ratfinkxxx Posted August 17, 2021 Report Posted August 17, 2021 I have seen a pic and part number on the forum to adapt the stock differential to use a modern u joint. I believe it was Dana-Spicer. Thought I had saved it but danged if I can find it. Thanks in advance. Terry Quote
rallyace Posted August 17, 2021 Report Posted August 17, 2021 I had a truck driveline shop build a new driveshaft with Spicer U-joints for my P-23 Cambridge. It cost me $300 and took care of all of my problems with driveline vibration and eliminated those troublesome rubber boots that are difficult to install. You may want to look into this as a solution to your issues. Quote
greg g Posted August 17, 2021 Report Posted August 17, 2021 If your drive shaft is in decent condition, you might want to flip it end to end. This may place the balls in a slightly less worn position within the trunions. The home position tends to wear more which can increase clearance which leads to noise and vibration. Flipping may cause the balls to have a new home within less worn places. If you try this, make some reference marks with a tire crayon or similar so it can be put back in position if you feel no difference. Also, leaving it in place end for and, but rotating it in the flanges 180 degrees can help too. Again witness marks to return to original position are recommended. Also this is in reference to drive shafts with ball and trunion u joints on both ends of the drive shaft. Some driveshafts on early 46 dodge and Plymouth had a ball and trunion at the transmission end and a cross and ball ujoint on the differential end. Those joints are fairly easy to replace but kind of difficult to find. Quote
desoto1939 Posted August 17, 2021 Report Posted August 17, 2021 If anyone is looking to purchase the pin and trunnion u joints with the rebuild kits and the housing i have several and they come with the leather covering. I have these for my 39 desoto but would also be the same for the other cars. I also have the body for the 46 Dodge as a separate unit. Contact Rich Hartung and let me know what year car or truck that you have. I will quote you a fair price on these units. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote
maddmaxx1949 Posted August 17, 2021 Report Posted August 17, 2021 I have a note in here on what I used with pictures as well. 2-2-349 and ran me about 50$ a piece. Quote
ratfinkxxx Posted August 17, 2021 Author Report Posted August 17, 2021 Thanks Sniper. Again. You truly are a Zen Master. Quote
ratfinkxxx Posted August 17, 2021 Author Report Posted August 17, 2021 Thank you to all who responded. Quote
RobertKB Posted August 17, 2021 Report Posted August 17, 2021 These are the factory u-joints I have on both ends of my driveshaft on my 1948 Canadian Dodge D25 club coupe. Both my 1951 Dodge and 1953 Plymouth have the Detroit joint with rubber boots. I am presently taking the drive train out of my 1947 Dodge D25 four door parts car. It has the same u-joints as my other D25. Tranny and differential have different yokes than cars with with the ball and trunnion. Quote
martybose Posted August 17, 2021 Report Posted August 17, 2021 20 years or more ago I ran across an eBay ad for a factory conversion kit that MoPar evidently offered back in the day. It consisted of a new driveshaft with U-joints on both ends and a splined section for the length movement, and the adapters for both transmission and differential. They bolted right up in my 47 Plymouth and the driveshaft was the correct length. I've never seen another one, but it was sure a nice setup. Marty 1 Quote
desoto1939 Posted August 17, 2021 Report Posted August 17, 2021 Marty: You are correct. There was a company called Almetal they made complete drive shaft changeovers for Chr, Des, dodge, Ply and 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks the units wee made for 1937-1942 model years. I have the Almetal catalog and it shows a picture with a slip joint and the flanges on the ends to mount up directly to the original transa nd differental ends. There are driveshaft companies that are making these modern shafts with the modern Spicer Cross U joints that are also to be lubricated without taking the old pin and trunnion apart. I can send a copy of the page to anyone that would like a copy Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 18, 2021 Report Posted August 18, 2021 I have purchased driveshaft components from NORTHER DRIVETRAIN......you will however need to know what it is you are wanting to fabricate. Good prices....good service. Like all things...shipping was a bit costly but that was due mainly to the new tube had to be be shipped separately. This kindly timely as I have called and scheduled tomorrow for the trip to the shop for assembly weld and balance. Quote
Dartgame Posted August 18, 2021 Report Posted August 18, 2021 I got my driveshaft made at a local shop - they knew immediately what needed to be done - I measured the trans flange to axle companion flange length and they made me a new shaft with the spicer u joints. Not cheap, but the best option since I was installing an overdrive which has a longer tail section than the shorty trans used on business coupes and needed a shorter shaft anyway. Quote
greg g Posted August 18, 2021 Report Posted August 18, 2021 (edited) I installed an r10 od with no need to modify the drive shaft length. Just wondering why the change was necessary on your car? My 46 business coupe was never intended for an od and it went right in. What is the wheelbase of your car. Edited August 18, 2021 by greg g Quote
Young Ed Posted August 18, 2021 Report Posted August 18, 2021 2 hours ago, greg g said: I installed an r10 od with no need to modify the drive shaft length. Just wondering why the change was necessary on your car? My 46 business coupe was never intended for an od and it went right in. What is the wheelbase of your car. 49-52 plymouths have a shorter wheelbase for the steel wagon business coupe and fastback models compared to the other models. The transmissions for those short wheel base cars doesn't have a tail shaft like the longer cars. Now why they shortened the trans rather than the driveshaft I don't know.... Quote
belvedere666 Posted February 8, 2022 Report Posted February 8, 2022 On 8/17/2021 at 8:52 AM, maddmaxx1949 said: I have a note in here on what I used with pictures as well. 2-2-349 and ran me about 50$ a piece. Did this 2-2-349 bolt to the transmission side? I’m going to have a driveshaft made with a ford Ranger rear end on one end and a stock trans on the other but I know they make it for me with a ball and trunnion on the trans side. Quote
Bryan Posted February 8, 2022 Report Posted February 8, 2022 The 2-2-349 I bought fit on mine at the front. I have a Fluid Drive 3 speed with the trunnion on both ends. I would measure the spacing on the bolts. It's a rectangular pattern and then a measurement of the circular diameter (diagonally measured). On mine rectangular bolt spacing is 2 - 3/16" (2.1875) by 1 - 13/16" (1.84). Diagonal bolt spacing is 2 7/8" (2.875). Watch with the other parts. My driveshaft is 2.5" diameter, but I'm changing to 3". From what I'm reading driveshaft places determine the driveshaft diameter by overall length of shaft and horsepower of the motor. More HP and length requires wider shaft. Quote
48ply1stcar Posted February 11, 2022 Report Posted February 11, 2022 On 8/17/2021 at 9:46 AM, ratfinkxxx said: I have seen a pic and part number on the forum to adapt the stock differential to use a modern u joint. I believe it was Dana-Spicer. Thought I had saved it but danged if I can find it. Thanks in advance. Terry Here you go, This was used this to connect the transmission to the new drive shaft. Quote
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