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48ply1stcar

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Everything posted by 48ply1stcar

  1. 48ply1stcar
    You are probably right. Thanks Ken. I saw it after it ran for a while, so cooking it "Would"? make it thick and oily?
  2. 48ply1stcar
    I had the same thing after I had a engine rebuilt. I looked every where for a leak, a oil trail nothing. I attached my post from here the solution was not the solution. I was at a car show at my church and my rebuilder walked by. I showed him the oil in my plug well. He ah just put some "Stop Leak" in there. That was four or five years ago the oil leak went away. Until that time I was firmly against additives like that.
  3. 48ply1stcar
    Did anyone ask if the gauge worked? If it doesn't work, doesn't need to ne replaced anyway.
  4. 48ply1stcar
    I bought rear leaf springs from Andy Bernbaum, and saved a lot of money by using Ford Aerostar front coil spring. My car sits level and as high as the spec sheet says. I guess it could be lower front and back, but I have other problems to solve.
  5. 48ply1stcar
    Have you replaced the coil. I've spent way to much time chasing problems when it's the coil. Don't forget you get 6 volts with 4 D size batteries. It's the AMPS man.
  6. 48ply1stcar
    I bench bled my 48 in the car with the floor removed. I was installing front disc brakes and needed to bench bled before I was able to bled the front brakes. I removed the brake lines inserted brass plugs and slowly filled the master cylinder letting the air to escape.
  7. 48ply1stcar
    Restoring costs a lot of money, fix it. anyway you want. I have my first car and it sat for 27 years while I was in the Army. I've seen Dakota front frame welded to P15 frames because one slips into the other. Then you have a 318 in your car 12 volt and air. I have a 2000 Cherokee rear end and disc brakes as of April 2020 on my high school car and left it 6 volt. make it a sleeper and make it safe, and a daily driver the options are endless and you're on the prefect site to learn.
  8. 48ply1stcar
    About 9 years ago I put a 230 in my 48, I just re-plumed the oil pick-up I probably used the 218 plumping. I think this is page 3 of the thread, if not there is a cluster of piures of the oil pick-up.
  9. 48ply1stcar
    It's the easiest thing a trained professional can do or I can watch. the axle shaft housing was only 1/4 wider so the the new u-bolts were able to fit the spring perch. Here's a lint the the thread I started and the solution is what I had done - sorry for the delay. I had a 3:55 but it didn't seem to be much of a difference. so the next higher might make more of a difference, I stayed with a drum and and installed front disc. best thing I've done and have had done in the 54 years of ownership. It's my high school car.
  10. 48ply1stcar
    I had a 2000 Cherokee rear end installed in my 48 Plymouth, drive shaft built. Under 1500.
  11. 48ply1stcar
    these links to my install my give you some ideas. I installed my WLS headliner. I had no experience and I think did ok.
  12. 48ply1stcar
    Are your brakes the same as the P15, with a cylinder per shoe. if so and you want to enjoy the ride go disc. I went with a scarebird kit, although I se they don't include the hubs. get a kit with hubs and you'll never regret it. My mother bought me my car for $75 in 1968 and I stalled the disc in the spring of 2020. I'm still using the stock master cylinder without the residual valve. eventually I'll put a residual valve front and back 2 and 10 pound.
  13. 48ply1stcar
    Mikec - I have my 48 Plymouth from High School. two years ago I had a 2000 Dakota rear installed and I installed front disc brakes. I have a rebuilt 230 block, I've kept it 6 volt positive ground. Nice to drive but I need a front shock relocation done, so I don't boat around the corners.
  14. 48ply1stcar
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  15. 48ply1stcar
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  16. 48ply1stcar
    This morning I just started over. Removed the distributor, reset the points, reinstalled distributor. removed the top of the carburetor checked the float height, and needle valve. The timing is about 4 degrees BTDC. I guess I could play with some more but I'm leaving set like this and take for a ride later. I tried to insert video, dwell 35, 600 rpm, started right up.
  17. 48ply1stcar
    I haven't read every word of every comment, I did replaced the coil yesterday, (Ya know the coil that is in the electrical system.) So on Tuesday a removed the distributor and installed the condenser. The engine started like a charm, but then I've never had any starting problems. I also adjusted the float because the carb was leaking gas and I thought the fuel was to high in the float bowl. After installing the Coil, I thought I should check the timing well the dwell was way off and well and the timing and the fuel was pouring out of the carb. I haven't talked myself into going back to the car. I checked whatever that valve is called that lets in the gas and blew into it backwards and the air didn't pass though.
  18. 48ply1stcar
    I just went back in my attachments and realized that It's been six years since that tune-up so I ordered a condenser and coil. Thanks for your comments and reminders. I removed the distributor yesterday and installed the prior condenser. After I had a 230 block rebuilt I installed all new electric parts. The car starts like a champ always has, it just drives me crazy when the car or anything mechanical just stops working when it was fine a hour earlier. So I'll install a new coil today and I'm pretty sure that's my issue.
  19. 48ply1stcar
    I really don't know. Lately my car has started to sputter and die around a mile of driving. I just put in a used condenser after getting feedback from a couple of Facebook sites. I've had the car 54 years maybe I should just keeping throwing parts on it like I've done in the past.
  20. 48ply1stcar
    I did my Scarebird installation installation in March of 2020. I guess I can stop bragging about the kit now.
  21. 48ply1stcar
    Easy off easy on with impact wrench. Now to remove the key to put some washers on to use the pully.
  22. 48ply1stcar
    Mr. Adams I posted a video on the P15-D24 facebook page it's really loose.
  23. 48ply1stcar
    I had to delete the video because I couldn't attach it without a google ad. Posted video on P15-D24 FaceBook page.
  24. 48ply1stcar
    The clicking sound was get louder so I removed the fan and discovered that the pully was lose but the nut was still firm. Should I be able to tighten this down. also a few years ago I replaced my 218 with a 230 and am using a narrow belt I was thinking of using the pully from the 12 volt generator. I had the 230 rebuilt and transferred everything from the 218 block to the 230 block.
  25. 48ply1stcar
    Here you go, This was used this to connect the transmission to the new drive shaft.
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