include the seals used in the brake system on your car as well. They should work fine with the DOT 5 fluid, and I do not believe they are the cause of your problem. If they were leaking though, you would see the oil at the bottom of the master cylinder or on one or more of the wheels and you should confirm those areas are dry. The brake major and minor adjustment at each wheel could be your issue if they were not correctly adjusted after the replacement of the master and wheel cylinders if not set correctly. You mentioned you put new master and wheel cylinders on but no mention of new brake pads so I will assume they are used and worn to the drum radius if not the arch could factor i to stopping performance but not the pedal pressure issue. There is plenty of information on this site in the technical area for correctly adjusting the pads and that is where I would start after confirming no brake fluid leakage. I like to adjust each wheel with a slight drag, I use the DOT 5 fluid and my truck can lock the brakes up if needed.
  5. I switched from glycols and I'm running the DOT 5 fluid in my 34 coupe with disc front and drum rear as well as my 47 WC with stock drums and master. I have a solid high firm pedal in both. May be just me but I think one of the keys is to limit as much agitation to the fluid when bleeding as possible to reduce air entrapment. No shaking the bottle or actuating the master during bleeding any more than needed. I use a generic power bleeder similar to the Motive unit Sniper refers too. Not sure how much it helps but seems to work for me. I fill the power bleeder the night before to allow the fluid to settle in the bleeder reservoir. Hook the power bleed system up and pump up to 5-7psi (lower PSI than the power bleeder instructions identify to use) Open the power bleeder valve and check for leaks in the vehicle brake system or the hook-up and fix or move forward. I slowly push the brake pedal down and hold for a few seconds and then slowly allow it to return. Open each wheel cylinder 1 at a time as you would normally to allow the air to escape. The next morning after allowing the fluid to settle I repeat the process to remove any remaining air that may have been entrapped and settled.
  6. Los, My gauge needle wanders slightly more so in my 47 than in my other cars but barely noticeable. I don't notice it at all until the tank gets below the 1/2 way mark which is when the slosh I would expect becomes more developed. I also have the old-style gauge and sender that may have a slower response then the newer style but that is just a thought on it so my set-up might not be a good comparison. I say that because when I start my truck the gauge doesn't start moving right away, has a slight delay and then very slowly moves up to register the fuel level. Should work either way you choose as most tanks I've come across don't have the basket like your does. I swept pine needles out from the bed of my truck, took it for the first ride this year and have it jacked up in the driveway to do the yearly adjustment of the brakes. You seem to be making some steady progress and should be rid of that gas can feeding your carb soon enough to do a spring road test.
  7. Los. My 47 doesn't have the basket in the stock tank but I believe it is an upgrade to help keep the fuel gauge needle more stable when gas in the tank is sloshing around as you are driving If I had to guess. That would mean they want the rod adjusted in the pivot point to fit in the basket and the other end trimmed off to clear. That is if it adjusts in the pivot with a set screw. I usually recommend an extra ground wire from one of the sending unit to tank mounting screws to the frame in addition to the tank to frame ground strap.
  8. Sometimes life throws you a hint to slow down, sometimes it's more than a hint.
  9. Picture is worth a thousand words. I have 2 of these in the shop waiting for paint?. Glad you got it figured out. Skrambler may need another for his collection or give you an idea of value.
  10. 2 things I can add that help me: When using heat my objective is to first heat the head around the hole and try to keep the heat off the remnant so the threaded hole in the head increases in diameter with the remnant staying as cool and close to normal size as possible. To me putting the heat on the remnant just increases its size quickly before the head warms up. In the video I believe his attempts focused the heat on the remnant which swells it in the hole at first. As Dave72dt mentions I also like to shoulder a twist style extractor to limit the amount it can swell up the remnant so it locks. You can use a nut or piece of pipe to put on the extractor prior to inserting the extractor in the remnant. The metal used in most sparkplugs is fairly soft and will deform easily in my experience.
  11. I attached a PDF doc with screen shots of how I do it. First screen shot shows adding the Words "Rear Main Seal Replacement" to the word search box Also shows using the pull down next to your input words to select "Topics" to limit the search to topics and not the default "everywhere". You have to initiate the search using the magnifying glass symbol before you can get to the advanced options shown on the second screenshot. Second screenshot shows the "More search options" tab directly below the "Search Again" box. when you select "More search options you should see the third screenshot with more options. Third screenshot shows the following I choose: Topics Content titles and Body All of my search term words Hit the search content bottom at the bottom of the page That will provide topics you are looking for. Hope this helps How I Search PD15-24.pdf
  12. It is important to understand which gauge you have to correctly hook it up. The link below should help and is one of the many on this subject that can be found by doing a search on this site. Using the search box at the top right corner of the page and then I usually go to advanced search and check the topics box to narrow the search to topics that deal with the subject I'm searching. Hope this helps.
  13. Your oil pressure and cylinder PSI check was decent and considering the throttle was not open as you said it is likely better. Are you thinking of rebuilding the motor or just milling the head? Just me thinking out loud.
  14. Oh yes, there will be pain. Just grin and bear it, but don't go quietly into the night.
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